Swap to a RB20DET
#16
if you use the -uh- mounts the motors does not hit the hood or the tunnel. everything just bolts rite in.
and the wiring is less complicated than a SR20....yes you heard me correctly. it is easier.
on another note the rb25 wiring is alot harder but a rb20s13 wiring is a cakewalk. i did mine in little over a hour.
and the wiring is less complicated than a SR20....yes you heard me correctly. it is easier.
on another note the rb25 wiring is alot harder but a rb20s13 wiring is a cakewalk. i did mine in little over a hour.
Last edited by SHIFT_Lock; 07-22-2003 at 11:27 AM.
#17
OK SO..the RB25 is a little more expensive for the full clip..no problem i can deal with that.
The RB25 is easier to wire up and with the stock R33 x-member and tranny member, it should bolt down with no problem.
BUT..and a big but.. parts are harder to come by, and are more expensive.
and i think for that reason only i will go with the SR over RB, im not looking for 400hp, i want a fun every day driven car, 260-300hp and the SR is more than willing.
i also was informed of a "Showa Salvege" yard in Japan that supplies engines and tests them.
The RB25 is easier to wire up and with the stock R33 x-member and tranny member, it should bolt down with no problem.
BUT..and a big but.. parts are harder to come by, and are more expensive.
and i think for that reason only i will go with the SR over RB, im not looking for 400hp, i want a fun every day driven car, 260-300hp and the SR is more than willing.
i also was informed of a "Showa Salvege" yard in Japan that supplies engines and tests them.
#18
SHIFT...did I read correctly that the -UH- mounts will also move the engine closer to the firewall, thus allowing more room for cooling and helping with the car's weight characteristics?
Given the -UH- (or other) mounts, and price of the RB20, I am still confused why someone would pick the SR20DET over the RB20DET. Anyone wanna help a noob out here?
Given the -UH- (or other) mounts, and price of the RB20, I am still confused why someone would pick the SR20DET over the RB20DET. Anyone wanna help a noob out here?
#19
Originally posted by DC2R Munky
SHIFT...did I read correctly that the -UH- mounts will also move the engine closer to the firewall, thus allowing more room for cooling and helping with the car's weight characteristics?
Given the -UH- (or other) mounts, and price of the RB20, I am still confused why someone would pick the SR20DET over the RB20DET. Anyone wanna help a noob out here?
SHIFT...did I read correctly that the -UH- mounts will also move the engine closer to the firewall, thus allowing more room for cooling and helping with the car's weight characteristics?
Given the -UH- (or other) mounts, and price of the RB20, I am still confused why someone would pick the SR20DET over the RB20DET. Anyone wanna help a noob out here?
#22
Originally posted by SHIFT_Lock
and doba reread my post i said the 25 wiring was harder...
DO you UNDERSTAND THE WORDS THAT ARE COMIN OUTA MY MOUTH>>>chris tucker is funny as shiat.
and doba reread my post i said the 25 wiring was harder...
DO you UNDERSTAND THE WORDS THAT ARE COMIN OUTA MY MOUTH>>>chris tucker is funny as shiat.
#23
Good lord, the RB20 swap is IMO easier than the SR20, quicker, looks and sounds more impressive, and is just plain better. The RB is better than the SR for the cast block, run too much boost nothing more than a blown headgasket and maybe turbo(trust me I know). Run too much in the SR, oops melted a piston. SR is a good motor for the FWD DET's and thats about all I can come up with. The wiring didn't take me more than 2 hours on mine with figuring everything out and tracing wires. Very easy swap.
#24
Originally posted by Nismo241
Good lord, the RB20 swap is IMO easier than the SR20, quicker, looks and sounds more impressive, and is just plain better. The RB is better than the SR for the cast block, run too much boost nothing more than a blown headgasket and maybe turbo(trust me I know). Run too much in the SR, oops melted a piston. SR is a good motor for the FWD DET's and thats about all I can come up with. The wiring didn't take me more than 2 hours on mine with figuring everything out and tracing wires. Very easy swap.
Good lord, the RB20 swap is IMO easier than the SR20, quicker, looks and sounds more impressive, and is just plain better. The RB is better than the SR for the cast block, run too much boost nothing more than a blown headgasket and maybe turbo(trust me I know). Run too much in the SR, oops melted a piston. SR is a good motor for the FWD DET's and thats about all I can come up with. The wiring didn't take me more than 2 hours on mine with figuring everything out and tracing wires. Very easy swap.
The RB20 does it require custom brackets for mounting into an S13? what did you use?
Thanks
#26
Originally posted by Doba's240
dude!! sounds like a hell of a setup you got going, the only thing with the RB is that they say parts are hard to get, NOW, do they mean replaceable parts for something that you have blown OR upgradeable parts? or both.
The RB20 does it require custom brackets for mounting into an S13? what did you use?
Thanks
dude!! sounds like a hell of a setup you got going, the only thing with the RB is that they say parts are hard to get, NOW, do they mean replaceable parts for something that you have blown OR upgradeable parts? or both.
The RB20 does it require custom brackets for mounting into an S13? what did you use?
Thanks
#27
sounds like the RB20 is the engine to go with.
Im not planning to run too much boost, this is actually my every day car, im just trying to make it more fun, so id be happy with 250hp for now.
what kind of gas mileage do you get from your RB?
compared to KA?
Im not planning to run too much boost, this is actually my every day car, im just trying to make it more fun, so id be happy with 250hp for now.
what kind of gas mileage do you get from your RB?
compared to KA?
#29
Gas mileage is awesome. When I drove to seattle from here, which is about 280 miles or so, I left with almost a full tank, and when I filled up on the way home, about 30 mies south of seattle, it only took 8 gallons out of the 15 gallon tank. My set up has changed a little. I blew the turbo and headgasket about a month and a half ago. I thought at first it was just the turbo due to obvious signs(oil seeping out of the wastegate lever) so i just bought a new turbo, I put a T3 from a Z31 300zx on it and it was still smoking. So now I'm pulling the head to make sure that the gasket is blown and not just another bad turbo. Parts aren't hard to find, just search some aussie websites, but getting them here is a task.
#30
Originally posted by Nismo241
Gas mileage is awesome. When I drove to seattle from here, which is about 280 miles or so, I left with almost a full tank, and when I filled up on the way home, about 30 mies south of seattle, it only took 8 gallons out of the 15 gallon tank. My set up has changed a little. I blew the turbo and headgasket about a month and a half ago. I thought at first it was just the turbo due to obvious signs(oil seeping out of the wastegate lever) so i just bought a new turbo, I put a T3 from a Z31 300zx on it and it was still smoking. So now I'm pulling the head to make sure that the gasket is blown and not just another bad turbo. Parts aren't hard to find, just search some aussie websites, but getting them here is a task.
Gas mileage is awesome. When I drove to seattle from here, which is about 280 miles or so, I left with almost a full tank, and when I filled up on the way home, about 30 mies south of seattle, it only took 8 gallons out of the 15 gallon tank. My set up has changed a little. I blew the turbo and headgasket about a month and a half ago. I thought at first it was just the turbo due to obvious signs(oil seeping out of the wastegate lever) so i just bought a new turbo, I put a T3 from a Z31 300zx on it and it was still smoking. So now I'm pulling the head to make sure that the gasket is blown and not just another bad turbo. Parts aren't hard to find, just search some aussie websites, but getting them here is a task.