jsp

Hello:
I am new to this forum. I joined because my new SO has a 240sx. I like it a lot and hate to see her ripped off by the dealer everytime she needs something fixed. Anyway, she went on a long trip and I am taking the opportunity to fix a few things. The brake fluid light came on and I noticed that the front pads have only 0.125" left and the rotors are worn down to 0.76" thickness. Rear pads and rotors are OK. Since I have it apart, I am biased towards replacing the pads and rotors.


Should I replace these with parts from the dealer or are after-market Kragen/Pep boy parts OK?


I will also bleed the brake system (no ABS). Is Castrol LMA (dot4) OK or is there a preferred fluid to use with Nissan?

Are the caliper and support bracket bolts one-time use?
What is the correct torque for both types?



All three engine drive belts are cracked. Should I go with dealer or after-market parts?



Last but not least, the engine temperature gauge has not worked for over a year. I guessed it uses the single terminal sensor threaded into the coolant flange that is part of the intake manifold casting. I could not get the gauge to move up from very cold not matter what I did. The single terminal sensor measures 190 Ohms with a luke warm engine. The wire connected to the sensor has 12V on it when disconnected and about 8V connected to the sensor (190 Ohms). I can also draw 125 mA shorting this wire to ground, but the gauge doesn't move!

Am I working with the correct sensor?
Is gauge failure common?

It is right next to another temperature sensor that has two terminals. I am guessing that the two terminal sensor is for the ECM to use.


Thanks in advance. Nice car and nice forum.

John

1982 Toyota PUT
2002 Z06

Just sold 1974 2002 Tii and 1984 318i with 6cyl M3 engine transplant.

nishioSX

about your brakes... take it a shop that can resurface rotors. ask them if its ok to continue to use them. either way, you should change the pads. brakes are not something you want to cut corners on...they save your life. you should replace them with OEM parts. yes, they are expensive, but you get what you pay for.
Castrol LMA (dot4) should be fine for your fliud. but if your not sure always look at your FSM or call up nissan.


"Are the caliper and support bracket bolts one-time use? "
>no, your still able to use them. im not sure on the toque specs though...im sure someone on here can help you.

"All three engine drive belts are cracked. Should I go with dealer or after-market parts?"
>its your preference on what you buy..but like i said, OEM is the way to go for a tune-up.


and on your temp sensor.... dont really know...never had that fail on me.


hope this helps.
aarOn--->

jsp

nishioSX:
Thanks for the reply. I went to the local parts place and checked on getting rotors resurfaced. Good call on you part. I got some more answers about torques and minimum pad/rotor thickness. I will list it all here in case someone else needs it.

Source Chilton 82-92 stanza/200sx/240sx:

for 1989 240sx
Brake disc min thickness- 0.709"
front and rear min pad thickness- 0.079"


Torques (ft-lbs)
Brake hose to caliper - 12-14
Caliper retaining bolts -16-23
Caliper torque member(AKA retaining bracket) - 53-72
Wheel lug nuts - 72-87

I also got some prices to use in the decision making process:

Front rotors
dealer list $95 each (same as the Z06!!)
dealer discounted price $69 each
Kragen list each $27
Kragen turning each $10 took 0.007" off each face.

Front Pad set of 4
Dealer discounted price $49

Hardware kit (unknown contents but includes antil squeal shims) $31 dealer discounted.

The three belts dealer discounted $7.45 each.


The gauge problem is still a mystery. The Chilton book is worthless for any serious electrical troubleshooting. The schematics are not anywhere near complete. I'm glad I could check it out from the library. Not recommended.


For brake bleeding I'm gonna try my new toy. It is a pressurized canister that connects to the top of the fluid reservoir. Fill it with fluid, hook it up, check for air bubbles, and pump it up to 15 psi or so. Then all I have to do is go under the car and bleed. No pedal pumping assistance is needed. I hope it works.

Cheers,
JSP

nishioSX

cool!...

you should try and pull your gauge cluster out and see whats happening behind there....and check both sensors and their wires.


aarOn>