89 240sx engine belt replacement procedure- LONG
02-01-2004, 01:15 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 14
89 240sx engine belt replacement procedure- LONG
1989 240sx belt replacement
I just finished replacing the belts so I thought I would write up the procedure and pass along some tips that will save time.
First you need to get the belts:
They are listed here from front to back:
Belt #1 A195M-40FSMVW power steering
Belt #2 A172M-40FSMVW water pump alternator
Belt #3 A192M-16VSMVW AC compressor
The discounted dealer price for each belt is $7.49.
Next you need to gather the tools you will need:
12 and 14 mm sockets
assorted socket drive extensions
Large screwdriver that enjoys abuse. (referred to in text as BFS)
Hammer to abuse BFS
WD 40 with red plastic extension
Beer. To be administered after completion of each milestone.
Jack stands
Now to dig in:
Please note that the difficulty of this project will depend on your climate. I live in California and do not have much problem with rust. If you live in a nasty climate, you will have to do much more work with WD-40, blowtorches, and swearing to get the bolts loose. You will also need to increase the frequency of beer breaks. I also encourage you to replace the tensioner bolts with ones made of stainless steel and liberally coat the threads with grease. This is why I no longer live in Wisconsin.
The car must be jacked up to work on belt#3. It also reduces back strain to elevate the car while working on the other 2 belts.
It is also efficient to work on the front brakes at the same time.
Use jack stands on each side rail to support the car safely. Do not use a hydraulic jack to hold the car up while working underneath it. Consult the owners manual or repair manual if you are not sure about the location of the jacking points. Check the stability of the jack stands after relieving pressure on the hydraulic jack. Make sure someone else knows you are working under the car. Ask them to check on you periodically or remain close by in case something bad happens.
Belt #1 is the easiest to loosen and remove. Use the 12mm socket to loosen the Idler pulley tensioner bolt. Turn the bolt out until a large gap between the bolt head and the bracket it tightens against is achieved. Next apply the WD-40 to the area between the bolts threaded boss and the slot in the bracket. This area traps water causing the threaded boss and the bracket to rust together. We’ll continue working on Belt #1 after the WD-40 has had time to soak in.
Belt #2 is a little trickier. There are two 12 mm bolts to loosen. The first points towards the front of the car. Use the socket wrench to loosen it. The other bolt is side-mounted bolt just like the bolt you loosened to remove Belt #1. You will need to come up with a combination of socket extensions that gets the socket on this bolt and places the socket wrench handle between the battery and the large hoses that are in the way. Loosen this bolt just like the one for Belt #1. Apply the WD-40 and let it soak in.
The tensioner bolt for Belt #3 is accessed through a hole in the bottom engine cover. Use a 14mm socket and extension to loosen this bolt. Apply WD-40 as you did with the other belts.
Now that the WD-40 has had time to work, you can relieve belt tension and remove the belts:
Start with belt #1. Pound on the bolt head with the hammer. It should move in as the tensioner pulley relieves tension on the belt. You may have to use the socket wrench to loosen the bolt further in order to get the belt off. Remove the belt when enough tension is relieved.
Belt #2 is similar except that you cannot directly apply the hammer to the bolt head. This is where BFS comes in. Place the blade of BFS on the threaded boss. Abuse BFS with the hammer thus voiding your Craftsman lifetime warranty and relieving tension on Belt #2 at the same time. IMPORTANT – Do not locate the blade of BFS so that it chews up the bolt threads as you pound on it. You may have to use the wrench to further loosen the bolt until you can remove the belt.
The Belt #3 tensioner is also mounted in such a way to prevent direct application of the hammer. Make sure you have a large gap between the bolt and the bracket. Remove the socket wrench for the extension and pound on the end of the extension with the hammer. Eventually you will have to remove the socket and use the extension alone to pound the bolt in. Belt #3 is the most difficult. You will have to pound the tensioner in to the end of its travel. You will also have more problems with rust because it is close to the road.
Time for a BEER!!
Now to install the new belts:
Belt #3 is by far the tightest. Make sure you have the tensioner pounded in to the end of its travel. If you are lucky you will have no difficulty with #3 and you can skip the belt preparation step I had to go through.
To prepare the belt, let it soak in a pan of warm water for a few minutes. Warm water will soften the rubber slightly. Water on the belt will make it slip and greatly aid in installation.
Thread the belt completely on the inside race of the crank pulley as well as the tensioner pulley. Next, get it threaded around the AC pulley as much as possible. Stand at the side of the car and rotate the AC pulley towards the engine. The wet belt will slip on the crank pulley enough to allow it to finish threading itself onto the AC pulley as you turn the pulley. The water will eventually evaporate and no longer cause belt slipping.
Turn the tensioner bolt until Belt #3 has correct tension. You will notice that the tensioner does not go back to its original position. Belts stretch as they age and you will periodically have to adjust the belt tension.
Belt #3 is a *****. Time for a BEER!!
Belts #2 and #1 are easy. Starting with belt #2 just thread them around the fan blade and onto the pulleys. Tighten the tensioners and you are done. IMPORTANT Do not forget to tighten the second tensioner bolt for belt #2.
Place the car in neutral and the clutch pedal down or park if an automatic. Start the car and check the correct operation of the AC as listen for noise form the rotating belts. Yeah you guessed it, there shouldn’t be any noise.
Put the car down. The job is finished time for a BEER!!!
Here is some information from the factory repair manual:
New belt deflection with 22 lb of force
Belt #1 power steering deflection 0.28-0.31 inches
Belt #2 alternator/water pump deflection 0.24 –0.28 inches
Belt #3 AC compressor deflection 0.24 – 0.28 inches.
The factory manual is confusing on the subject of tensioner bolt torque.
Bolts for belt #3 and #1 are 20-26 ft-lb.
The bolt for belt #2 is 12-15 ft-lb. I guess that is for both bolts.
JSP
I just finished replacing the belts so I thought I would write up the procedure and pass along some tips that will save time.
First you need to get the belts:
They are listed here from front to back:
Belt #1 A195M-40FSMVW power steering
Belt #2 A172M-40FSMVW water pump alternator
Belt #3 A192M-16VSMVW AC compressor
The discounted dealer price for each belt is $7.49.
Next you need to gather the tools you will need:
12 and 14 mm sockets
assorted socket drive extensions
Large screwdriver that enjoys abuse. (referred to in text as BFS)
Hammer to abuse BFS
WD 40 with red plastic extension
Beer. To be administered after completion of each milestone.
Jack stands
Now to dig in:
Please note that the difficulty of this project will depend on your climate. I live in California and do not have much problem with rust. If you live in a nasty climate, you will have to do much more work with WD-40, blowtorches, and swearing to get the bolts loose. You will also need to increase the frequency of beer breaks. I also encourage you to replace the tensioner bolts with ones made of stainless steel and liberally coat the threads with grease. This is why I no longer live in Wisconsin.
The car must be jacked up to work on belt#3. It also reduces back strain to elevate the car while working on the other 2 belts.
It is also efficient to work on the front brakes at the same time.
Use jack stands on each side rail to support the car safely. Do not use a hydraulic jack to hold the car up while working underneath it. Consult the owners manual or repair manual if you are not sure about the location of the jacking points. Check the stability of the jack stands after relieving pressure on the hydraulic jack. Make sure someone else knows you are working under the car. Ask them to check on you periodically or remain close by in case something bad happens.
Belt #1 is the easiest to loosen and remove. Use the 12mm socket to loosen the Idler pulley tensioner bolt. Turn the bolt out until a large gap between the bolt head and the bracket it tightens against is achieved. Next apply the WD-40 to the area between the bolts threaded boss and the slot in the bracket. This area traps water causing the threaded boss and the bracket to rust together. We’ll continue working on Belt #1 after the WD-40 has had time to soak in.
Belt #2 is a little trickier. There are two 12 mm bolts to loosen. The first points towards the front of the car. Use the socket wrench to loosen it. The other bolt is side-mounted bolt just like the bolt you loosened to remove Belt #1. You will need to come up with a combination of socket extensions that gets the socket on this bolt and places the socket wrench handle between the battery and the large hoses that are in the way. Loosen this bolt just like the one for Belt #1. Apply the WD-40 and let it soak in.
The tensioner bolt for Belt #3 is accessed through a hole in the bottom engine cover. Use a 14mm socket and extension to loosen this bolt. Apply WD-40 as you did with the other belts.
Now that the WD-40 has had time to work, you can relieve belt tension and remove the belts:
Start with belt #1. Pound on the bolt head with the hammer. It should move in as the tensioner pulley relieves tension on the belt. You may have to use the socket wrench to loosen the bolt further in order to get the belt off. Remove the belt when enough tension is relieved.
Belt #2 is similar except that you cannot directly apply the hammer to the bolt head. This is where BFS comes in. Place the blade of BFS on the threaded boss. Abuse BFS with the hammer thus voiding your Craftsman lifetime warranty and relieving tension on Belt #2 at the same time. IMPORTANT – Do not locate the blade of BFS so that it chews up the bolt threads as you pound on it. You may have to use the wrench to further loosen the bolt until you can remove the belt.
The Belt #3 tensioner is also mounted in such a way to prevent direct application of the hammer. Make sure you have a large gap between the bolt and the bracket. Remove the socket wrench for the extension and pound on the end of the extension with the hammer. Eventually you will have to remove the socket and use the extension alone to pound the bolt in. Belt #3 is the most difficult. You will have to pound the tensioner in to the end of its travel. You will also have more problems with rust because it is close to the road.
Time for a BEER!!
Now to install the new belts:
Belt #3 is by far the tightest. Make sure you have the tensioner pounded in to the end of its travel. If you are lucky you will have no difficulty with #3 and you can skip the belt preparation step I had to go through.
To prepare the belt, let it soak in a pan of warm water for a few minutes. Warm water will soften the rubber slightly. Water on the belt will make it slip and greatly aid in installation.
Thread the belt completely on the inside race of the crank pulley as well as the tensioner pulley. Next, get it threaded around the AC pulley as much as possible. Stand at the side of the car and rotate the AC pulley towards the engine. The wet belt will slip on the crank pulley enough to allow it to finish threading itself onto the AC pulley as you turn the pulley. The water will eventually evaporate and no longer cause belt slipping.
Turn the tensioner bolt until Belt #3 has correct tension. You will notice that the tensioner does not go back to its original position. Belts stretch as they age and you will periodically have to adjust the belt tension.
Belt #3 is a *****. Time for a BEER!!
Belts #2 and #1 are easy. Starting with belt #2 just thread them around the fan blade and onto the pulleys. Tighten the tensioners and you are done. IMPORTANT Do not forget to tighten the second tensioner bolt for belt #2.
Place the car in neutral and the clutch pedal down or park if an automatic. Start the car and check the correct operation of the AC as listen for noise form the rotating belts. Yeah you guessed it, there shouldn’t be any noise.
Put the car down. The job is finished time for a BEER!!!
Here is some information from the factory repair manual:
New belt deflection with 22 lb of force
Belt #1 power steering deflection 0.28-0.31 inches
Belt #2 alternator/water pump deflection 0.24 –0.28 inches
Belt #3 AC compressor deflection 0.24 – 0.28 inches.
The factory manual is confusing on the subject of tensioner bolt torque.
Bolts for belt #3 and #1 are 20-26 ft-lb.
The bolt for belt #2 is 12-15 ft-lb. I guess that is for both bolts.
JSP
02-04-2004, 12:43 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 14
Just one point I wanted to clarify. The factory manual listed tensioner bolt torques. But really you are tightening the bolts until you get the correct belt tension. The torque ranges are given only as a sanity check. In other words you will need a torque within the range they give to get the correct belt tension.
The front bolt for belt #2 is the exception. This one should be tightened to the correct torque AFTER the side bolt is tightened for correct belt tension.
The moderators might consider adding this text to the original message.
Thank you
JSP
The front bolt for belt #2 is the exception. This one should be tightened to the correct torque AFTER the side bolt is tightened for correct belt tension.
The moderators might consider adding this text to the original message.
Thank you
JSP
06-12-2004, 06:08 AM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: NJ
Posts: 21
Ok i tried out your method with a 92 240sx and this was my first installation ever on a car so io guess i popped my cherry. two this though:
1. pictures woulda helped alot i was like WTF IS THE IDLER TENSIONER PULLEY?!?!?
2. on belt three the, alternator belt i found that it was alot easier not to go for the bolt, what i did was loosen the bolt that connected the alternator so that it would have a little play and then i hit the alternator with the hammer with gentle blows, dont worry i didnt even ding it, just in case though i thought a rubber mallet woulda worked.
All in all i thought this was a great way to do it thanks man!
1. pictures woulda helped alot i was like WTF IS THE IDLER TENSIONER PULLEY?!?!?
2. on belt three the, alternator belt i found that it was alot easier not to go for the bolt, what i did was loosen the bolt that connected the alternator so that it would have a little play and then i hit the alternator with the hammer with gentle blows, dont worry i didnt even ding it, just in case though i thought a rubber mallet woulda worked.
All in all i thought this was a great way to do it thanks man!
06-20-2004, 06:12 PM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: A&M Corpus Christi
Posts: 245
ok. i'm in belt changing hell. The last mech that changed my belts STRIPPED my tensioner bolts on #2. ergo, i can loosen it tll all the tensioner bolts come off to no effect on the belt. the mech. to compensate for this tightnened the bottom braket bolt on the alternator down so tight that the alt won't move, so it holds belt tension. now i cannot get the frikkin thing loose.. suggestions? and there's some kind of nut thing that i've never seen on the back of the 14mm bolt. if anyone has an 89 & knows how to help me. i'd be really greatful.
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