ok...
well this isnt from a 240 perspective but..
here goes...
i have an accord which once had kyb agx with
nspeed race and nspeed sports..
and lemme tell u this.. it sucked ***..
but then again it wasnt on a 240 which is about 300-400 lbs lighter...

 

Guys ... looking at KYBs web site if looks like the GR-2s and the AGX have the same core technology in terms of valving , except for the adjustability ...

So if I dont plan on toying around with the adjusting features how do u think a GR-2 would compare against an AGX ... pricewise it eases you off by 200 bucks ...

In terms of firmness do u think the GR-2 would be as firm as the firmest setting on the AGX ...

I have decided not to lower my car .. (I know i am gonna get a lotta flak for it ) .. I met my friend yesterday who lowered his car by less than an inch (not a 240 though) and scrapped his undercarriage going over a bump on campus ... Too scared to have something of that sort happen ...

So if it is stock springs (does it make sense to get new springs if you are not lowering ) , what would it be for you .. GR-2 or AGX ...


thanks guys for all the info .. I am sure I will end up making a decision i wont regret with all ur inputs ...

 

well if u like the height of the car now... and if the car drives good.. there is noo need to change anything... if your shocks/struts are blown and u can live with it, then do so. if they are blown might as well just get new shocks and get springss..... sportlines look nice man .. i would suggest them ... i have gr2s and sportlines... they look and drive really nice... agx's everyone says are better... i probably agree... but i like my setup... nothing bad to say about it

 

Get the non adjustable gas shocks and keep you stock springs.

What size tire are you running now? I made the move from 195 to 205 with one of my other cars while also changing to gas shocks.

I was very happy with the improvements.

 

I am running the stock 195 R15 now on stock rims ... By the way I sent an email to KYB asking the same question comparing GR-2 and AGX ... Here is the reply :

GR-2 shocks/struts are 15% firmer than oem.

AGX
Adjust both rebound/compression at the same time.

Setting 1 = oem
Setting 2 is 15% firmer than setting 1
Setting 3 is 50% firmer than setting 2
Setting 4 is 30% firmer than setting 3

Setting 1~8 increase in smaller increments

Setting 1~4
1
2 = GR-2
3
4

Setting 1~8
2
4 = GR-2
6
8

So it looks like at setting 4 the AGX is almost 2.25 times as firm as OEM while the GR-2 are only 1.15 times as firm ... What kinda difference does this translate into in handling , i cant guess .. Any takes ...I wish I could say screw 200 bucks and go for the AGX !

But stanbo , ur suggestion seems to make sense too ...

 

Guys :

Back again after some time .. I finally got around to deciding on the AGX with stock springs .. I know its probably not the most optimal setup considering that I have not lowered .. But it is the roads here that discouraged me from doing it .. Got my AGX from coximport .. Paid about 65 or so bucks for 4 strut dust cover boots ..

All in all , after being off by close to 650 bucks including labor , my 240 now sits on a nice set of struts all around .. Just got the car back today in the evening and it was too dark for me to get to the dial in the rear .. The mechanic had put it at 7 and boy its firm as hell ..

What settings do you guys suggest for agressive street driving (uneven pavements here in NC !) .. Is there like a break in period for struts too and do i run it soft for sometime before moving to firmer setting ..

Lastly since AGX have only a 12 month factory warranty (coximport says that they offer a lifetime replacement warranty even on AGX) , how reliable are these struts ( I know its too late to ask this question ) .. But just to know and is there any care that needs to be taken ..


thanx y'all for the suggestions and helping me with deciding on my suspension setup .

 

Congrads on the struts.

As for the breakin period, I know I had to run my coils on 0 all around for the first 500 miles. They were hard as rocks then. After the 500 I noticed that the fronts got softer. Then I slowly started to turn them up.

It is now close to 1000 miles and I think I will be cranking them all up again. The fronts are currently at 5 and the rears are still at 0.

I think I am going to go with 8F 3R.

 

I am running my AGX at 2F/4R .. I am probably gonna let it run this way for a week or so before tuning it up ..


The dial in the rear AGX are still hard to reach .. Do any of you guys have the same problem or do i have to tweak my installation ..

Right now the dial sits almost behind the brake rotors and so even if i can reach it with some effort , i still cant read the numbers on the dial ..

 

about lowering your car. i've been reading more and more lately that a lowered car isnt all its cracked up to be as far as performance goes. sure it looks good, but heres my summary of what i've read-

the control arms are at a slight angle upwards toward the middle of the car at factory height. this is not ideal, but the factory leaves the car this high because of safety and ground clearance issues.

the ideal height of the car is when the control arms are parallel with the ground. to get this ideal height, you only need to lower the car about .5 inches.

anything more that that and the control arms are higher at the wheel than they are at the underbody of the car, which actually decreases handling ability.

so what i will be doing is first, getting koni yellows and then eventually find very stiff (around 250 to 300 lbs) springs that lower the car about .5 inches or getting ground controls and custom order the spring rates.

 

So im lookin to get some eibach pro-kit springs, is there anything else i need to lower the car? (struts, or whatever) and wheres the best place to get these online? best price I've found is $254.15

 

holy cow... go to enjukuracing and get them for $220 .. not including shipping... shipping is usually cheap ... ive seen some places have them for 200 if u look hard enough , i suggest the sportlines.. .they drop u lower, and the ride is stiffer... i like it that way

 

oh I would go lower if damn washington terrain would let me...If i got the sportlines i wouldnt be able to get out of my drive way...I scrape a little already if i go out straight so I have to go out at an angle, Ive heard that the pro-kit really only does like a .75 drop, so I'm hopin that will be ok.

 

its really not... trust me sportlines look nicer... and in my opinion feel better... prokits drop u barely enough to make you look differnt from stock... it looks stock period.. you can ask many people here... i scrape things all the time, and i live in ny.... i dont think washington is as bad as ny ....

 

My Driveway is

 

Spitz : If all of what you said is true, then I would actually be happier leaving the car at stock height .. For one you may not be able to lower your car precisely to the point where the lower control arms are actually parallel to the ground .. So you are either gonna be at an angle upward or downward .. Better to leave the setup that is safe .. The past few days of driving with the AGX have shown me that stiffer struts alone do wonders to hard cornering .. I am riding my AGX at 2F/5R for this week to let the new strut settle down and its still a joy to swish the 240 around in corners ...

Thanks for the information that you gave .. It definitely clears up some misconceptions about the dynamics of the lowered car ...

And I am thinking of putting in a stuut tower brace to compliment the new struts . Any suggestion on brands (inexpensive please ) .. And does a strut tower brace do any long term damage to the suspension itself .. Peace