Might as well upgrade to a CATCO high flow then..

 

Yeah, I'm debating right now. The Catco was like 100 shipped but the Magnaflow was like 60 shipped on sale, and both are the bolt-in. It doesn't say if the magnaflow is high flow or not.

 

What you want to look into on the magnaflow hi flows is the 43000series. Thats about as close and efficient it will be to a catco. 43000 with no sensor bungs.
http://www.car-sound.com/02product/universal/430.asp

Or you can go with the direct fit or universal. Direct fit part number is 22767, universal number is 53006.
http://www.car-sound.com/02product/d...irectfit=22767
http://www.car-sound.com/02product/d...niversal=53006

After reading over magnaflows compliance and strict rules for California exemption all there CATS seem to be hi flow so I think you will be fine.

 

Thanks for the info Vinnie, and thanks for lookin into the flow of those mangaflows. I have another question though about the AIV. What exactly does it do, is it a pump? I disconnected the pipe to see if it was pushing any air through it, but it wasn't doing anything. I read that it is vaccuum operated, but how do I know if it is bad? Would it even make that much of a difference in emissions if it wasn't working? When I googled it the site I found said that S14s don't have it, so it it even necessary?

 

It's a vacuum system that pumps air from the intake system into the exhaust system at startup/ idle/open loop. This is so that the CAT can efficiently heat up fast enough to start the conversion process. OBD2 don't need it because the CAT is butted directly to the end of the exhaust manifold making it perform fine at higher temps than OBD CATS.
If the catylitic converter doesn't reach it's temperature then the conversion process fails increasing HC, and CO's. The reason why the air is dumped into the cat to heat it up is that it allows unburned fuel to burn fast enough to heat the CAT, additional oxygen is required for the process on OBD1 CATS.

 

How do I know if it's bad? Is it even possible to tell since it relies on a vaccuum from the exhaust?

 

Have your car sit until the engine is dead cold. Once the car is back to open loop then you can start the car. Just disconnect the end to the exhaust manifold, find some way to cap off exhaust manifold for the testing. You should feel a slow gust of air run through outlet of the AIV to exhaust.
I don't know any other way to test it since it's a solenoid/pump....

 

BUMP, you figure it out yet??

 

No, not yet. I have been busy lately and havent had much time to look at it. I did run the codes, and the only code that came up was something stupid like the knock sensor. I cleared it and tested it again and it gave me code 55, nothing wrong. Something in the back of my mind is telling me it's the MAFS. I read a bunch of articles on the MAFS and I'm 90% sure mine is dirty, I have been having an on and off bogging problem when switching gears and bad emissions, combined with the fact that oiled cone filters have been known to cause the MAFS to get dirty. I'm gonna use some electric contact cleaner on it tomorrow.

 

It could be evaporative emissions (carbon canister, or the AIV, you aren't showing high levels in CO, or NOX.
EDIT:My bad on the CO level I keep forgetting we went over that issue...

 

Spray some cleaner into the AIV system, clean the EGR valve, seafoam it to hell... That should squeak you by.

Boy im glad I don't live in a parish (thats county for you non-louisianians, LOL) that has emissions testing. My 240 would have failed miserably. No cat, no egr, no carbon can, no AIV.

Backfiring flames on high rpm shifts ftw lol.

 

if you lower the fuel levels on your SAFC too much it will read even higher CO. lean isnt always better.

i would retard your timing until the idle starts to suffer, then up the idle to compensate. it will drive slower than ****, and will want to heat up (you better have a good cooling system) but it should pass. thats how we did things when we had emmisions here 8 yrs ago.

 

ha sounds good... yea man all states are different here in md. if the car looks like its not going to make it over the rollers and your obd1, your good to go..

ps
im glad you pointed out the old safc trick.

 

I don't have the SAFC settings changed, they're running stock settings.
Vinnie, lol, I DO have ungodly high CO. Both CO AND HC are high as hell, you keep confusing that. NOx was super low so it's not the EGR. Another reason I think my MAFS may be to blame is lately I have had problems with the rev limiter kicking in at 5000 rpms.

 

No I'm not confusing that, thats why I'm saying it's not your MAF. The MAF would show fuel richness which would be the HC's only.
HC's and CO's would probably be a bad CAT. Most stock CATS are 3 way CATS which means they filter NOX, CO's , and HC's. A 2 way CAT only filters CO's and HC's either way it sounds like the CAT. Now the CAT can also suffer from lack of using the AIV and the evaporative emissions system (CHARCOL CANISTER), the evaporative emissions would show higher HC's and CO's, an AIV would generally show just higher HC's.
Now in a 3 way CAT platinum is added to the ceramic honeycomb, the element of platinum pulls the Nitrogen from the NOX reducing it to carbon dioxide and oxygen only.
Don't fuc^ with the SAFC either leaning out will only increaseNOX emissions big time, the leaner the cylinder chamber is the hotter it gets and NOX emissions start to form at 2500*F. Now if you want to lower HC's and CO's you can try to use a lower grade octane since it will burn faster, but in that process you increase NOX due to the very fast heptane burn off.
Once again timing can effect HC's, CO's can go up , but probably not as bad as you are talking about..
So any way more than likely the CAT, AIV, or evaporative emissions, I wouldn't think it's the MAF.