240kid

I bought a SPEC stage 2 clutch about 5,000 miles ago. I didnt know that you really had to break it in as much as you are supposed to. I drove it nicely (not flooring it or launching) for about 75-100 miles. The clutch always was shaky and never engaged smoothly. Could this be why my clutch didnt last me? The other thing is when my mechanic installed it he told me that it wouldnt last long since it was a racing clutch so i wondered if it was just time for it to go anyway. what replacement should i get? should i just get a new SPEC disc since i have the SPEC pressure plate and all? or should i go with a whole new kit? please help me out

sr20 learner

id say to go with the spec disc cuz a whole kit is gonna cost u i mean depends how much u make but my opnion get the spec disc and ur mechanic prolly said it wasnt gonna last cuz he prolly didnt put it in right if ur clutch is shaky and never engading either ur mechanic f...ed up didnt know what he was doing or maybe it was messed up already if it was used.

.ICE.COLD.

yea some...or most clutches take about 400 miles to break in, and when you do instal the other one make sure that the flywheel and pressure plate are nice and clean! have your mechanic clean it well, with something like brake parts cleaner.

CowboyTurbo

I had been having troubles with my clutch too. Just so you know, the stock oem flywheel in the S14 was manufactured so that you could re-surface it once and only once. If you've already re-surfaced it before and you try to re-surface it again, you will definitely have clutch problems. When using aftermarket clutch discs, it is usually recommended that you install the whole kit (disc and pressure plate) along w/a new flywheel. Good luck on everything

240kid

man this is no good...now i have to get a new flywheel! i have recently dumped a crapload of money into my car for maintance.

2fast4y0u

yeah well...lets define a crapload of money. im into the $6000 range with an sr swap with a few extras(soon to be told). thats a crapload. i also did a manual conversion. so, i paid for what i got but still.

djradam

i would define a crapload as in 1500 - 2000 just on ka transmission work. double that and you could get an sr engine and tranny... and gain HP. 1500-2000 is pricey on general maintenance that focuses on one part (i'm guessing that much, parts, labor, etc)

BlitzDriftGTR

That sucks. Ive heard that you are suppose to scratch the clutch when installing it. I dont know if its true but thats what my friend said. Also its best if you get a new kit just so you dont have any problems.

wikd240

i would say replace them as a unit... clutch pressure plate and t/o bearing... the flywheel should also be replaced if it is needed... take this chance to get a lighter unit... if you plan on future mods to the car... make sure you read the break in instructions that come with the clutch this time... some clutches - certain puck style say hammer down asap... others say take 500 miles of low rpm daily driving... depends on the clutch...
there should not have been clutch engagement problems with the new clutch... next time if it does not seem right chances are it is not... if it acts up again take it back to your mechanic asap and tell him it is not right and it needs to be looked at...

p.s. with all the money i spent on my na ka i could have done an sr swap... so i know about crap loads... im into it for 3500 already... and i still have to do trans work and get a few other goodies... and there aint even a turbo on this motor...

s13_peacekeeper

yeah same here, im def. over 3000 on my na ka-e, and the ***** still doesnt run right.lol

C-Walk

and if your not going to get a allm. flywheel then you can always just get a stock oem one. It cost about 40 and resurfacing it at a machine shop cost about 35 and a couple hours.