I put the clutch in about a month ago, and immediately I noticed that it has a VERY long engagement. The clutch itself is an RPS Max Street (MS-17547-ST), OEM Throwout, and OEM pilot bushing. I had to adjust out all free play at the top, and it still started engagement at the floor. It was drivable, but now that Ive driven it ~3 weeks its worse. It started last week after a WOT run the clutch didn't want to completely disengage. As of Friday the clutch is bad all the time... cant put in gear from neutral.The clutch slave/master were replaced this weekend, and everything is bled well. The very first time after readjusting the rod on the back of the master cylinder, I could put the car into gear from neutral, but the next time it'll just grind like the clutch isn't disengaged. I've checked to make sure the slave is moving, and it seems to be getting full travel. Now I'm thinking that Ill have to drop the transmission and check the fork, throwout, and pressure plate. Does anyone have any other suggestions, or had problems like this? The original slave cylinder was a 3/4 slave that the DOHC S13's came with, and I hoped that the 89-90/95+ 11/16 slave would pick up enough slack to fix it... didn't work.

 

I just ordered a Nismo Pivot if that's broken, but is there anything else to check while the transmission is dropped... I don't want to put it back up to find that the problem is still there. I have the 240sx throwout, but I've been hearing that the Z32/96+ S14 throwout works better with aftermarket clutches.

 

Update:

Clutch is out, everything looks like it should, and Im stumped. The disk looks fine since its not missing any springs, and the surface looks fine. The pressure plate seems to look fine, and springs all feel fine. The pivot ball is fine, and the fork is straight. The throwout bearing spins freely, and looks structurally looks sound. Ill get some pictures tonight, and see if anyone notices something wrong.

 

-try removing the clutch dampner, and bleed well. I'm not questioning your skills, but most people don't know how to bleed a clutch properly. Removing the dampner will make bleeding easier and gives no room for air bubbles to hide.

 

Pictures:

 

I haven't had a clutch damper on the car for ~2-3 yrs. I've never had problems bleeding clutches before... 4 motor swaps, and 2 clutches with this chassis. I've always noticed with air in the lines, you can pump up the clutch to a point. The pedal is firm, and feels like it should.

 

I did notice almost immediately when bolting the pressure plate on that the springs caught quickly. Usually on the previous clutches the springs didn't move until the last little but of tightening, where as these did pretty much did as soon as the bolts caught thread.

 

return the clutch and say they gave you a diffective clutch before you throw it all back together. Since it is so new they will replace it.

 

Yeah, I sent RPS an email tonight... they have a 180 day warranty. I hope I get a response back quickly since this is my main car for getting around, my guess is 2 weeks to another one here if they cover it.

 

Well I talked with phase2, and RPS about it. They wanted me to throw it back in to make sure it wasn't a fluke. I took pictures of all the steps... anything look out of place? The clutch still doesn't want to disengage with the pedal to the floor.

 

Here are 2 vids I made... not great, but it should give an idea.

Clutch Slave in action:


Wheel moving in gear w/ pedal to the floor:


...I'll try to gt some more video in the daylight, but this is all I have for now.

 

what brand are the master/slave?

 

The current ones are advanced auto, the other 2 sets Ive had on this last week were OEM nissan. I had OEM nissan on originally that didnt leak...bled it and problem was still there. Tried another OEM 93 3/4" slave...no luck. Decided to grab some new stuff for a shot... 5/8" Advanced Auto Master, and 11/16" 240sx Slave. I went to the smaller piston slave since it'd move farther with the same pedal travel. The clutch is adjusted to the point Id bet at WOT it would slip, and pedal to the floor the clutch doesn't fully disengage. Its like the clutch is designed for 6" more pedal movement.

 

Dude after watching that video of your slave cylinder....it has to be your clutch. how is the pivot point on your fork?

 

I had the oem one on, and installed a nismo pivot when throwing it back in. Ill be pulling the clutch out, and sending it out next week it looks like.