silvia fog light connector/harness?????
10-09-2006, 05:20 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: WeeeHoooo,CA
Posts: 181
silvia fog light connector/harness?????
Hi,
where can I find a Silvia S13 foglight harness/plug.
I'm trying to hook up a fog kit and my passenger side fog bulb has only the two prongs on the back of the bulb exposed;there is no plastic connector piece with the wires coming out of the back.
Where can I get this part?
Thanks
warrenjuice@yahoo.com
where can I find a Silvia S13 foglight harness/plug.
I'm trying to hook up a fog kit and my passenger side fog bulb has only the two prongs on the back of the bulb exposed;there is no plastic connector piece with the wires coming out of the back.
Where can I get this part?
Thanks
warrenjuice@yahoo.com
10-11-2006, 02:47 AM
#5
Contributing Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Cali
Posts: 1,055
http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.p...eadlight+relay
"Hello all I just wanted to shed some light on wiring up the silvia fog lights in the triple projectors. Many folks already know how to wire the lights into the existing circuitry by splicing into the brown and the black wire located on the old popup harness. That is initially what worked for me and I had no complaints as the pop-up button functioned as a foglight on/off button & whenever I turned on my headlights at the stalk the foglights would also come on.
It wasn't until I was following a friend that it was pointed out to me that when the headlights were on the foglights were prone to random flickering. I could resolve this problem by turning the pop-up button on but to me that wasn't an acceptable permanent solution. I decided to take the time and go over the 90 240sx schematics and figure out how to isolate the stalk from turning on the fog lights and just allowing the pop-up light to work. Initially I was overwhelmed by the mess of diagram's nissan passes off as schematics, but once I got to tracing it out on paper I was able to come up with a ridiculously easy fix. All you have to do is remove the retractor relay #4 and this knocks the headlight timing circuit out of the loop for the fog lights. In the attached schematics I took the time to highlight the path the current takes through the circuit "Blue" is for the circuit under battery power, "Green" is under alternator power, Red is for the power that gets sent from the pop-up switch to the lights (This power you can see comes from either the alternator or the battery source). I took the time to include the diagram of the engine bay and highlighted the relay to pull.
Further inspection of the relay ladder resulted in me removing all 4 retractor relay assemblies; however, if you chose to remove relay's 1 & 2 you will have to jumper the connections that are NOT across the coil. This has to be done because the relay is an NC type (Normally Closed) and when you pull the relay you open the circuit and remove the ground signal going to your headlights.
I hope this is useful for anyone out there trying to figure out how to wire up the circuit or how the circuit works. If anyone care's to point out mistakes or misconceptions I would be happy to discuss them. I am a technician and not an engineer so I'm bound to have oversimplified it Feel free to ask questions and I will be happy to address them.
To summarize for everybody who is looking for info on how to wire S13 Silvia fogs, the bulb has 2 prongs. It needs to see (+) and ground. It doesn't really matter which is which, as long as current is flowing through the bulb and to the ground.
If you tap into the headlight retractor motor harness, go for the brown wire. This will give you (+) whenever the retractor switch on the dash is activated, or whenever the headlamps are on.
For ground, you can use the black wire on the retractor harness, or ground it directly to the radiator support somehow. I chose to use the headlight support. Whichever you choose is fine as long as you get a good clean ground connection.
If you wire these 2 wires up, your fog will come on with headlamps and with the retractor switch. If you want, you can clip the rest of the retractor harness or plug them up for simplicity.
What radhaz has done (and I have confirmed), is to go into the underhood relay box A next to the battery and pull the #4 retractor relay. It's the gray relay 2nd from the front. This will knock the retractor circuit off of the headlamp circuit. Now you can control the foglamps directly with the retractor switch. Turning on the headlamps with the retractor switch off will not turn on the foglamps.
If you want, you can also pull relay #3. It's located in the relay box B next to the intake. The relay is black. 2nd one on the back row next to the horn relay. This will reduce some of the clicking noise you hear when you turn your headlamps on and off. You can leave relay #3 and it will work just fine as well."
"Hello all I just wanted to shed some light on wiring up the silvia fog lights in the triple projectors. Many folks already know how to wire the lights into the existing circuitry by splicing into the brown and the black wire located on the old popup harness. That is initially what worked for me and I had no complaints as the pop-up button functioned as a foglight on/off button & whenever I turned on my headlights at the stalk the foglights would also come on.
It wasn't until I was following a friend that it was pointed out to me that when the headlights were on the foglights were prone to random flickering. I could resolve this problem by turning the pop-up button on but to me that wasn't an acceptable permanent solution. I decided to take the time and go over the 90 240sx schematics and figure out how to isolate the stalk from turning on the fog lights and just allowing the pop-up light to work. Initially I was overwhelmed by the mess of diagram's nissan passes off as schematics, but once I got to tracing it out on paper I was able to come up with a ridiculously easy fix. All you have to do is remove the retractor relay #4 and this knocks the headlight timing circuit out of the loop for the fog lights. In the attached schematics I took the time to highlight the path the current takes through the circuit "Blue" is for the circuit under battery power, "Green" is under alternator power, Red is for the power that gets sent from the pop-up switch to the lights (This power you can see comes from either the alternator or the battery source). I took the time to include the diagram of the engine bay and highlighted the relay to pull.
Further inspection of the relay ladder resulted in me removing all 4 retractor relay assemblies; however, if you chose to remove relay's 1 & 2 you will have to jumper the connections that are NOT across the coil. This has to be done because the relay is an NC type (Normally Closed) and when you pull the relay you open the circuit and remove the ground signal going to your headlights.
I hope this is useful for anyone out there trying to figure out how to wire up the circuit or how the circuit works. If anyone care's to point out mistakes or misconceptions I would be happy to discuss them. I am a technician and not an engineer so I'm bound to have oversimplified it Feel free to ask questions and I will be happy to address them.
To summarize for everybody who is looking for info on how to wire S13 Silvia fogs, the bulb has 2 prongs. It needs to see (+) and ground. It doesn't really matter which is which, as long as current is flowing through the bulb and to the ground.
If you tap into the headlight retractor motor harness, go for the brown wire. This will give you (+) whenever the retractor switch on the dash is activated, or whenever the headlamps are on.
For ground, you can use the black wire on the retractor harness, or ground it directly to the radiator support somehow. I chose to use the headlight support. Whichever you choose is fine as long as you get a good clean ground connection.
If you wire these 2 wires up, your fog will come on with headlamps and with the retractor switch. If you want, you can clip the rest of the retractor harness or plug them up for simplicity.
What radhaz has done (and I have confirmed), is to go into the underhood relay box A next to the battery and pull the #4 retractor relay. It's the gray relay 2nd from the front. This will knock the retractor circuit off of the headlamp circuit. Now you can control the foglamps directly with the retractor switch. Turning on the headlamps with the retractor switch off will not turn on the foglamps.
If you want, you can also pull relay #3. It's located in the relay box B next to the intake. The relay is black. 2nd one on the back row next to the horn relay. This will reduce some of the clicking noise you hear when you turn your headlamps on and off. You can leave relay #3 and it will work just fine as well."
Last edited by naptime; 10-11-2006 at 02:50 AM.
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