timing chain guide removal followup questions
09-23-2007, 08:53 PM
#1
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: jersey
Posts: 357
timing chain guide removal followup questions
i followed a how to for the timing chain guide removal at:
forums-********-com/zerothread/105618
(replace dashes with periods - oops didn't work anyway it was on n.i.c.o.c.l.u.b)
but was not allowed to. i wanted to add my questions to help anyone out who does it after me.
anyway, i followed that how-to to remove the upper timing chain guides (2) and made sure the tensioner was working.
i bought my 93 s13 with 24,000 miles from some old lady. i replace the oil often and now im up to about 75,000. of course i always had the ticking noise and had called the mechanic the first day i got it to make sure it wasnt a problem. 2 years later i finally have rid myself of the noise.
given my cars low mileage and the good condition i kept it in i figured that my problem must be the guides. i didnt think the tensioner would be stuck given that i change the oil often with mobil 1 fully synthetic and ive practically been the only owner. basically my thought process was that my cars in good shape, its probably something out of my control like the guides. however my guide was stuck, and i was able to use wd 40 to loosen it up as shown in the how to. i also removed the guides so i am not sure which fixed the ticking.
after reading all the articles on how to get rid of the ticking noise i decided i could handle the project. im not particularly knowledgeable about cars but im willing to jump in and do it. this project seemed easy enough, remove some bolts on top, remove some on bottom, easy with the distributor markings etc. as always, something that seemed simple turned out to be a long time. bolts were tricky to get at, had to find correct tools etc. other than the extra time it took me it was a successful project. everything was done the way it was in the how to, just have a few questions and observations to make.
1. this is a pretty straight forward process. it may take you a while if you don't know anything such as myself. i took my time and make sure i did each step right. once u get the initial couple tools it becomes easy because thats what you use the whole way through.
2. it works. after doing it there was no more rattle and i didnt have any other issues as a result of the surgery.
questions:
1. in the how to it says to use the RTV in certain areas. my questions then become where to specifically? for the front cam sprocket cover the image seems to imply that i apply it to the front where the cover seals vertically against the head. do i cover every edge that seals? such as the bottom of the camshaft sprocket? the how to did not seem to mention that.
2. for the valve cover. do i just put the rtv inside the circular grooves at the front and the back or all the way around? it did not seem like it was meant to go anywhere else but inside the grooves.
3. the tiniest piece of old sealant fell into the engine, is this gonna be an issue? is it something to worry about that i should change my oil immediately? or will waiting till my next change be fine?
3.5 how long for the rtv to dry before starting engine? box says 1 hour to dry and 24 to completely procure. what do u guys think?
4. the distributor. i did not use a timing light. i did not rotate the engine at all. i simply used marks on the cap and rotor as they did in the how to. after reassembling everything lined up, my car started and seems to run fine. the marks lined up dead on after. my question is how sensitive is this setting? could it be dead on to my eyes, but be a hair off and cause a timing issue? i set up 2 separate marks that seamlessly align so im assuming its not an issue.
5. no torque wrench. i simply made them tight, not over tight, but a good solid tight. is this a major issue that needs to be fixed? i spoke to my friend whos a mechanic and he said you are supposed to but you can get by. i figured i would post this for people who may not have a torque wrench. if u do this should u do it extremely tight? just enough? go easy?
thats all, any things you add in would be appreciated.
(2-3 weeks later I have had no problems)
forums-********-com/zerothread/105618
(replace dashes with periods - oops didn't work anyway it was on n.i.c.o.c.l.u.b)
but was not allowed to. i wanted to add my questions to help anyone out who does it after me.
anyway, i followed that how-to to remove the upper timing chain guides (2) and made sure the tensioner was working.
i bought my 93 s13 with 24,000 miles from some old lady. i replace the oil often and now im up to about 75,000. of course i always had the ticking noise and had called the mechanic the first day i got it to make sure it wasnt a problem. 2 years later i finally have rid myself of the noise.
given my cars low mileage and the good condition i kept it in i figured that my problem must be the guides. i didnt think the tensioner would be stuck given that i change the oil often with mobil 1 fully synthetic and ive practically been the only owner. basically my thought process was that my cars in good shape, its probably something out of my control like the guides. however my guide was stuck, and i was able to use wd 40 to loosen it up as shown in the how to. i also removed the guides so i am not sure which fixed the ticking.
after reading all the articles on how to get rid of the ticking noise i decided i could handle the project. im not particularly knowledgeable about cars but im willing to jump in and do it. this project seemed easy enough, remove some bolts on top, remove some on bottom, easy with the distributor markings etc. as always, something that seemed simple turned out to be a long time. bolts were tricky to get at, had to find correct tools etc. other than the extra time it took me it was a successful project. everything was done the way it was in the how to, just have a few questions and observations to make.
1. this is a pretty straight forward process. it may take you a while if you don't know anything such as myself. i took my time and make sure i did each step right. once u get the initial couple tools it becomes easy because thats what you use the whole way through.
2. it works. after doing it there was no more rattle and i didnt have any other issues as a result of the surgery.
questions:
1. in the how to it says to use the RTV in certain areas. my questions then become where to specifically? for the front cam sprocket cover the image seems to imply that i apply it to the front where the cover seals vertically against the head. do i cover every edge that seals? such as the bottom of the camshaft sprocket? the how to did not seem to mention that.
2. for the valve cover. do i just put the rtv inside the circular grooves at the front and the back or all the way around? it did not seem like it was meant to go anywhere else but inside the grooves.
3. the tiniest piece of old sealant fell into the engine, is this gonna be an issue? is it something to worry about that i should change my oil immediately? or will waiting till my next change be fine?
3.5 how long for the rtv to dry before starting engine? box says 1 hour to dry and 24 to completely procure. what do u guys think?
4. the distributor. i did not use a timing light. i did not rotate the engine at all. i simply used marks on the cap and rotor as they did in the how to. after reassembling everything lined up, my car started and seems to run fine. the marks lined up dead on after. my question is how sensitive is this setting? could it be dead on to my eyes, but be a hair off and cause a timing issue? i set up 2 separate marks that seamlessly align so im assuming its not an issue.
5. no torque wrench. i simply made them tight, not over tight, but a good solid tight. is this a major issue that needs to be fixed? i spoke to my friend whos a mechanic and he said you are supposed to but you can get by. i figured i would post this for people who may not have a torque wrench. if u do this should u do it extremely tight? just enough? go easy?
thats all, any things you add in would be appreciated.
(2-3 weeks later I have had no problems)
Last edited by kable; 09-23-2007 at 09:08 PM.
09-23-2007, 09:38 PM
#2
09-23-2007, 10:47 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: jersey
Posts: 357
thanks...those pictures are helpful for the bolts as the engine is out of the car and a lot easier to show the location of what you are looking for.
still have the same questions though, they werent really addressed in that how to.
still have the same questions though, they werent really addressed in that how to.
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