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240sx Clutch install how-to

Old 10-13-2005, 03:37 AM
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DIY:240sx Clutch install how-to

Sup guys its donnie/dj, this is clutch #4 of the year, came in the mail today and i installed it that night, I took it upon my self to make a small how-to guide for anyone who wants to save money. I will try to be as clear as possible.
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Tools Needed
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27mm or 28mm socket (optional)
17mm socket
14mm socket and wrench
12mm socket or wrench
10mm socket and wrench
Torque wrench (optional)
Pry bar
Medium size breaker bar (1/2 and 3/4 drive)
1/2 and 3/4 extension (6 inches)
2x flat-head screw driver
Nice size floor jack
4 x jacks stand (the bigger the better)
Light (if working in dark)
Hammer
Funnel
2x block of work (to press out bearing)
Pilot bearing puller
Alignment tool (provided in kit)
Small impact gun (optional)
A friend
Some muscles

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Fluids needed
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2 bottles of 75-90 gl4 gear oil (or of your choice)
4x cans of brake or carb cleaner (optional)
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Steps to installing clutch kit
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1. Open your clutch kit; make sure you have a pressure plate, throw-out bearing, clutch disc, pilot bearing and alignment tool.
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2. Jack car up and place on jack stands, start with the front by jacking on the beam that runs along the bottom of the radiator and then move to the rear jacking on the rear part of the differential. Get the car as high as you can while being safe. The more height, the more space you have to work with when pulling tranny away from motor and from under the car.
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3. Unhook negative battery terminal, remove the starter using your 14mm and 12mm socket and wrench. The two bolts that you have to remove from the starter count as tranny bolts also.
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4. Remove all bolts from tranny using your 14mm wrench and socket,
after you remove all bolts next you want to take your 14mm socket and remove the two bolts holding the slave cylinder to the tranny. Once you do that, take your time and remove the lower engine harness from the tranny, which includes gear/reverse sensors and speed sensor.

5. get inside the car. Once inside remove your radio. Unscrew your shift ****. If you have a shift boot remove along with the plastic bezel by pulling it up. Next you will need your 10mm socket with an extension to remove the 4 bolts on the rubber boot. Once that boot is off. You have to take your 2 flat head screw drivers and stick them inside the notches . Pry the c-clip together and pop it out. Once the c-clip is out, you will be able to remove the shifter.
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6. Now that the shifter is out. the next step is to drain the tranny fluid. If you can, please drive the car in order to heat the fluid. Cold fluid will take a while to exit the tranny. drain the gear oil (trans fluid) using your 1/2 breaker(without socket) bar on the sqaure drain plug .

7. Now with the tranny empty. you are now ready to remove the drive shaft. You will need your 14mm wrench (closed end) and a 17mm socket. Rotate the drive shaft until your bolt/nut is close to the bottom. Have your friend pull the e-brake to lock the wheels. Remove each nut, just repeat that step 3 more time. Once the 4 bolts are off, the drive shaft will not fall because you have to pull it forward. Before you do so, unbolt the two driveshaft mount ( dust collar) bolts using your 17mm socket. once that is off, push the shaft toward the motor allowing it to fall from the diff ( don’t allow it to hit the ground ) and then pull it back away from the tranny. Once down, sit safely out of the way.
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8. Now using your 3 ton floor jack. Place it right under the spot where you drained the tranny fluid from. Jack the tranny just a bit until it rises from the mount. you will need you 17mm socket and your 1/2 or 3/4 6 inch extension to break/unbolt the four 17mm bolts. Once those bolts are broken and taken out. Drop tranny just a bit. Don’t allow the tranny to fall to the ground [color=Red]. Now you will need to shake the tranny just a bit left and right. I will begin to loosen up. Now take your pry bar and separate the tranny from the motor. once the spines pop out. slow take the tranny away from the motor and lower it down by hand like I did or with the jack.
(the tranny is only about 75 pounds or so )


9 a. Now with the tranny down. check out your old clutch. Place the alignment tool inside the clutch disc if not after you remove the pressure plate the disc will fall to the ground.
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9 b.you will need a 12mm wrench and hammer to remove the pressure plate. you must use the wrench hammer combo because the motor will free spin. Place the wrench on the bolt and tap once with medium power to break the bolt free you will be doing this six times. if you have an impact gun it will be easier, but its not needed.
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10. Now with you pressure plate gone, your flywheel is now exposed. Its recommended that you have your flywheel resurfaced. but its not always needed. Take a clean lint free cloth and wipe away any dirt, dust, and fingerprints. Carefully inspect you flywheel for hotspots, deep scratches and cracks. As you can see my flywheel had a crack. I replaced it using the hammer method used in step 9 b. while the flywheel is off. use the pilot bearing puller to take out your old bearing. you can insert your new pilot bearing. make sure the bearing is seated properly
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11. now you have to replace you old worn out throw-out bearing. ( its recommended to use the throw-out bearing that came with your kit). the bearing can simply be beat off with a block of wood. To put the new bearing on, simply place the bearing holder on a block of wood. Place the Throw-out bearing on top and place the second piece of wood on top of the throw-out bearing. use a hammer to compress the bearing onto the holder. once that is done. place the throw-out bearing back on the fork. Before you put the fork back in the tranny. take a second to clean out the bell housing using the brake cleaner. the dirt can get on your clutch disc after a while.
AB

12. Now you are almost to the point where you are now reversing all of the steps you have just done. the first step is to place the clutch disc on the alignment tool. place the clutch onto the flywheel. the disc has a flywheel side and pressure plate side. make sure that the part of the disc where the springs seem to stick out is facing out. Also the rule of thumb is, if the clutch disc can’t go flush against the flywheel that is the wrong side. Once the clutch is there, place the pressure plate on the dow pins. this is kinda tricky.. since the clutch is for years 89-99 some of the flywheels have a different dow pattern. once u have match your pattern carefully check to make sure that the clutch is center. once you have done that. use your hand and softly bang in a circular motion around the pressure plate. next insert the 6 bolts by hand. once they are all in place tighten the bolts fully using the diagram below. never tighten in a circular motion, the pressure plate will not be mounted correctly.
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13. once the pressure plate is secure. now move the tranny back in place. add a lil bit of lubrications to the input shaft splines to prevent scratching. lift the tranny by hand or with jack. slowly more toward clutch and insert. the tranny must be 100% level in order to go in properly. once the input shaft is close to the splines on the clutch. you can have your friend rotate the crank to turn the flywheel and allow the tranny to slip on, or u can simply hold the tranny level and push it on while carefully turning the tranny left and right like i did. it will slide right on.

14. once tranny is on use the jack to hold in place. now you must tighten the tranny using all of the bolts. you must add the starter back also because the bolts act as tranny bolts also. when putting the bolts back on, make sure you don’t tighten one side completely. you have to rotate around and evenly tighten the tranny back to the motor.

15. Once that is done. bolt the tranny cross member back up.

16. now you have to slide the drive shaft into the tranny. once its in, bolt the driveshaft back to the differential. make sure the washer goes on the nut side and not the bolt. After the 4 bolts are put back. bolt the 2x 17mm bolts back that hold the driveshaft mount ( dust collar )

17. Tighten the drain plug on the tranny after you clean all the metal shavings off the magnet. hook all of the lower engine sensors back up.

18. Now get back inside the car. place a funnel inside of the shifter hole. You can fill the tranny back up through this hole, much faster than the filler plug. after you fill the tranny replace the shifter along with the c-clip. Replace the boots and reinstall the radio and plastic bezel. finaly bleed the clutch if needed

19.let the car down, in the back first. hook your battery back up and start you car and begin your 500 mile break in period

my times
ground install=2hr
lift=1hr 15 min


Later.

Special thanks.
Jace (driveway, light, jacks)
Steve (camera)


Last edited by Biggamehit; 07-01-2007 at 07:53 AM.
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Old 10-13-2005, 05:05 AM
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nice....
i vote for sticky
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Old 10-13-2005, 05:56 AM
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good stuff man... +1 on the sticky. U might want to mention that the tranny drainage plug is square so yea use a breaker bar without a socket and use lithium based grease (the white stuff) on the input shaft when putting back together... oh and I'm pretty sure the tranny isn't 85-90 lbs. (unless I'm a lot stronger than I think I am) maybe closer to 70-80 lbs.? Either way, this swap is usually easier with a strong friend helping you until you get used to it. Also be careful to detach ALL the sensors connected to the tranny~ ripping any of them out accidentally can get expensive. I did mine in a different order, but it's all gravy...
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Old 10-13-2005, 07:22 AM
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this may sound stupid but it's only october and you're on clutch number 4. how do you burn threw them so fast?
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Old 10-13-2005, 10:39 AM
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popping the clutch
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Old 10-13-2005, 10:45 AM
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Originally posted by dak2007
this may sound stupid but it's only october and you're on clutch number 4. how do you burn threw them so fast?

well this year i have had 3 ka's. When i did the first swap i went with what i thought was a exedy stage one. when i relized it was stock. i had already been doing to much high reving on the high way and learning to drift,well one night at work it went up on me. after that i could not afford to get a new clutch kit. so the rest for the summer were all used. The second one i completely melted in 3 weeks and the 3rd i snaped the welds in the middle. My ka is pretty much stock. but from my races against other KA,s it seems to have a lil more power with the poormans mods i have done.

*********
HTML version
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html version:http://240sxdrifter.tripod.com/240sxclutch.html

Last edited by Biggamehit; 10-13-2005 at 12:39 PM.
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Old 10-13-2005, 10:49 AM
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Originally posted by CowboyTurbo
good stuff man... +1 on the sticky. U might want to mention that the tranny drainage plug is square so yea use a breaker bar without a socket and use lithium based grease (the white stuff) on the input shaft when putting back together... oh and I'm pretty sure the tranny isn't 85-90 lbs. (unless I'm a lot stronger than I think I am) maybe closer to 70-80 lbs.? Either way, this swap is usually easier with a strong friend helping you until you get used to it. Also be careful to detach ALL the sensors connected to the tranny~ ripping any of them out accidentally can get expensive. I did mine in a different order, but it's all gravy...
good point about the drain plug ill add that right away becasue i remember my very first time doing it, i was like where the hell is the bolt ( on the tranny and the diff ) lol. However i did mention to lubricate the inputshaft.
oh yea about the tranny, its really light to me but i didnt wanna make my self sound to strong. i play football for University of MD lol so it pretty light.
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Old 10-13-2005, 12:34 PM
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Re: 240sx Clutch install how-to

Originally posted by Biggamehit
start with the front by jacking on the beam that runs along the bottom of the radiator
Just so everyone knows, that's not exactly a safe place to be jacking from, use the crossmember.
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Old 10-13-2005, 12:38 PM
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I understand ur theory, however i have been jacking there for a while, i dont allow the car weight to sit on it for more then a few seconds ( this is where the pit crew skills come in lol). if you use that spot, get the jackstands under the crossmember asap.

also if u are using a large floor jack with nice size jack stands, when u jack from the center of the crossmember, you will not have room to safely place ur stands

if ur frame is rotten at that spot dont jack there. use the crossmember.


mod can u move this to drivetrain section, i posted her by a mistake.

Last edited by Biggamehit; 10-13-2005 at 04:20 PM.
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Old 10-13-2005, 06:55 PM
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This is gonna sound funny but I agree with "Stupid" - that part of the car isn't meant to support the car - hell it's meant to collapse on impact in an accident.

BTW moved to "Drivetrain'
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Old 10-13-2005, 07:49 PM
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thanks
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Old 10-18-2005, 09:00 PM
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You forgot to add that the pilot bushing should be lubricated using motor oil only. Use a finger to force oil into the porous metal. Basically just apply oil to the inside of it until it seeps to the outside.

Since jacking points are being discussed, for those who don't know, the rear jacking point is the differential housing.
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Old 10-19-2005, 06:20 PM
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I forgot to mention that when pulling the actual transmission off, be very careful not to rip out the crank angle sensor~ the little black thinghy at the top of the bell housing ('95 and up Ka24de's as far as I know). Your engine will run like crap without it.
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Old 10-20-2005, 06:44 PM
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Actually the engine will run just fine without it, but the CEL will come on.

According to the FSM it should be removed before you remove the transmission and reinstalled after you reinstall the transmission.
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Old 10-20-2005, 07:43 PM
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Originally posted by devnull
Actually the engine will run just fine without it, but the CEL will come on.

According to the FSM it should be removed before you remove the transmission and reinstalled after you reinstall the transmission.
engine will run, but eventually your idle will get all screwed up and throttle response will be sh1tty. Don't believe me? keep driving around without it.
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