cusco mounts install
03-23-2007, 07:52 PM
#1
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cusco mounts install
soft stock engine mounts --> stiff cusco engine mounts
intro
now that i have a digital camera and some free time i thought i'd do a write up on my latest install. this is a very easy procedure and i thought i'd show just how easy it is. the stock engine mounts are kind of soft so i thought i'd go with some stiffer but not solid mounts.
first assemble all your tools. i used the following.
1. jack
2. jack stands
3. bottle jack
4. 3/8" ratchet with 14mm socket
5. 3/8" torque wrench
6. 12" 3/8" extension with swivel extension
7. 14 mm wratchet wrench
8. 14mm wrench
1. get your car on the jack stands.
the best place for the stands to go under would be the cross member. it's the strongest surface you'll
find underneath. i've read of some placing the stands under the radiator core supports but i'd advise
against that.
2. remove 14 mm nuts and bolts that hold the mount on the cross member and engine.
first remove the nut that secure the mount to the cross member, remove only one side first. now place the bottle jack under the flat part of the engine that butts up against the transmission. only jack it up about and inch, this is only to suspend the engine while you replace the mount.
now the 4 bolts that attach the mount to the engine. having a header and not the stock manifold made things really easy. once the bolts are off just pull the mount out.
3. disassemble old mount assemble new mount.
in this step you want to pay attention to where the tabs are on the bottom of both mounts. this is important so don't put it together wrong.
4. install the new mount.
go in revers order first the 4 bolts. to torque them you'll need the swivel extension. now lower the bottle jack and make sure that the tab on the mount is in the slot on the cross member and torque that nut too. your done with one side now the passenger side.
5. passenger side.
i'll summarize here because the passenger side is done just like the driver side but not as easily because of the limited space. i had to use the 12" extension with the swivel to get to the bolts but the nut on the bottom of the mount was more accessible.
6. lower car
just as it says after making sure everything is nice and tight get the car off the stands and your done.
7.concuseion.
all in all the mounts are much stiffer than stock. when i first turned the car on the inside rattled so bad i thought the car would fall apart. i was worried that the excuse vibration would damage the slot on the cross member were the nut is so i placed a flat washer there to make sure that that didn't happen. the temperature has gone up some and i thing that it has caused the mounts to soften up a bit because there's not that much noise anymore.
but initially there was so much noise that i wanted to take them off right away but it was dark. on the up side the transmission
and engine don't move much. i was thinking about getting a torque damper but now i don't need one, the engine is still as can be. the mounts are not for everyone, if you don't mind the extra noise get them. if you do, get stock mounts and polyurethane them.
the mounts were $100 shipped from projectnissan.com so for that price i got a hat to add to my collection of nissan memorabilia.
intro
now that i have a digital camera and some free time i thought i'd do a write up on my latest install. this is a very easy procedure and i thought i'd show just how easy it is. the stock engine mounts are kind of soft so i thought i'd go with some stiffer but not solid mounts.
first assemble all your tools. i used the following.
1. jack
2. jack stands
3. bottle jack
4. 3/8" ratchet with 14mm socket
5. 3/8" torque wrench
6. 12" 3/8" extension with swivel extension
7. 14 mm wratchet wrench
8. 14mm wrench
1. get your car on the jack stands.
the best place for the stands to go under would be the cross member. it's the strongest surface you'll
find underneath. i've read of some placing the stands under the radiator core supports but i'd advise
against that.
2. remove 14 mm nuts and bolts that hold the mount on the cross member and engine.
first remove the nut that secure the mount to the cross member, remove only one side first. now place the bottle jack under the flat part of the engine that butts up against the transmission. only jack it up about and inch, this is only to suspend the engine while you replace the mount.
now the 4 bolts that attach the mount to the engine. having a header and not the stock manifold made things really easy. once the bolts are off just pull the mount out.
3. disassemble old mount assemble new mount.
in this step you want to pay attention to where the tabs are on the bottom of both mounts. this is important so don't put it together wrong.
4. install the new mount.
go in revers order first the 4 bolts. to torque them you'll need the swivel extension. now lower the bottle jack and make sure that the tab on the mount is in the slot on the cross member and torque that nut too. your done with one side now the passenger side.
5. passenger side.
i'll summarize here because the passenger side is done just like the driver side but not as easily because of the limited space. i had to use the 12" extension with the swivel to get to the bolts but the nut on the bottom of the mount was more accessible.
6. lower car
just as it says after making sure everything is nice and tight get the car off the stands and your done.
7.concuseion.
all in all the mounts are much stiffer than stock. when i first turned the car on the inside rattled so bad i thought the car would fall apart. i was worried that the excuse vibration would damage the slot on the cross member were the nut is so i placed a flat washer there to make sure that that didn't happen. the temperature has gone up some and i thing that it has caused the mounts to soften up a bit because there's not that much noise anymore.
but initially there was so much noise that i wanted to take them off right away but it was dark. on the up side the transmission
and engine don't move much. i was thinking about getting a torque damper but now i don't need one, the engine is still as can be. the mounts are not for everyone, if you don't mind the extra noise get them. if you do, get stock mounts and polyurethane them.
the mounts were $100 shipped from projectnissan.com so for that price i got a hat to add to my collection of nissan memorabilia.
Last edited by jramosthe1st!; 02-15-2009 at 03:29 PM.
03-23-2007, 08:01 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: VA
Posts: 434
nice! I'm using the same mounts. You sort of indirectly answered my question.
The cusco mount with the slant on it, I put on the drivers side and the normal more rectangular mount I put on the passenger side. I figured the slant was there to provide more clearance for the power steering lines/column.
How close are the mounts to the power steering lines using the rectangular mount on the driver side?
I may switch mine around to mimic yours... but I think they're interchangeable. I sorta like my idea more too :-p
Good write up. Your torque specs didn't give the ft lbs. If I remember right the bolts holding the brackets to the block should be torqued 33 ft lbs, the nuts holding the mount to the lower sub frame should be 58 ft lbs...
Cheers.
The cusco mount with the slant on it, I put on the drivers side and the normal more rectangular mount I put on the passenger side. I figured the slant was there to provide more clearance for the power steering lines/column.
How close are the mounts to the power steering lines using the rectangular mount on the driver side?
I may switch mine around to mimic yours... but I think they're interchangeable. I sorta like my idea more too :-p
Good write up. Your torque specs didn't give the ft lbs. If I remember right the bolts holding the brackets to the block should be torqued 33 ft lbs, the nuts holding the mount to the lower sub frame should be 58 ft lbs...
Cheers.
03-23-2007, 08:07 PM
#4
Good info Ramos. This is a good mod for those who are more into spirited driving,etc that want a more solid feel. Cuz I know the vibrations & noise can be a huge unpleasentry to some.
But hey sometimes you gotta sacrifice comfort for performance!
But hey sometimes you gotta sacrifice comfort for performance!
03-23-2007, 08:25 PM
#5
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: kennewick wa.
Posts: 2,324
nice! I'm using the same mounts. You sort of indirectly answered my question.
The cusco mount with the slant on it, I put on the drivers side and the normal more rectangular mount I put on the passenger side. I figured the slant was there to provide more clearance for the power steering lines/column.
How close are the mounts to the power steering lines using the rectangular mount on the driver side?
I may switch mine around to mimic yours... but I think they're interchangeable. I sorta like my idea more too :-p
Good write up. Your torque specs didn't give the ft lbs. If I remember right the bolts holding the brackets to the block should be torqued 33 ft lbs, the nuts holding the mount to the lower sub frame should be 58 ft lbs...
Cheers.
The cusco mount with the slant on it, I put on the drivers side and the normal more rectangular mount I put on the passenger side. I figured the slant was there to provide more clearance for the power steering lines/column.
How close are the mounts to the power steering lines using the rectangular mount on the driver side?
I may switch mine around to mimic yours... but I think they're interchangeable. I sorta like my idea more too :-p
Good write up. Your torque specs didn't give the ft lbs. If I remember right the bolts holding the brackets to the block should be torqued 33 ft lbs, the nuts holding the mount to the lower sub frame should be 58 ft lbs...
Cheers.
03-24-2007, 12:13 PM
#7
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: kennewick wa.
Posts: 2,324
nice! I'm using the same mounts. You sort of indirectly answered my question.
The cusco mount with the slant on it, I put on the drivers side and the normal more rectangular mount I put on the passenger side. I figured the slant was there to provide more clearance for the power steering lines/column.
How close are the mounts to the power steering lines using the rectangular mount on the driver side?
I may switch mine around to mimic yours... but I think they're interchangeable. I sorta like my idea more too :-p
Good write up. Your torque specs didn't give the ft lbs. If I remember right the bolts holding the brackets to the block should be torqued 33 ft lbs, the nuts holding the mount to the lower sub frame should be 58 ft lbs...
Cheers.
The cusco mount with the slant on it, I put on the drivers side and the normal more rectangular mount I put on the passenger side. I figured the slant was there to provide more clearance for the power steering lines/column.
How close are the mounts to the power steering lines using the rectangular mount on the driver side?
I may switch mine around to mimic yours... but I think they're interchangeable. I sorta like my idea more too :-p
Good write up. Your torque specs didn't give the ft lbs. If I remember right the bolts holding the brackets to the block should be torqued 33 ft lbs, the nuts holding the mount to the lower sub frame should be 58 ft lbs...
Cheers.
the reason they slant is because you got installed them on the wrong side. but if you got them to fit and the tap lands in the slot of the cross member i'd leave them alone.
the cusco mount are a bit wider than stock but not too wide that there is any problem with the p/s lines.
yes 33 and 58ft lbs is what i used. i tried to keep the write up as short as possible without excluding the majors points. otherwise a lengthy explanation would give the impression that there is more work involved than is really necessary.
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