S13 KA24DE Engine Removal - S-Chassis.com

Go Back  S-Chassis.com > General Discussions > How Tos / Installations
Reload this Page >

S13 KA24DE Engine Removal

How Tos / Installations Post or link to your detailed how to / installation articles in here. If you have any questions regarding the how tos, feel free to post them in the Request sub-forum.

S13 KA24DE Engine Removal

Reply

 
 
 
Old 12-16-2007, 09:59 PM
  #1  
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
 
positron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Starkville, MS.
Posts: 1,192
S13 KA24DE Engine Removal

I took some pictures to document the removal of my KA in preparation for my engine swap. I did this write-up to help anyone with little mechanical knowledge, like me Name:  dunce.gif
Views: 587
Size:  929 Bytes, who would be wanting to attempt to do an engine swap themselves in the future and are skeptical about the procedure. I'm not doing this myself because I don't want to spend the money to have a professional shop do it Name:  spend.gif
Views: 564
Size:  1.6 KB but because I have been building this car with my own hands, I've done the frontend conversion, suspension, climate, steering wheel, seats, brakes, exhaust, etc. and completing the engine swap myself would be the icing on the cake. I want this to be as complete as possible so if anyone notices something that I missed...please chime in and add to the write-up.Name:  dunno.gif
Views: 556
Size:  275 Bytes

Tools needed:
Jack
Jackstands
Wrenchs
Socket wrench
Sockets(different sizes)
Hammer
Screwdrivers(flathead/phillips)
Needle nose pliers
Prybar
Drain pan
Line wrench 10mm

My car is a '93 240SX with a KA24DE engine. This isn't a complete write-up on removing the engine because my car doesn't have emissions or the A/C components so those of you with those will have to look elsewhere about how to handle those systems. I'm just a regular joe doing this swap in the driveway of my apartment with handtools and time.

Name:  IMG_1542.jpg
Views: 1048
Size:  98.2 KB
The first thing I did was to relieve the fuel pressure so when I remove the fuel lines in the engine bay I won't have fuel squirting all over the place.
Name:  IMG_0880.jpg
Views: 1069
Size:  68.9 KB
To relieve fuel pressure go to the engine bay and pull the fuel pump fuse 15A from the fuse block, loosen your fuel tank cap, crank the car and run it until it stalls out.
Name:  IMG_1545.jpg
Views: 1100
Size:  69.6 KB
Next, I removed the battery cables and pulled the battery. You can put the fuel pump fuse back now.
Name:  IMG_1546.jpg
Views: 814
Size:  115.0 KB
Done!
Name:  IMG_1592.jpg
Views: 680
Size:  97.2 KB
If you have a front strut tower bar now would be a good time to remove it as well. Six 14mm bolts.
Name:  IMG_1589.jpg
Views: 1030
Size:  96.4 KB
Use a 14mm wrench to loosen the throttle cable nut.
Name:  IMG_1590.jpg
Views: 794
Size:  97.4 KB
Done!
Name:  IMG_1543.jpg
Views: 652
Size:  107.4 KB
I removed the MAF plug from the MAF sensor.
Name:  IMG_1544.jpg
Views: 640
Size:  104.9 KB
Then the air filter...
Name:  IMG_1547.jpg
Views: 618
Size:  120.4 KB
and the piping to free up some room.
Name:  IMG_1549.jpg
Views: 765
Size:  102.6 KB
Done!
After removing the battery, the throttle cable and the intake I concentrated on draining all my fluids, powersteering, transmission, oil, coolant and clutch.
Name:  IMG_1552.jpg
Views: 817
Size:  80.3 KB
I began with the powersteering fluid by disconecting the two small hoses coming from the P/S resevoir...
Name:  IMG_1553.jpg
Views: 1309
Size:  88.2 KB
and draining the fluid into a bottle.
Name:  IMG_1554.jpg
Views: 610
Size:  146.7 KB
Done! Gatorade's newest flavor...P/S grape mango...have some!?
Name:  IMG_0189.jpg
Views: 655
Size:  72.9 KB
Of course there's some fluid remaining in the P/S pump and the steering rack so I just capped them off to prevent any spillage. Go ahead and remove the powersteering banjo bolt with a 23mm socket. Now you can take the P/S pressure hose off the P/S pump.

Last edited by positron; 12-17-2007 at 01:20 AM.
positron is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2007, 10:00 PM
  #2  
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
 
positron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Starkville, MS.
Posts: 1,192
Now for the transmission fluid, jack the front of the car up and place jackstands in the appropriate places.
Name:  IMG_1563.jpg
Views: 627
Size:  145.5 KB
You'll need a socket wrench with a 3/8 adapter for the transmission drain plug.
Name:  IMG_1555.jpg
Views: 820
Size:  94.3 KB
The transmission drain plug is located directly beneath the transmission.
Name:  IMG_1556.jpg
Views: 2306
Size:  106.1 KB
Insert the socket into the drain plug and remove it, be sure to have your drain pan ready to move into place to catch the flowing tranny fluid.
Name:  IMG_1562.jpg
Views: 642
Size:  74.2 KB
Done!
Name:  IMG_1564.jpg
Views: 616
Size:  153.8 KB
To drain the engine oil you need a 14mm socket.
Name:  IMG_1565.jpg
Views: 635
Size:  88.3 KB
Remove the oil pan drain plug....
Name:  IMG_1566.jpg
Views: 884
Size:  79.0 KB
and have your drain pan ready for the oil.
Name:  IMG_1567.jpg
Views: 625
Size:  79.3 KB
Done!
Now to drain the radiator coolant.
Name:  IMG_1571.jpg
Views: 698
Size:  67.6 KB
The radiator drain plug is located on the bottom corner of the right side of the radiator.
Name:  IMG_1569.jpg
Views: 1051
Size:  77.5 KB
To remove the plug just use a phillipshead screwdriver.
Name:  IMG_1574.jpg
Views: 627
Size:  69.9 KB
Drain the coolant out.
Name:  IMG_1575.jpg
Views: 614
Size:  96.4 KB
One interesting thing I noticed was that because of the pressure inside the radiator I could use the radiator cap to control how fast or slow the coolant flowed as it drained, just like the controls on a faucet.
Name:  IMG_1576.jpg
Views: 601
Size:  101.3 KB
Empty.
Name:  IMG_1578.jpg
Views: 623
Size:  87.0 KB
Next, use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the hose for the coolant reserve tank.
Name:  IMG_1583.jpg
Views: 618
Size:  88.8 KB
You can let it drain off into the pan as well.
Name:  IMG_1579.jpg
Views: 643
Size:  94.1 KB
Now you need to remove the upper radiator hose.
Name:  IMG_1585.jpg
Views: 965
Size:  109.1 KB
Done!
Name:  IMG_1580.jpg
Views: 626
Size:  76.1 KB
Remove the lower radiator hose.
Name:  IMG_1584.jpg
Views: 619
Size:  74.3 KB
Done!
Name:  IMG_1586.jpg
Views: 623
Size:  99.3 KB
Next use a 10mm socket to remove both radiator brackets....
Name:  IMG_1587.jpg
Views: 618
Size:  92.2 KB
and now you can pull the radiator.
Name:  IMG_1588.jpg
Views: 629
Size:  114.7 KB
Finished with the rad.
Finally you need to drain the clutch fluid by way of the clutch slave cylinder which is located on the bottom of the transmission.
Name:  IMG_1679.jpg
Views: 686
Size:  84.1 KB
The clutch line is attached to the chassis of the car with this bracket which was not even attached on my car, not to mention the fubared way that my clutch hardline is kinked up. I'm gonna have to replace this hardline when I prep the engine bay, I don't like the "bendy straw" status of this hardline. The previous owner of this car was an idjot, yeah I mean id-jot!Name:  dunce.gif
Views: 553
Size:  929 Bytes
Name:  IMG_1680.jpg
Views: 920
Size:  87.1 KB
There is a bleeder screw on the side of the slave cylinder which can be used but since I am removing this engine and transmission I just disconnected the clutch line from the chassis hardline and drained the clutch fluid into a bottle.
Name:  IMG_1469.jpg
Views: 630
Size:  86.6 KB
I used a 10mm line wrench to remove the clutch hardline from the clutch softline...god bless the line wrench!

Last edited by positron; 12-17-2007 at 01:30 AM.
positron is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2007, 10:01 PM
  #3  
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
 
positron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Starkville, MS.
Posts: 1,192
That concludes the draining of the fluids, now I'm going to disconnect the driveshaft. Jack the rear of the car up and place your jackstands.
Name:  IMG_1663.jpg
Views: 649
Size:  93.8 KB
The driveshaft. To remove it you need a 14mm socket or wrench.
Name:  IMG_1665.jpg
Views: 624
Size:  84.6 KB
I ran into a problem here. I had a 14mm socket but it would not fit flush against the shaft because of its shape. I couldn't get the socket on either side of the driveshaft bolts so I used a 14mm wrench which I could get to sit flush and hit the end of the wrench with my 3lb. hammer(Mjollnir) to bust the nuts loose on the driveshaft bolts.
Name:  IMG_1667.jpg
Views: 609
Size:  86.1 KB
After you get each nut loose on the driveshaft, you need to go to the inside of the car and let the ebrake down...
Name:  IMG_1668.jpg
Views: 673
Size:  48.3 KB
so you can spin the driveshaft with your hands which will allow you to move the next driveshaft bolt/nut into position for removal. Let the ebrake back up so the shaft won't spin on you and keep going until you remove all four bolts/nuts.
Name:  IMG_1669.jpg
Views: 699
Size:  59.8 KB
Next, use a 17mm socket to remove the center bearing mounting brackets. There are two bolts on them.
Name:  IMG_1672.jpg
Views: 716
Size:  68.1 KB
After that I used my hammer to knock the driveshaft loose from the differential. I couldn't budge it with my hands.Name:  superhero.gif
Views: 562
Size:  1.5 KB
Name:  IMG_1673.jpg
Views: 618
Size:  70.5 KB
Driveshaft.
Name:  IMG_1674.jpg
Views: 662
Size:  80.0 KB
Use your hands to twist and pull the driveshaft from the transmission.
Name:  IMG_1675.jpg
Views: 623
Size:  80.4 KB
Done!
Name:  IMG_1676.jpg
Views: 603
Size:  38.7 KB
Stash something in the end of the tranny to keep any remaining fluid from dripping out.
Name:  IMG_1682.jpg
Views: 611
Size:  95.7 KB
Now for the shifter removal.
Name:  IMG_1683.jpg
Views: 616
Size:  95.6 KB
Remove the trim plate and center console.
Name:  IMG_1684.jpg
Views: 640
Size:  50.8 KB
Remove your shift ****.
Name:  IMG_1685.jpg
Views: 619
Size:  107.0 KB
Use a phillipshead screwdriver to remove the four bolts on the shift lever rubber boot.
Name:  IMG_1686.jpg
Views: 624
Size:  113.5 KB

Name:  IMG_1687.jpg
Views: 628
Size:  99.0 KB
Two bolts here.
Name:  IMG_1688.jpg
Views: 623
Size:  85.3 KB

Name:  IMG_1689.jpg
Views: 622
Size:  105.7 KB
Now you can pull the shifter out. I'm certain again that someone has messed up this car in the past because there was no snap rings on my shifter that needed to be removed which was quite odd.
Name:  IMG_1690.jpg
Views: 698
Size:  101.1 KB

Name:  IMG_1691.jpg
Views: 698
Size:  116.0 KB

Name:  IMG_1692.jpg
Views: 624
Size:  81.6 KB
Finished with the shifter removal.

Last edited by positron; 09-30-2008 at 01:08 AM.
positron is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2007, 10:02 PM
  #4  
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
 
positron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Starkville, MS.
Posts: 1,192
Now I'm going to remove the grounds.
Name:  IMG_1591.jpg
Views: 670
Size:  86.0 KB
I started with the battery cable grounded to the engine. 10mm socket.
Name:  IMG_1660.jpg
Views: 603
Size:  93.4 KB
10mm socket here. Not sure where this ground is coming from?
Name:  IMG_1594.jpg
Views: 626
Size:  73.1 KB
10mm or a phillipshead screwdriver for the shock tower.
Name:  IMG_1596.jpg
Views: 1995
Size:  83.5 KB
10mm wrench for the alternator ground.
Name:  IMG_1710.jpg
Views: 876
Size:  99.6 KB
Alternator grounds.
Name:  IMG_1597.jpg
Views: 621
Size:  68.8 KB
10mm for the starter ground.
Name:  IMG_1598.jpg
Views: 727
Size:  85.1 KB
Use a phillipshead screwdriver to remove this ground from the engine to the firewall.
Name:  IMG_1599.jpg
Views: 670
Size:  98.5 KB
Battery tray.
Name:  IMG_1623.jpg
Views: 952
Size:  85.4 KB
This is another ground on the rear of the engine near the back of the exhaust manifold.

After that I moved on to the engine harness itself.
Name:  IMG_1593.jpg
Views: 1367
Size:  77.0 KB
I started by disconneting all the plugs of the upper engine harness in the engine bay.
Name:  IMG_1602.jpg
Views: 620
Size:  100.0 KB
Two plugs near the battery tray for light control I believe.
Name:  IMG_1603.jpg
Views: 621
Size:  99.2 KB
Done!
Name:  IMG_1609.jpg
Views: 623
Size:  107.8 KB
Not sure what this plug is for?
Name:  IMG_1610.jpg
Views: 606
Size:  80.3 KB
Or this one?
Name:  IMG_1611.jpg
Views: 2123
Size:  80.7 KB
Coolant temp sensor and coolant temp guage sender.
Name:  IMG_1620.jpg
Views: 638
Size:  111.9 KB
The four fuel injector harnesses.
Name:  IMG_1607.jpg
Views: 721
Size:  94.2 KB
You need a 10mm socket to remove two bolts on this cover before you can get the injector harnesses off.
Name:  IMG_1616.jpg
Views: 1604
Size:  77.0 KB
Distributor.
Name:  IMG_1543.jpg
Views: 669
Size:  107.4 KB
MAF.
Name:  IMG_1613.jpg
Views: 601
Size:  99.7 KB
Powersteering pump.
Name:  IMG_1614.jpg
Views: 1214
Size:  64.7 KB
The ignition coil has two harnesses, this one...
Name:  IMG_1615.jpg
Views: 1032
Size:  67.8 KB
and this one. You'll also have to remove the ignition coil, two 10mm bolts take it right off...
Name:  IMG_1618.jpg
Views: 1279
Size:  95.9 KB
so that you can remove the ground on it. Go ahead and disconnect the spark plug wire while you're at it.
Name:  IMG_1621.jpg
Views: 657
Size:  102.3 KB
The rear of the valve cover.
Name:  IMG_1622.jpg
Views: 785
Size:  87.3 KB
The O2 sensor.
Name:  IMG_1619.jpg
Views: 609
Size:  101.5 KB
Done!
Name:  IMG_1626.jpg
Views: 572
Size:  107.8 KB
Now to disconnect the harness from the ECU and pull it through the firewall.

Last edited by positron; 12-17-2007 at 02:00 AM.
positron is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2007, 10:03 PM
  #5  
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
 
positron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Starkville, MS.
Posts: 1,192
Name:  IMG_1628.jpg
Views: 561
Size:  69.1 KB
You need to remove the glovebox and kick panel to get to the ECU and the wiring harness.
Name:  IMG_1629.jpg
Views: 573
Size:  90.7 KB
Use a phillipshead screwdriver to remove the two screws on the glovebox mounting tabs.
Name:  IMG_1633.jpg
Views: 565
Size:  76.5 KB
Name:  IMG_1635.jpg
Views: 574
Size:  73.9 KB
Remove the four bolts holding the glovebox reinforcement.
Name:  IMG_1636.jpg
Views: 511
Size:  66.6 KB
Next you need to remove the clips and bolts holding the kick panel on.
Name:  IMG_1637.jpg
Views: 518
Size:  124.3 KB
Rocker panel.
Name:  IMG_1638.jpg
Views: 514
Size:  60.8 KB
Door jam.
Name:  IMG_1639.jpg
Views: 510
Size:  99.7 KB
Lower kick panel.
Name:  IMG_1640.jpg
Views: 505
Size:  64.7 KB
Upper kick panel near the kick panel light.
Name:  IMG_1641.jpg
Views: 507
Size:  83.9 KB
Done, but don't yank it out...
Name:  IMG_1642.jpg
Views: 499
Size:  93.7 KB
because you have to disconnect the harness for the kick panel light.
Name:  IMG_1644.jpg
Views: 507
Size:  87.8 KB
ECU and wiring harness.
Name:  IMG_1646.jpg
Views: 505
Size:  79.3 KB
Use a phillipshead screwdriver to remove the two bolts holding the ECU to the chassis. This is the lower bolt...
Name:  IMG_1647.jpg
Views: 494
Size:  54.3 KB
and this is the upper bolt.
Name:  IMG_1648.jpg
Views: 504
Size:  71.8 KB
Done!
Name:  IMG_1649.jpg
Views: 500
Size:  49.8 KB
Disconnect this brown harness.
Name:  IMG_1652.jpg
Views: 501
Size:  101.6 KB
Use a 10mm socket to remove the bolt holding the wiring harness to the ECU.
Name:  IMG_1653.jpg
Views: 495
Size:  79.2 KB
Done!
Name:  IMG_1654.jpg
Views: 491
Size:  62.2 KB
ECU
Name:  IMG_1655.jpg
Views: 495
Size:  58.9 KB
There is another harness that needs to be unplugged here.
Name:  IMG_1656.jpg
Views: 487
Size:  59.2 KB
There is a fastener on the wiring harness that holds it to the chassis here...remove it.
Name:  IMG_1657.jpg
Views: 498
Size:  72.6 KB
Use a prybar to remove the rubber stopper on the firewall.
Name:  IMG_1658.jpg
Views: 497
Size:  76.0 KB
Slowly start pulling the wiring harness through the hole in the firewall.
Name:  IMG_1659.jpg
Views: 497
Size:  97.4 KB
You may have to go inside and work it through but eventually it comes out.
Name:  IMG_1661.jpg
Views: 500
Size:  136.3 KB
Done! Upper engine harness. If you plan to have the wiring done through a wiring service you will need your SR, CA, RB, etc. wiring harness and the KA upper engine wiring harness to send out to them.

Last edited by positron; 09-30-2008 at 01:09 AM.
positron is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-16-2007, 10:04 PM
  #6  
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
 
positron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Starkville, MS.
Posts: 1,192
After that I checked the engine bay for any other things connected to the engine, mainly the lower engine harness for plugs still connected to the car.
Name:  IMG_1696.jpg
Views: 503
Size:  109.0 KB
These two.
Name:  IMG_1703.jpg
Views: 489
Size:  97.5 KB
This one was from the starter.
Name:  IMG_1704.jpg
Views: 497
Size:  95.0 KB
Not sure about this one.
Name:  IMG_1702.jpg
Views: 492
Size:  49.1 KB
Alternator harness.
Name:  IMG_1706.jpg
Views: 494
Size:  100.4 KB
Oil pressure sender.
Name:  IMG_1709.jpg
Views: 492
Size:  85.3 KB
I'm gonna be glad to get rid of this oil leak. Front main seal went out so no more autocrossing for me.
Name:  IMG_1697.jpg
Views: 491
Size:  73.9 KB
I also removed the heater hoses from the rear of the engine going to the firewall. There are two of them.
Name:  IMG_1698.jpg
Views: 481
Size:  42.8 KB
The fuel filter hoses need to be removed also.
Name:  IMG_1705.jpg
Views: 492
Size:  83.0 KB
Done!
Name:  IMG_1604.jpg
Views: 489
Size:  89.6 KB
The brake booster hose needs to be disconnected from the engine. Use a 10mm socket to remove this bracket.
Name:  IMG_1606.jpg
Views: 484
Size:  95.9 KB
Done!
Name:  IMG_1605.jpg
Views: 487
Size:  80.7 KB
Use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the end of the brake booster hose from the engine here.

Finally, I removed the motor/transmission mount bolts.
Name:  IMG_1678.jpg
Views: 484
Size:  73.6 KB
You need a 19mm socket to remove the four transmission crossmember bolts. My car only had 3 crossmember bolts on it....WTF!!!
Name:  IMG_1677.jpg
Views: 480
Size:  106.4 KB
You need a 15mm socket to remove the left and right motor mount nuts, one under the exhaust manifold and the other located under the intake manifold near the oil filter.
From this point the engine is ready to be chained and hoisted out of the engine bay. I will update this thread with pics when I get a hoist and pull the motor.

Last edited by positron; 12-17-2007 at 02:34 AM.
positron is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2007, 11:44 AM
  #7  
Registered User
 
240tuned91's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: New jersey
Posts: 31
nice work
240tuned91 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2007, 02:58 PM
  #8  
Contributing Member
 
crazydrifter's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: VA
Posts: 510
i expected a... Done! at the end haha nice write up
crazydrifter is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2007, 05:36 PM
  #9  
Contributing Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 2,069
cool guy, cool writeup. noice

sticky?
MS!3 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2007, 08:42 PM
  #10  
Registered User
 
Spade's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Weston Florida
Posts: 188
good write up. this shud come in hand in a year or so from now
Spade is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2007, 10:46 PM
  #11  
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
Darkvillin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Toms River, NJ & Conway, AR
Posts: 489
i just want to say that this write up is amazing. thank you for the details and the pictures that go with them. keep up the awsome work.
Darkvillin is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2007, 08:18 AM
  #12  
Contributing Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Biggamehit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Misawa, Japan
Posts: 5,091
good job bro.. with all the engine swaps i have done.. i should have been had this up there.. some of the steps i dont use, but awesome work

thank you
Biggamehit is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2007, 08:27 AM
  #13  
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: long beach, ca
Posts: 198
Wow. It looks like it took longer to write up this post w/pictures than it did to actually remove the engine. Thanks, this is good stuff!
k_wakasugi is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2007, 03:31 PM
  #14  
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
 
positron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Starkville, MS.
Posts: 1,192
Update!!!

I got a engine hoist and pulled my KA yesterday. There were only a few things that I needed to do before pulling it but it went very smoothly. I bought a 5ft. chain and two links from Lowes and we were ready to get to it.
Name:  IMG_1704.jpg
Views: 482
Size:  95.0 KB
First off, this harness which I couldn't identify before turns out to be the speed sensor harness.
Name:  IMG_1746.jpg
Views: 478
Size:  88.0 KB
The speed sensor which you will need to remove with a 10mm wrench and unscrew so you can swap it to the SR. After that, I only had to remove the bolts on the header connecting it to the exhaust manifold and the cat.
Name:  IMG_1747.jpg
Views: 475
Size:  83.4 KB
Remove the hood latch, four bolts with a 12mm socket.
Name:  IMG_1748.jpg
Views: 481
Size:  76.2 KB
Chain the engine up good, we ran a chain through the intake and exhaust runners...
Name:  IMG_1749.jpg
Views: 482
Size:  90.5 KB
and pull her out slowly. Be careful of the firewall clearance so go slowly and when you get the block clear of the bay have someone get into the bay and pick up on the transmission which is light because the hoist is supporting all the weight. You can then pull it completely out and you are done!

Last edited by positron; 01-01-2008 at 11:40 AM.
positron is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-2008, 11:10 AM
  #15  
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: medicine hat alberta
Posts: 62
awesome write up i hope this gets stikied so i can use this guide when i do mine in a few months time
derrick_240 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Reply
 
 
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
positron
How Tos / Installations
4
08-29-2011 06:39 AM
MrIllegalX
Audio, Video and Security
1
05-10-2005 04:06 PM
md66948
Engine Swaps
1
07-20-2004 05:33 PM
spoolin240
Drivetrain
3
06-27-2004 08:32 AM
junk240sx
Turbo Motor
3
02-14-2004 03:29 PM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread