i dont know what it will do to a stock motor... i know on my there was more problems keeping them than removing them...

 

The stock butterflies take up space in the mani, this means aspiration is harder for the engine to obtain air......
This is one of the reasons why the KA is an anemic 2.4 litre, besides the fact it has small ports, a long mani, and a small TB.....
These are all issues that need to be corrected with the KA besides the EMS........
You guys may think this is stupid but if you buy this retarded device called the Tornado it will atomize the fuel to air for cold weather conditions if you are really that concerned........
It should be installed right infront of the TB........

Wikd where ya been lately playa playa.........
I see yur I.M on sometimes but no responce from da peanut gallery.............

 

If it snows where you live then Yes, but out here in Sunny Coastal Cali I don't get that problem........

 

i been workin like mad vinnie... too dam many hours at work means no hours here... besides that im getting another welding cert so i have been practicin my welding to make sure i pass this test... it means a 2 dollar an hour raise... so hell yeah im doing it... besides the company pays for me to practice as well as pay for the x ray and the pressure brake tests...

 

ok i removed my second butterflys and left the rod in there.. to lazy to plug the holes.. no change in idle.. little tiny loss of low end torque but yes makes a diff.. many spinny spinny tire

 

Thats cool man if you ever have time to come out to Cali you might want to help me with my welding project.........
I'm going to run dual Mani/KA throttle bodies, I have this nice lincoln electric that needs to be broken in a bit, what pressure do I need to run the ARGON/NOS mixture at???????? When it runs too rich I get too much carbon around where I am welding, then the thread melts in the gun.... Do i need to change the pressure to the rate that the thread is moving or to the level of ARC volts....... Right now I am doing tacks at setting in between d and e arc, and a thread feed speed of 6....... Do you know what I'm talking about? If I don't run enough gas it doesn't make a nice enough bead, what the FUC% am I doing wrong????????
Where the fuc% can I rent a pipe bender at? I need to bend some 90 degree angles..............

 

dont rent a pipe bender... get one at harbor freight... and them bolt it to a cement floor... they work better than renting one... hard work using one of them but it is worth it... it can bend heavy gague steel if you go a strong enough arm...

as far as your argon nos mixture... i have never welded with argon.nos but our argon is set at 11 psi on a merc gague... i dont know what that translates into a real gague pressure... your gas flow needs to match the wire flow and temp range...and the crappy bead can also be caused by outrunning your wire feed... if you are faster than it is you will have clumps and your bead will be all kinds of bumpy... then the other problem is... if you dont tie in your sides good enough it will look you have cliffs around your weld... or as they are called wagon tracks... see why i like stick welding??? it is no where near as hard...

 

sorry Big V. but the 91-early 95 have butterfly's, the late 95 - 98 do not. also obd2 started late 95-98

 

cause of newbness wouth this have anything to do with a 90 sohc??

 

I still haven't seen a clear statement as to if this can be done to a s14 ka w/ obdII. I have a 96 dohc and just want to know if I can do this to my engine. Tried to search for this (search: "butterly removal") and for a write-up on how to in S14 but haven't found too many answers. Saw dkdeleon write up in "2nd butterly removal" thread but it's not clear if this can be done to s14. I live in Orlando, FL so we don't get anywhere close to freezing.

 

it can be done on any motor with the secondary butterflys...some mid 95 and all 96 and up dont have the butterflys...

 

yup, the sohc manifolds have the secondary butterfly valves also

 

is there anyway to check if they are working properly (with out taking it off?)

 

on the firewall end of the intake manifold there will be an actuator with a vacum line running to it, and the arm will be attached to a short shaft mounted onto a triangle shaped piece which is part of the rod that runs through the manifold, but the only way I can think of to test it is to disconnect that acuator arm and make sure they open and close freely, but if you feel any binding or sticking then there might be something wrong with the butterfly valves, and also check your vacum lines for cracks or anything

 

cool beans yo