RB20S13

yea as the title says i want to bulid a N/A KA24DE what do u guys think i should do to about 200whp not having to do alot of machine work and not having to spend a billion dollars on the engine. (got a engine sitting in my basement ready to go and dont ask how i got it down there) AKA about 240 hp at the crank

Waynehead05

200 hp is very doable for daiily driving. good luck with the project.

BigVinnie

iTrader: (2)

Does the car need to pass smog?????
Do you plan on internally building up the engine or just as minor as cam install??? What are you looking to spend? What model year KA24de is it?

RB20S13

its out of a 92 240sx (i have a 89 240) i'm talking increasing the comprestion, ext and it does not need to pass for 2 years

wikd240

i have done a fully built kade motor and have only pulled out 197 bhp... and had it been my motor i would still have dyno sheets for you to look at but anyway...

the parts selection was not mine i just put together what i was given to work with...

stock block honed decked and cleaned...
nissan stock factory crank counter ballanced knife edged micro polished... The crankshaft counterweights were then coated with an oil-shedding coating by Polymer Dynamics, better known to engine builders as PolyDyn.
je forged 1990 sohc pistons...The top of the piston has a PolyDyn synthetic polymer ceramic coating that can protect the piston from high heat soak...The piston skirts are coated with a material called PolyDyn RP...
total seal rings...
nismo bearings...
copper head gasket...
gude head and cams... race port and polish their biggest cams ( i did not measure them so i cant give you the specs)...
rev hard springs locks and retainers...
dc header...
accel 52 lb/hr injectors...
and a cut down extrude honed intake with egr block off...
dc header...
cheap egay pully set...
cheap egay adjustable timing gears with new chains guides and tensioners...
compression ratio was 10.4:1 with the custom head gasket and the head work... timing was set to 23 degrees btdc ngk plugs magnacore wires and an msd 6al with a blaster 2 coil...

from what i was told about the dyno pulls are that the intake manifold needs to have more work done to it to get more power out of the motor... all of the above parts are not cheap... the gude head and cams was almost 1800 bucks with shipping... then there are all the other parts as well as the coatings (quite expensive) that added up to almost 5600 dollars... and it still did not make 200 bhp...

with more work done to the intake it could have gone over 200 bhp... the motor spun 8400 rpms befor there was a drastic loss of power as the rpms went any higher... (valve spring bind imo)

the quest for 250 bhp continues as soon as i get someone else needing another motor... but this time im going to have the dyno work done here in tn instead of sending the motor out to the owner (utah in this case...)

BigVinnie

iTrader: (2)

Hey Wicked. I emailed one of my friends that has a friend that works at Gude and specializes in Honda. He claims that you can take the KA24de head in for head work, but they do not seem to offer any cam specs for the KA24de (it's no where in there parts inventory). All they have on file are specs for the SR, and they now offer head work for the sr as well.
On another note. If that is all correct info, then all you need is an ecu tune. To put you well over 230CHP.
As for me my christmas gift to myself is a set of JWT cams, and they should be installed in Febuary. I will gaurantee 200CHP with cams, ecu tune, full exhaust system and bored tb (no internal work yet)........

Levi SPL S14

wait why build a KA

dont you have and RB20?

wikd240

gude will grind cams for the ka... call and talk to bill... i have worked with him for over 7 years... i called him and asked about the cams as well... and he did grind a few sets for the ka... he did mention that they are a few years old but they were made by bill and the bullfrog boys... the motor was shipped pack to utah and i dont know where they are running with their tuning... i have not gotten back into touch with the guy that had the motor done to see if they are in any better place... will check after new years to see if there are any new reports...

Initial Daniel

All-motor is expensive. I was considering doing the work on my Honda, way back when, but I supercharged it, because it was more cost efficient, and gave me the reliability I was looking for.

Pound for pound though--if you want power, Turbo is your answer.

BigVinnie

iTrader: (2)

Agreed all motor is expensive. But when it comes to reliability, and fuel economy you can't beat a high compression NA engine.
Lower engine tempratures, and just the natural aspiration put's less stress on internals making it much more reliable if built right.
In grand touring NA engines are known to withstand the harsh conditions of rev on track use. You should also understand that the power band for NA is much smoother than FI, and that it does take time for a turbo to spool to make power.
Can it be expensive????YES.... Is it worth the investment?? YES....

Now IMO head port the intake side of the head and do it your self.
You can go with SOHC pistons which is a great budget at about $50 a piston. If you know that you will put your engine through extreme high rev abuse I would get some titanium retainers and springs for the valve train. With the large stroke of the KA I would invest into stronger rods, especially if you know you are going to keep your engine in redline for long periods of time. Knife edge the crank and add a crank scraper, it will break windage, and decrease weight from the crank increasing HP and rev. Look for a dry sump oil system they work the best.
If you are going to bore for a rebuild I have been told that a.020 bore is perfect, and keeps the engine well balanced, plus it helps to keep rev high, and will slightly raise compression a bit more.
Focus on good cams no matter what hands down the JWT cams are the best from what every one has told me. You can go with tghe PDMS as well, but it would be better if you are looking for a torquey engine. JWT provides a little more high end power.
Your engine is only as strong as your engine management get a good tune. you can get a biki rom for $300 that gives your ecu retuning as many times as needed or you can go with a jim wolfe tune for $600.
I hate rating injectors by LB.s so I will just say that injection within the 300~330cc injection is more what the engine will demand. A fuel pump will need to be required so you can go OEM with the SR, VG30 fuel pumps, or stick with a wallbro 255.
There will need to be bolt on requirements. I will recomend a TB bore. I've done this before on NA honda engines and it has always showed major improvement.
Then you must have a high flow cat, and a good flowing header, or your build would be pointless.

xXsilviaXx

so would u put cams to a higher priority then header/cat/catback combo?

BigVinnie

iTrader: (2)

Well cam installs have always showed the highest gains. But I shouldn't be to opinionated to what people can afford. Engine management and cam installs have always showed the best improvements, but are sometimes not the most affordable way to get that power. For the price you can get a different variety of full exhaust systems (header, high flowCAT, cat back) ranging from $500~$1000, and upto a 20~23CHP gain......
High compression pistons don't really make alot of power unless the engine management has been retuned for new fuel and air ratio's.