NA Motor Discussions regarding N/A KA24E, KA24DE, and SR20DE

Confused about S13 SOHC ECU code

Old May 31, 2007 | 02:20 PM
  #16  
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its some emissions stuff. i just electrical taped that sensor and put it to the side once i removed all of my emissions equipment.

bro just really check ALLLL of your connections. physically check all vacuums and hoses for cracks, you cant see them sometimes, but you will feel them. if you can swap out for a working ecu to see if thats the source of your issue.
Old May 31, 2007 | 05:10 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Biggamehit
its some emissions stuff. i just electrical taped that sensor and put it to the side once i removed all of my emissions equipment.

bro just really check ALLLL of your connections. physically check all vacuums and hoses for cracks, you cant see them sometimes, but you will feel them. if you can swap out for a working ecu to see if thats the source of your issue.

YAY! well i replaced that MAF with that tiny sensor beside it from like 92 Stanza from junk yard looks like that problem is gone ) thanks for everything man i really do appreciate ya!
Old May 31, 2007 | 06:51 PM
  #18  
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AWESOME...

another satisfied customer i love that

Thank you come again and bring some tuner girls
Old Jun 1, 2007 | 10:23 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by MaximJ
So u replaced ur pump and the problem was gone? cuz i was thinking to do a walbro upgrade anyway, but before that i wanna check the pressure too... What did u use to measure the fuel pressure man?
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...9229_200329229

you don't have to buy the exact same one just make sure the gauge is a good quality one.

Last edited by jramosthe1st!; Jun 1, 2007 at 10:32 AM.
Old Jun 10, 2007 | 12:56 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by BigVinnie
You may want to check your TPS. It sounds as if the placement in degrees to the TB could be off so that you might not be getting a decent ratio.
You may also want to check the IACV as it can cause issues with low idle.
A bad MAF as BIGG said could pose those problems as well.
Check your injectors the O rings could be bad.
The vehicle speed sensor can cause slight issues with running rich on OBD1 engines so you should try to get that fixed.
Just my 2 cent's.
i also diagnosed code 14:vehicle speed sensor... my speedometer works only after the car has been running at high speed for a long period of time could this result in low idle speed or poor gas mileage?
Old Jun 10, 2007 | 01:59 PM
  #21  
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poor gas mileage usually means bad o2 sensor. (notice I said usually)
Old Jun 10, 2007 | 02:41 PM
  #22  
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or clogged Air filter, improperly inflated tires, poorly gapped sparked plugs, bad wires, dirty pcv, faulty injectors, clogged cat, etc just to name a few.
Old Jun 10, 2007 | 03:40 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Laconius240
i also diagnosed code 14:vehicle speed sensor... my speedometer works only after the car has been running at high speed for a long period of time could this result in low idle speed or poor gas mileage?

If you are throwing a code 14 on a 1990 or a 1991 240sx, the engine will run richer than normal. I would get speed sensor fixed.
As far as the tach being screwed up until warm I would check relays and tach one or the other could be bad.
Old Jun 10, 2007 | 07:52 PM
  #24  
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well im still throwing code 14 and the change of MAF helped only for 2 days now i have the same problem again - the car barely starts from 1st try, like I said the whole car shakes as a ****, but then after second try it starts and runs really good

I AM RUNNING RICH since i have installed that OBX header along with muffler shop special 3" exhaust, but with brand new Cat. converter. But, the car doesnt smoke or anything like that, just smells like gas a bit behind the car.


Spark plugs, wires, injectors, air filter - all of that i checked a million times so its not in my case.

I dont know guys. My speedometer seems to be working and Tach and the rest of that ****, have no idea why it throws code 14 !?!?!? BTW it is not cheap to replace that speedo sensor it its about 133 + shipping i checked on one of the web sites. Some people I was talking to saying the it might the FPR cuz it doesn't hold thee fuel over night so it goes all the way back to fuel tank - thats why i cant start the car from the first try, or some people say that this might be a weak pump that is about to go out, but i dont what to do right now cuz those things aint cheap and even if i replace it, what if nothing is gonna change so its just gonna be a HUGE waste of money.

AS FAR as people say here it might be:

1) FPR
2) Fuel pump

**NEW** Someone said today:
3) Speed sensor (even though my speedometer works fine)

Confused even more now ...
Old Jun 11, 2007 | 09:33 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by MaximJ
well im still throwing code 14 and the change of MAF helped only for 2 days now i have the same problem again - the car barely starts from 1st try, like I said the whole car shakes as a ****, but then after second try it starts and runs really good
Yours is definitely a vacuum problem along with code 14. When the engine shakes at start up or when it's usually hard to start and the engine and it runs richer than normal that is usually a vacuum problem.
I would pressurize the intake manifold system and listen for leaks.
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