EGR block off question
#1
EGR block off question
OK, so my car is throwing me an EGR code, 0302, and my idle is kinda bouncy at times. I have researched the mod but I'm still unsure if doing so would be a good idea without any aftermarket fuel management. Also, if I should do it should I block it off just on the exaust side only or both? Someone mentioned plugging the hole with a nickel and reattaching the metal tube. This seems easyer then trying to get a piece of metal the right size with proper sized holes to bolt on there.
#2
So you are throwing a code 32? First you need to make shure that all your vacuum lines to the EGR are connected, and make shure that there are no burnt holes in the vacuum lines from the hot exhaust gasses. (My ecu threw a code 32 because there was a blown hole in my egr/BPT vacuum line to the EGR control valve solenoid, and it was easily corrected.)
You can do the EGR block off and it shouldn't throw codes as long as all of your smog emissions vacuum lines are connected properlly. If all the lines are connected and you are still throwing a code 32 it is one of 2 things that are shown in the FSM, either your EGR/BPT, or the egr control valve solenoid are not functioning, both are relatively inexpensive parts to change out at under $70.
If you do the egr block off, note that HP will increase, but your fuel economy will significantly decrease. Your pretty much giving up good gas mileage, for more HP, and the fuel mixture will probably be more towards the richer side of fuel dumping. I wouldn't use a nickel, but rather a dime. it is easier to fit into the EGR tube connection to the EGR/BPT intake port.
On my old set up I took a dime drilled a small hole in the center, only to allow a small flow of exhaust gas, to kind of moderate my fuel economy and HP. It worked great and I welded it to the egr/BPT intake port just incase shiat were to happen.
I never checked to see if it would pass smog, (unfortunately the EGR failed on me a month before my dyno smog).
You can do the EGR block off and it shouldn't throw codes as long as all of your smog emissions vacuum lines are connected properlly. If all the lines are connected and you are still throwing a code 32 it is one of 2 things that are shown in the FSM, either your EGR/BPT, or the egr control valve solenoid are not functioning, both are relatively inexpensive parts to change out at under $70.
If you do the egr block off, note that HP will increase, but your fuel economy will significantly decrease. Your pretty much giving up good gas mileage, for more HP, and the fuel mixture will probably be more towards the richer side of fuel dumping. I wouldn't use a nickel, but rather a dime. it is easier to fit into the EGR tube connection to the EGR/BPT intake port.
On my old set up I took a dime drilled a small hole in the center, only to allow a small flow of exhaust gas, to kind of moderate my fuel economy and HP. It worked great and I welded it to the egr/BPT intake port just incase shiat were to happen.
I never checked to see if it would pass smog, (unfortunately the EGR failed on me a month before my dyno smog).
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