Could be the crank angle sensor in the OBD1 distributor, it usually doesn't throw ecu codes

 

Do you have to pull the distributor to test the sensor since the distributor needs to be turning to test it?

 

you are talking about the cam position sensor right?

 

Damn this car is killen me. I've checked everything and still nothing. i wish i could figure this out, I know its got to be something simple but i just cant put my finger on it. I hope i can figure this out because my buddy cant afford to put it in the shop because he is not working at the moment and has no transportation. man, this suxxxx

 

ok i never seen this thread.

can you post up everything you did to the car leading up to this problem.... i mean EVery thing bro.. also have you even tried checking your ecu codes.. that can saves hours of trouble shooting.

 

No crank angle sensor is located at the bottom of the rotor on OBD1 KA's..





Did you ever cap off that hole in the intake that ran to the valve cover. I remember looking at your myspace and leaving a comment about that.

 

Yes, I put the hose back on so it connects to the intake again.

 

Checking the codes is the first thing i did and got a knock sensor code, and replaced sensor now there are no codes. I've checked:

ignition switch
ignition control module (power transistor)
relays
temp sensor
o2 sensor
alarm
vacuum leaks
injectors
fuel pump
fuel filter
fuel pressure regulator
iacv
maf
egr
crankshaft position sensor
spark
ignition coil
all ignition related parts
there is probably a few other thing to add to the list of things checked but just cant think of them right now.
any help would be much appreciated. thanks

 

Doesn't the ecu throw a code 11 for crank angle sensor?

 

have you performed an compression check?

 

That i have not done. I will do that tonight after work.
would cracked rings make it die without hesitation or sputtering?

 

The way he explained it before:

"It dies like someone turned off the key"

It is electrical, if it was fuel related, it would die in a rough, sputtering fashion, electrical just shuts it off.

You need a Consult hook up, like Nissan Datascan. The ECU will throw codes that do not set a check engine light. Codes 11, 21, 34 and 54 do not set the check engine light.

If you can, try a different ECU... you are running out of other things to try, unless you have a bad wire in your harness.

if you can't try a different ECU, look in the FSM, EC & EF section, Page 90.
Perform the "Main Power Supply and Ground Circuit" test procedures. If your ECU is losing power, it will shut the car off like the ignition switch does.

 

I agree with RMS13FU, think that it is electrical, but i checked the compression anyways and the compression is good.

 

One thing that I forgot to mention is that after it shuts off It will not start back up until it sets for 5 minutes then it starts back up fine and then shuts off again 3-4 minutes after idling.

 

The problem is finally solved. It turned out to be the MSD 6al ignition was bad so I replaced it with new one and problem is gone. FINALLY