NA Motor Discussions regarding N/A KA24E, KA24DE, and SR20DE

Help with connecting rod bearings : )

Old 07-12-2009, 01:47 AM
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Help with connecting rod bearings : )

I got minor rod knock and i wanted to change my connecting rod bearings first before anything and i dont know what size to get.
12111-53F00 0294 KA24DE STD GRADE 0
12111-53F01 0294 KA24DE STD GRADE 1
12111-53F02 0294 Ka24DE STD GRADE 2

what the hell is the difference between grade 0,1,2

Only my 2nd rod knocks and it only knocks at like 2.1k -2.3k rpm.

and at the moment i do not have money to do anything. I can only do this as a cheap fix until i get a swap.


thank you
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Old 07-12-2009, 06:17 AM
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The grade of the bearing is the thickness. when you crack the block open you cant just slam bearings in there and be done with it if you want the motor to last

You must plasti guage the bearing seat to see what the tolerances are and use the appropriate bearing. If the tolerances are outside of the FSM specs, you either have to trash the crank or have it machined if possible.

most people just go with clevits bearings because they are thicker and the crank will wear them down to where they need to be.


ps

check around your area dude.. im sure you can find a KA for 100 to 200 dollars.

Last edited by Biggamehit; 07-12-2009 at 06:23 AM.
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Old 07-12-2009, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by dogdrinkincoffe View Post
Only my 2nd rod knocks and it only knocks at like 2.1k -2.3k rpm.
please elaborate.
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Old 07-14-2009, 02:06 AM
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like the other pistons are fine but the 2nd one. when i take out the 2nd spark plug and pull the throttle i hear no knock but when i put the spark plug back in and pull the throttle it makes the knocking sound. also when i drive the car on idle no knock once i hit 2.1-2.3k rpm it makes a small knocking sound then after than rev over it goes away
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Old 07-14-2009, 09:54 AM
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it sounds more like pre-ignition than rod knock.
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Old 07-15-2009, 12:24 PM
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then how would i fix that
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Old 07-15-2009, 02:44 PM
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well, it depends on what's causing it. it's may or may not be a pre-ignition problem, i'm just going on instinct. but first, have you removed any of the emission components, and what you turn the ignition off, does the engine stop immediately?
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Old 07-15-2009, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Biggamehit View Post

most people just go with clevits bearings because they are thicker and the crank will wear them down to where they need to be.
The clevits are a milder steel composition though. I don't know if they will last as long as the OEM bearings.
Clevit is a good aftermarket bearing though.

Grade 1 is usually a good bearing to go within tolerance, unless the damage on the crank is really bad, and has a signific ant amount of mileage on it. Always double check with the plastigauge though.

Last edited by BigVinnie; 07-15-2009 at 03:07 PM.
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Old 07-15-2009, 04:57 PM
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roger that good info Vinnie..
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