BlackZenki82

Hey guys, so i have a Zenki with 255k miles.... when i first bought her, she idled BAD.... i cleaned the MAF, Cleaned the IACV (complete tear down and rebuild).... and i just seafoamed her yesterday.... she now idles really smooth, for the most part. Being the perfectionist that i am i was a pure smooth idle. i did my timing change guides, got the timing and all situated (without timing light) O2 sensors changed.... now there's a random stutter, really noticeable at around 2-3k rpm in neutral, like a misfire.... but it's random, if it was rhythmic i would assume a fouled plug, but i know it's not that, i just put in Bosch Plat 4's in there.... even old plugs looked great..... just don't know what else it could be... could it be a timing issue, a faulty plug wire ( we all know how those are), or maybe cap and rotor? please help i want my car to purrrrrr like i know it can, any help will be greatly appreciated

BlackZenki82

oh and by the way, i've spent maybe a total of 6-8 hourse on this forum and the other 240 forums i will not mention in search of this problem, but have came across none like it......

jramosthe1st!

iTrader: (1)

get a timing light and check your timing before you do anything else.

BlackZenki82

well changed cap and rotor, upgraded to 8.5mm wires, hoping it'd smooth some of the idle out.... wrong, still haven't had a chance to check it with a timing light tho. I don't have one and mechanics around here want to charge a fee i can't afford for something that takes 5 minutes....Hell even Seafoamed it, that seemed to work a bit...

Darkvillin

iTrader: (1)

hey zenki82, in ur searches, did u stumble upon anyone having their car idle fine when they press on the break to stop at a light, but when they are at a dead stop, their car idles at 1500 rpm? thats what mine is doin and i am clueless. i cleaned my maf and my throttle body (the big butterfly thing at the end of the intake and beginning of the intake mani). i replaced my o2 sensor about a month ago and i just changed my coolant temp sensor about a week ago.

BlackZenki82

i would think i high idle would either be a air temp sensor (the one by the maf sensor), happened in one of my hondas.... or once again it could possibly be your maf sensor.... it may be clean but not functioning properly..... you have any problems revving it past 3-4K??.... sorry i can't be of more help.... heck, i haven't had much help with mine... did your car always do this or just started recently?

Enlefo

iTrader: (1)

I had idle issues on my 95 and on my maxima's... first off... set your timing like jramos told ya.
Follow the complete timing setting process detailed in the FSM or in the Chilton. FYI this is: Check your ECU and diagnose and repair any trouble codes. Reset your ECU. Rev the even a couple times and hold it at 2k for 30 seconds. Unplug the TPS, rev the engine and then race it at 2-3k for a minute. Then let it idle for a few seconds until it stablizes. Check your timing with a timing light, change if needed and plug in your TPS. Hope this helps.

Other things that can effect idle: Loose or worn out belts. Clogged PCV valve. Bad or clogged EGR valve or hole in the hose or piping in the EGR system. Bad TPS.

Darkvillin

iTrader: (1)

damn thats a lot of info. thanks brother. im gonna try all of them one at a time.

BlackZenki82

well old a$$ thread but i finally set my timing with a light, man it was like 35 degrees past TDC... so i set it at 20 degrees and now she's fine, ride a little smoother, idles more quiet, AND the fart canny sound from my muffler has receded substantially.... but now when i tap the gas fast, but not floor it, she hesitates like ba-roooom.. and not roooom!! ... wtf is going on now? when you tap the gas it should just rev on up, and not bog for a half a second.... any help???

jramosthe1st!

iTrader: (1)

check for codes.

BlackZenki82

knock sensor, pre-timing, don't know if it's still on, EGR/IACV malfunction, after cat o2 sensor.. and park neutral safty switch... wich is weird cause it's a manual...

Rotary_tech

ur ECU's not...

jramosthe1st!

iTrader: (1)

looks to me like you have you're answer.

Darkvillin

iTrader: (1)

i would check and replace your knock sensor too. after tearing down my ka dohc completely, i didnt seem to have one at all. and it hasnt been there for a while. definately didnt help my cause any. also, my egr inlet into the intake manifold was crazy clogged. i mean backed up like rush hour traffic in Philly. good luck. just fyi, if you want to take your intake mani off, which i kinda suggest just to learn and to inspect better, good luck. its a major PITA. especially if you want or need to keep your egr for emissions. it will help tho.

BlackZenki82

i bought my OBDII 95 240 SE three months ago, two weeks later, i did the whole upper timing chain guide stuff.... since then my cars been fine, even though i set timing by ear, which i just turn the dizzy till it sounded right and RPM were decent. though when i revved it up to about 3k, it would "miss" i guess... so i just recently set timing according to NICO, it's supposed to be at 20 and it was around 35, and now my car just feels sluggish, like the A/C is on all the time, wont spin the tires like normal, and just feel weak.... but at least no "miss" @ 3k rpm

now my car has 257k miles, and doesn't run like it, leaks and burns no oil, and still hauls *** (for a KA)..

now, i do have CEL codes... knock sensor ( before i set timing) don't know now though, just had my codes cleared and as i was restting timing the CEL came back on, haven't had a chance to check it yet... so the codes..

Knock sensor- pre timing, don't know now..
EGR/IACV malfunction- ever since i bought the car thats been on..
Aftercat o2 sensor-i have a test pipe and haven't gotten the o2 extension yet
Park Neutral Saftey switch- weird cause it's a manual...

now i know you're thinking, all those codes, no wonder, but before i set my timing, the thing would move... now it's slow.... i also adjusted the idle control screw a few times....

my main worry is that i either screwed or unscrewed the idle control screw too much, and ****ed with my timing too much... i have no idea but i want to get back my power.... if all else fails I'll just got to Nissan and tell em to set everything back to factory settings (timing, idle screw etc)

if i keep losing power like this would it also be a sign my engine is going? i've been running that CEL and pig rich for the last three months of ownership... no idea how long before... i know running rich can hurt your engine, just sot sure if thats whats going on....

this was a copy and post from another site.... i was just too lazy to re type it....
__________________