Darkvillin

iTrader: (1)

have you attempted to look at the fsm or a chiltons or both to learn to adjust idle and timing?

BlackZenki82

i have neither....

Rotary_tech

dude, of course ur car felt fast when u were 35deg. advanced....any car would. So when you set the timing of course your car is going to feel slower. By my guess about 20% am I right? And since your timing was so freaking far advanced, you probably detonated more than a few times, since combustion temps were crazy high, since you didn't have a high enough octane gas to handle being that far advanced. Which is what triggered the Knock Sensor code. I hope you didn't drive it that way for very long, cuz you could have done some SERIOUS damage to the engine. Especially an engine with 200k+ miles on it.

Now the other stuff...
Ur EGR code: Check the Back Pressure Transducer (BPT) hose that connects the EGR valve and BPT valve. They collapse over time from the heat.
Park/Neutral safety switch: Ur car was originally an automatic, and u need an ECU from a manual.
O2 sensor: U already know that one

BlackZenki82

unfortunately i was running like that for about 2 months.... and hard..... so yeah my car feels sloooooooooow.... like before when it was advanced, i beat a H22 swapped civic coupe (he said his temp sensor was bad and VTEC wasn't kicking in) but VTEC or not, that H22 has far more horsepower than a stock KA, and just the other night, i had a hard time beating a non VTEC coupe.... I'm still 5-0-0 so it's all gravy...

as for originally being an auto, i don't think it was because the VIN shows it as a manual..... but i heard that in S13s, if you put an auto ECU into a manual, it's supposed to have hotter timing maps, and no speed limiter, maybe that's what it is, but in my S14.... also, i was going through the FSM and my car is an OBDII, and in that manual, it shows the port in the upper right of the glove box.... mine in on the passenger side, under the glove box next to the trans tunnel.... is this normal??

good shot on the BPT..... I'll have to def check that out, over the course of the weekend I'll me tearing into my engine bay to try and sort this out.... and i may even set it advanced 5 degrees to gain back some of that quickness.... and i always run 93 octane.... always... my knock sensor code came on ( when the timing was so far advanced) when my g/f accidentally put regular gas in.... but up until that point, no light..... and the knock sensor CEL has only been on for about two weeks to my knowledge... a quarter tanks of regular was put in there about three weeks ago....

also would the ethanol content in gas now have anything to do with it??

oh and thanks a lot Rotary_tech, that was actually really informative...

fadedsilvia

about the obdII port, i have an obdII 95 and my port is in the same place, so my guess is that yea, its normal

fadedsilvia

[QUOTE=
Park/Neutral safety switch: Ur car was originally an automatic, and u need an ECU from a manual.
[/QUOTE]

ok i no this is a reallllly old thread but jus for information purposes im gonna throw this out there

i also get automatic transmission codes (transmission range sensor circuit) out of my my car even though its a manual, i had the dealership run my vin an it has always been a manual, an all of it is the cars original equipment

but the guys at the dealership said sumthing about the ECU's having problems with some of the resistors coroding and throwing false codes/affecting performance

in which case i belive you need a new ecu