good advise, i will do that

 

Go to www.boostdesigns.com, I don't know what junns websight is but they sell them also. CA18det retainers and springs are a direct install for the KA........ The springs are what cost major bread.........
Here is where you can get the TOPLINE forged internals.
http://www.rpmmachine.com/enginerebu...nissantop.html

 

the boostdesigns has the springs and titanium retainers for $350 and will rev to 8000 rpms. that is nice and cheaper then i thought. and the rpmmachine says they will meat or beat any competitors price. ive been to that website before. but i really like the $350 set, thats nice to have the hp band up to 8000 rpms. thats a kick as- 240sx. im getting that and putting it in the new head now before it goes on the car. ill sell the new ones in the head along with the cams in it on ebay when i get the new ones and sell the old head with all the parts on ebay also. do you like the $350 set? or is the ca18det still better? it allows you to go to the same rpms, right? and i think this set is cheaper

 

I think the set for $350 is a great deal especially after looking at juns prices on the CA18det retainers and springs which almost run you up to $400........ I think it is a great deal.........

 

when we are talking about building a motor for something it was not designed for is cheaper always better??? we all know the ka was never built to rev to 8 grand... and going for the cheaper part might not always be the wise way out... im not knockin you for finding a deal... but sometimes the corner you cut will come back to bite you in the ***... just my thoughts on the matter...

now as far as which one should you buy... i have the rev hard kit for the ka in my head... as some of you know i ended up bending 2 valves in my motor due to my timing chain jumping a few teeth... even with piston to valve contact the springs and retainers are still in perfect shape... i was really happy with the service i got from boost designes and the parts are in my opinion top notch and work... now granted i never reached 8 grand with the car but if the springs and retainers can handle valve to piston contact then i would use them every time i do this kind of work on this motor...

 

did you have stock valves? my other question would be, would the ka24e froged pistons affect driving long distance or any other driving condition compared to the de pistons. would it be more wear on the engine in the long run because of the higher compresion? and before i get them you guys know for sure they will work on the de? do you know anyone who has done it?

 

The limitation of that 8000RPM spec is also with all stock KA internals, it is possible to hit 8300 to 8500RPM, with counterweighed crank, "racepreped", and forged internals, no worries when it comes to snapping the rods....... Your engine is only as strong as its next weak link........ Removing anything that causes verberatrion or any distirbance within the engine allows for a little more play.......

 

I have been following this thread.. and am sourcing my own parts for this type of rebuild/build up.
the engine is a 96.
I already have a timing kit I got off ebay for 90 bucks.
I have an E engine. Would I be ok with just reringing those pistons out of the E?
and using stock rods off of the 96 engine?
Where can I order just a gasket kit for the DE?
Should I go ahead an replace the water pump while I am at it all?

 

bigvinnie knows a lot more than me, but if you dont plan on doing any serious hp that would be fine, if the pistons are in good shape and the cylinders on your 96 doesnt need boreing. and also the shape the head is in. i would sugest a gasket kit for the hole engine. i think they have them on ebay. if not you might be able to get a kit at an auto part store. im not to sure, but just look around on the internet. im sure bigvinnie, or wikd240 would know. there 240sx experts oh yea the water pump you can replace anytime. if you still have the fan on it, just take it off and then the few bolts holding the water pump on. your engine dont have to be apart for that. but its not a bad ideal to change it. your water pump is about 10 years old. but most water pumps last longer then that

 

If the original water pump works, I see no need for replacement. Or check out wikds post on electric water pump.... Yeah you could use the 90 sohc pistons, but then you also need to use the SOHC rods.... It is due to the location of the sohc piston pins. If you want a really high cr in the 11.s' you will wan't to mill the KA head at about .007. If you dont wan't to mill the head look for thinner gaskets, but not recomended for higher compression engines.. I would also look into getting larger valves enlarged at .020 larger than the stock OEM, get the engine breathing........
Devious KA can sell you a really strong head gasket that is durable for high compression and FI applications.......

 

These are the flat pistons from an 89 that are supposed to if dropped in a dohc give it the 11.1 comp... right??

 

There are 2 type of SOHC pistons..... Pre 89 SOHC had a dish that was raised .020 I believe the compression on that is way to high for 95-98 KA heads, there are also valve clearance issues. Of the valves almost making contact with the pistons in under .015mm of clearance...... The dropped dish pistons of under .020mm are recomended for the KA heads to prevent valve clearance issues these were made mid 89-90....... I think devious KA mentioned something about it in another post..... I'm not exactly sure what the compression of the 95-98 heads are but they are higher CR than the 91-94....... If I was to install the 90 pistons in my 91ka I would get a compression of about 10.7, so I guess 95-98 would be some where around 11.1...Not shure so if someone has the EXACT info on that, that would be great!!!
Oh almost forgat those compression ratings are with a bore at .040 making the chambeer size at 90mm rather than 89mm.....

 

im glad you said that because i didnt know that. i have to get the ka24e rods also, and as far as what pistons, if i need a bore ill go with 90mm and if not 89mm

 

i figured that everyone who was doing this had looked at the post that had my engine build up parts list... had anyone looked at it they would have noticed that the rods were the sohc rods as well as sohc pistons... i should have made that totally clear... but anyway... yes this works... i have them in my motor my compression ratio is 10.7 to 1... and the head was milled down as well... if you plan to keep it mild then stock units will work fine... you start trying to get more power you should go to forged internals...

 

WIKD I don't think everyone is reading the thread due to the fact that it is sooooooooo long people have asked me to collect all the data and to sum it all up to make a 1 page sticky......