Solution To Throttle Response!!
#31
it's always nice to insult someone and throw in "no hard feelings".
anyways, maybe because I've only had DOHC 240's it doesn't work. really though, if it DOES work, you'd think there's a logical explination, right? it's sad that someone can offer a logical explination and someone else takes offense to it and gets mad. I didn't say that it DIDN'T work. I offered a suggestion as to WHY it would work. Did i actually "knock your hustle"??
FWIW, on my '92 I ****ed around with the throttle body, ignition, TPS, whatever. I've experienced a tight throttle cable. As for me, I didn't like it. The throttle was too sensative near its initial position, making it a PITA to rev match when driving normally. Basically, it took away from my low rpm response.
On my '95, I took the time to adjust the throttle so that my throttle body is set correctly, and made sure my TPS measured WOT correctly. I get as much power out of the stock KA with only a cone intake filter than some people do with full intake, header, exhaust, pulleys, and ignition (dyno'ed at 142.6 rwhp). I don't have a problem with engine response, and I've raced with my car enough to be comfortable with my the range of my throttle.
I can tell you from experience that ****ing up your TPS or ****ing up your ignition timing will seriously **** up your engine response. It's as simple as that. Maybe ****ing with your throttle line you somehow adjusted your TPS closer to spec. You're happy with the way your car is, which is great. You don't want to listen to why I think it might work in your car. That's good for you. Now, just because your experience was good, does that mean my experience can just be neglected?? Personally, I don't think it would have been fair to anyone else to NOT warn them of possible danger, especially since I did so by saying that there's a REASON that it would work.
Grow up.... oh, but no hard feelings.
anyways, maybe because I've only had DOHC 240's it doesn't work. really though, if it DOES work, you'd think there's a logical explination, right? it's sad that someone can offer a logical explination and someone else takes offense to it and gets mad. I didn't say that it DIDN'T work. I offered a suggestion as to WHY it would work. Did i actually "knock your hustle"??
FWIW, on my '92 I ****ed around with the throttle body, ignition, TPS, whatever. I've experienced a tight throttle cable. As for me, I didn't like it. The throttle was too sensative near its initial position, making it a PITA to rev match when driving normally. Basically, it took away from my low rpm response.
On my '95, I took the time to adjust the throttle so that my throttle body is set correctly, and made sure my TPS measured WOT correctly. I get as much power out of the stock KA with only a cone intake filter than some people do with full intake, header, exhaust, pulleys, and ignition (dyno'ed at 142.6 rwhp). I don't have a problem with engine response, and I've raced with my car enough to be comfortable with my the range of my throttle.
I can tell you from experience that ****ing up your TPS or ****ing up your ignition timing will seriously **** up your engine response. It's as simple as that. Maybe ****ing with your throttle line you somehow adjusted your TPS closer to spec. You're happy with the way your car is, which is great. You don't want to listen to why I think it might work in your car. That's good for you. Now, just because your experience was good, does that mean my experience can just be neglected?? Personally, I don't think it would have been fair to anyone else to NOT warn them of possible danger, especially since I did so by saying that there's a REASON that it would work.
Grow up.... oh, but no hard feelings.
#33
Originally posted by rudeboy
i have a good idea... go try it your self and then try saying its some ecu thing
there is NO hesitation when in second gear and you mash the throttle. or in 3 or 4. stop hatin
i have a good idea... go try it your self and then try saying its some ecu thing
there is NO hesitation when in second gear and you mash the throttle. or in 3 or 4. stop hatin
Dude, you need to learn how to chill
#35
HEY Ace...
For nissan to program something that into the ecu it would end up costing the company a few hundred thousand dollars per line of cars...
oh yeah my stanza only has 57000 miles on it...and MR. STRONG got it for an old lady whose owned it since 91 there is no wear and tear from driving on MR. STRONG's engine...
So in closing Rudeboy and MR. STRONG are correct
For nissan to program something that into the ecu it would end up costing the company a few hundred thousand dollars per line of cars...
oh yeah my stanza only has 57000 miles on it...and MR. STRONG got it for an old lady whose owned it since 91 there is no wear and tear from driving on MR. STRONG's engine...
So in closing Rudeboy and MR. STRONG are correct
#36
Originally posted by MR. STRONG
HEY Ace...
For nissan to program something that into the ecu it would end up costing the company a few hundred thousand dollars per line of cars...
oh yeah my stanza only has 57000 miles on it...and MR. STRONG got it for an old lady whose owned it since 91 there is no wear and tear from driving on MR. STRONG's engine...
So in closing Rudeboy and MR. STRONG are correct
HEY Ace...
For nissan to program something that into the ecu it would end up costing the company a few hundred thousand dollars per line of cars...
oh yeah my stanza only has 57000 miles on it...and MR. STRONG got it for an old lady whose owned it since 91 there is no wear and tear from driving on MR. STRONG's engine...
So in closing Rudeboy and MR. STRONG are correct
tip-in retard is programmed into the ECU from the factory, unless you're talking about something else off topic.
b: like i said: props to you for feeling better about your car. i guess regular maintenance is something to get a medal for.
c: again, like i said: what reason do you have for saying you get a performance gain other than saying how your throttle itches at it's initial depression? basically, how are you tricking the ecu into performing beyond its standard specifications?
d: you guys still have your panties in a knot just because I offered a couple reasons why your "brand new intuitive super duper idea" might work?? yet you can't offer a reason yourself??
Whatever. I said what I needed to say. Hopefully people can deduce for themselves what works and what doesn't. This wouldn't be a problem if you guys would back up your bull**** though.
#39
Originally posted by spitz7985
how would you go about doing this?
how would you go about doing this?
1. Loosen lock nut, and tighten adjusting nut untill throttle drum starts to move.
2. from that position turn back adjusting nut 1.5 to 2 turns, and secure lock nut.
once this is done, check the pedal at full throttle, the throttle body should be at full throw.
Throttle Position Sensor:
1. Disconnect throttle position sensor harness connector.
2. Make sure that resistance between the two lower terminals (plug facing you with tab on right) changes when opening throttle valve manually.
Accelerator pedal condition: Resistance:
Completely released.............Approx 0.7
Partially released..................0.7 - 5
Completely released.............Approx 5
Last edited by AceInHole; 11-02-2002 at 09:44 AM.
#41
Originally posted by MR. STRONG
ok how bout this
you give MR. STRONG your address
MR. STRONG picks one of his cars
and MR. STRONG wipes the cement with your car
sound good?
cause it sounds good to MR. STRONG
ok how bout this
you give MR. STRONG your address
MR. STRONG picks one of his cars
and MR. STRONG wipes the cement with your car
sound good?
cause it sounds good to MR. STRONG
#42
Originally posted by AceInHole
the FSM's explination for adjusting the accelerator wire:
1. Loosen lock nut, and tighten adjusting nut untill throttle drum starts to move.
2. from that position turn back adjusting nut 1.5 to 2 turns, and secure lock nut.
once this is done, check the pedal at full throttle, the throttle body should be at full throw.
Throttle Position Sensor:
1. Disconnect throttle position sensor harness connector.
2. Make sure that resistance between the two lower terminals (plug facing you with tab on right) changes when opening throttle valve manually.
Accelerator pedal condition: Resistance:
Completely released.............Approx 0.7
Partially released..................0.7 - 5
Completely released.............Approx 5
the FSM's explination for adjusting the accelerator wire:
1. Loosen lock nut, and tighten adjusting nut untill throttle drum starts to move.
2. from that position turn back adjusting nut 1.5 to 2 turns, and secure lock nut.
once this is done, check the pedal at full throttle, the throttle body should be at full throw.
Throttle Position Sensor:
1. Disconnect throttle position sensor harness connector.
2. Make sure that resistance between the two lower terminals (plug facing you with tab on right) changes when opening throttle valve manually.
Accelerator pedal condition: Resistance:
Completely released.............Approx 0.7
Partially released..................0.7 - 5
Completely released.............Approx 5
#43
some guys say they don't like it
others do.
it's all personal prefrence
i checked the TPS voltage and it reads correct.
so if your boostin check air fuel ratios.
in japan they sell the $80 bolt-on version of this.
take your choice...
as far as factory spec goes, it's all cool and dandy but most drivers modify to rid themselves of "factory spec". make sense?
there is no defineable(sp) performance "gain".
but if you like your car to move as soon as you push the pedal then it works.
there are always advantages and disadvantages to any mod on a car/truck/boat/plane/po-go-stick.
it all depends on what your lookin for
others do.
it's all personal prefrence
i checked the TPS voltage and it reads correct.
so if your boostin check air fuel ratios.
in japan they sell the $80 bolt-on version of this.
take your choice...
as far as factory spec goes, it's all cool and dandy but most drivers modify to rid themselves of "factory spec". make sense?
there is no defineable(sp) performance "gain".
but if you like your car to move as soon as you push the pedal then it works.
there are always advantages and disadvantages to any mod on a car/truck/boat/plane/po-go-stick.
it all depends on what your lookin for
#44
Originally posted by rudeboy
some guys say they don't like it
others do.
it's all personal prefrence
i checked the TPS voltage and it reads correct.
so if your boostin check air fuel ratios.
in japan they sell the $80 bolt-on version of this.
take your choice...
as far as factory spec goes, it's all cool and dandy but most drivers modify to rid themselves of "factory spec". make sense?
there is no defineable(sp) performance "gain".
but if you like your car to move as soon as you push the pedal then it works.
there are always advantages and disadvantages to any mod on a car/truck/boat/plane/po-go-stick.
it all depends on what your lookin for
some guys say they don't like it
others do.
it's all personal prefrence
i checked the TPS voltage and it reads correct.
so if your boostin check air fuel ratios.
in japan they sell the $80 bolt-on version of this.
take your choice...
as far as factory spec goes, it's all cool and dandy but most drivers modify to rid themselves of "factory spec". make sense?
there is no defineable(sp) performance "gain".
but if you like your car to move as soon as you push the pedal then it works.
there are always advantages and disadvantages to any mod on a car/truck/boat/plane/po-go-stick.
it all depends on what your lookin for
as far as "factory spec", there are ways to push beyond factory spec, but you don't necessarily want to "rid" yourself of factory spec. Without the aid of piggyback components, an ecu re-tuning, or a standalone system all together, going out of spec is generally harmful to performance. I'm definitely not saying that factory spec is best at all, but using factory equipment, the specifications are there to outline the "optimal" performance settings.
#45
Originally posted by MR. STRONG
ok how bout this
you give MR. STRONG your address
MR. STRONG picks one of his cars
and MR. STRONG wipes the cement with your car
sound good?
cause it sounds good to MR. STRONG
ok how bout this
you give MR. STRONG your address
MR. STRONG picks one of his cars
and MR. STRONG wipes the cement with your car
sound good?
cause it sounds good to MR. STRONG
If not there, you can find me at pretty much any 240sx ONE (Owners of New England) event, whether it be karting, autocrossing, or an open track day. We've yet to do a drag day, but next season i'm planning on going to e-town at least once with the other turbo 240's in CT (assuming by then I a: install my clutch, and b: install the turbo that's been sitting in my trunk for the past 2 months).
Generally the events are F1Boston days (karting) or NER (New England Regional) Solo II, so I hope you're a pretty good driver if you plan on "wiping the cement" with my car.
Edit: It's actually kind of funny that you want to turn a technical discussion into a personal grudge. That's usually what people that have no idea what they're talking about do. I guess I'll be seeing you at the next NER Solo II event?? One of the Ayer, Ma events can't be too far out of your reach.
NER SCCA
Last edited by AceInHole; 11-04-2002 at 11:47 PM.