fudge i was planning on getting a bomz intake for a 93 and just throw on an apexi filter......
I do have an idea for the sensor though... why not air duct to a bucket placed over the cone filter and place the temp sensor at the end of the bucket as show HERE www.geocities.com/ake2ly/N240/cai_how_to.html A LITTLE MORE CUSH FOR THE PUSH =0P

 

that just defeats the purpose of having a 360 degree aftermarket air filter... that setup will only pull in as much air that fits in that funky white pipe... probably the same as the stock 2" airbox tubes IMO

 

hmm what if that white tube was 4" >.< ? and wouldn't this be a little beneficial having that "ture pressurized ram-air setup"?
would it disrupt the MAF reading?
would it be better with out the bucket but still with the air duct?
and what about his temp sensor? =0(

 

Try this - take a tape measure and measure out the total surface area of your typical cone air filter, then compare it to the total area of (in your example) a 4" in diameter circle (representing your "tube"). See the difference.

That bucket thing only has one inlet for the air to come in (that aforementioned tube), so think about it. Compare it to the stock airbox which also has one inlet for air to come in (the molded plastic tubes sticking out from the airbox) and maybe the airbox is squarish and the bucket is round but their principle design is the same - enclose the air filter element and allow one small passage for air to come in.

If you took that "bucket" out and just left the white duct, then basically you just have an air duct. It would help "guide" the air to the filter, but it's not going to give you ***-feeling HP lol

And that IAT sensor is supposed to measure the air that has already passed through the air cleaner element, on it's way to the throttle body. the IAT is enclosed inside the airbox for a reason - that's the most accurate way for it to take intake charge air temperature. If you had the IAT just hanging out of nowhere, it moght not necessarily be taking the correct temp readings i.e. if the IAT sensor happens to hang near a heat source.

Finally, you tell me your definition of a "true pressurized ram-air setup" and I"ll explain why that doesn't apply here.

 

Hahaha, that's ghetto man! Lol!

 

ahahahah iight i see now. thanks for explaining i guess this leads me to buying a real intake instead of those half assed ebay ones Are the K&N drop in filters anygood?

 

ahahahah iight i see now. thanks for explaining i guess this leads me to buying a real intake instead of those half assed ebay ones Are the K&N drop in filters anygood?

 

K&N drop-ins are better than stock because they're washable, but won't add much unless you do the "cut airbox" trick like Arctic and I did for our stock intake boxes 9he has a thread on it somewhere)

 

yea i was thinking about that =0) thanks!!!

 

Not to mention it will make your engine sound a lot better, hehehe, nothing like the sound of a huge 2.4L engine sucking in air to satify itself.

 

does the IAT sensor HAVE to be ebfor the MAF? why nut just cut a few hole in the stock tube after the MAF and put the IAT there?

 

if it's after, then what's the point? It's measuring the temperature of the air before it goes through the MAFS and on to the engine.

 

will the temp really change that much before it goes to the MAF to when it passes right out it?

anyway i found out what ohm resistor those ebay mod chip things use 4.7kohm resistor. and for $1.08 with tax at radioshack i got 5 of them and i tried one and it def makes a noticble difference after like 4.5-5krpms

 

there was a thread a few months ago about those Ebay chip things. The whole resistor thing will end up just messing up your car... and you say there's a difference AFTER 4.5-5k rpms? That's odd since a stocker KA makes all it's torque at 4200. Maybe it's butt dyno again

 

hey it's on my beater car with a ghetto rigged 91-94 intake adapter plate (again shafted by egay) had to drill that **** out and itbarely fits.. then the freakin hose clamp breaks in two halves?? wtf was that about had to buy new ones.

intake sounds mean tho. much better than my 1.8l integra

the 240 engine i'll be doing work on WON'T be ghetto rigged. see i believe in buying only the best because it fits better works better and i won't have to spend money twice on the same thing later on down the road. but i am a very broke individual.. all i want is an s13 with even a stock sr20. i cna slowly wokr form there. hell just crank the boost to 13psi