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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 08:32 PM
  #121  
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From: Ft. Riley Kansas
Originally Posted by Tops*
maybe i missed it, but are the powered by max coils going on the zenki, or did you sell them already?

i like this thread.
Yeah I sold them inorder to buy the car. I will be getting another pair though. That or some Stances... Prolly PBM though.
Update-ish

Girly finished the front end + drained my oil. Deffinatly sig material. <3 240s without fronts!
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Took care of the little bits of the interior.
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Im keeping the carpet from right behind the first seat track bolts foreward, too much wiring under there!
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im thinking about doing this to the center console... Prolly with just end up taking it out.( I know im ricey)
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Is this the ABS system?(Unsure if I have ABS, but my nonabs Kouki does not have this part.
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WTF is this??
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Am I able to cut the wires to the speakers and ****, tape them and call it good with out ****ing anything electrical up with the car? (I'm a total wiring noob, but Im attempting to learn)
Old Apr 14, 2008 | 08:42 PM
  #122  
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nice man

that could be the abs, is there any brake lines coming out of it?

also for the second pic with the box. as a rule of thumb with anycar with airbags anything with the color yellow is SRS related (Suplimental Restraint System or airbags lol)

i would take out the airbags b4 i would start messing with the airbag system cause even if it dosnt have any power static electricity can ignite them its very unlikely but i wouldnt take the chance
Old Apr 14, 2008 | 08:59 PM
  #123  
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A line leads to the brake master cylinder, then the other line runs to the passenger side into the actual motor. Thanks Batto I assumed it was airbag ****. Will deactivate that **** ahah air bag to the face is a no no
Old Apr 15, 2008 | 03:33 AM
  #124  
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This is going to be a nice track car. Also man you SIG is cool as hell. I think it is time for a new one for me.
Old Apr 15, 2008 | 04:06 AM
  #125  
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You COULD cut the wires to the speakers and tape them up, in theory it will be fine. But make sure they are completely covered. If they are still connected to a power source current will still be flowing through them so if some one touched them........ yeah. I would just either take them out completely (might as well re-do the wiring harness if you do) or just leave them be (much simpler, and good if you are lazy... like me).
Old Apr 24, 2008 | 05:08 PM
  #126  
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**** dont really want to do wiring harness. Probably will end up doing just that though.

Today I finished taking off all the body panels. I got this grease lightning **** which is probably the best cleaner in the world to clean out nastys all over the interior and trunk blah blah. (Fresh and clean, clean)

Also took out rear struts, started on the fronts but they are so ****ing tight(RUSTED). Anyone know a quicker way to do this than tossing a wrench on the bolts and beating the **** out of the wrench with a rubber mallet? kthx.

Pics of the stripped zenki.

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I pick up the motor in 2 weeks and most of the suspension will be shipping soon. YAY!
Old Apr 24, 2008 | 05:31 PM
  #127  
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Get some wd-40 (at least. something that specifically helps break down rust is what you want) spray it on the bolts/threads (if you can get to them). Then get a pipe (should be pretty long but not too long... make sure it is longer than the handle of the wratchet or wrench) put it on the handle of the wratchet or wrench and start turning. Make sure you steadily hold the head of the tool to the bolt, if not your chances of breaking it inside of the hole increases. It should work after that. If not.....you have some problems and need to take it to a machine shop.

If I see bolts with rust on them I dont even try to take them out. I immediately get something to help weaken the seized bolt (i.e. wd-40) and let it penetrate for a while then use the pipe so I have more leverage. Be careful not to break the bolt off though, very important, you want to keep one of your hands on the head of the tool you are using so it doesnt move at an angle, you want it to be as level with the hole as possible.
Old Apr 24, 2008 | 05:45 PM
  #128  
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for siezed bolts there are few products that will really do the job. I've had really good luck with pb blaster vs. wd40, but there are some commercial grade products that you can buy that work even better.
Old Apr 24, 2008 | 06:18 PM
  #129  
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Yeah PB blaster works better lol. I couldnt think of the name at the moment lol. PB blaster works 9x's better than wd-40.
Old Apr 24, 2008 | 06:42 PM
  #130  
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I've got a gold trunk with a factory SE spoiler on it calling your name - just get an air compressor and impact wrench lol.

that would be tight if you could do that in storage garages.
Old Apr 24, 2008 | 08:41 PM
  #131  
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I sure hope it's not a 1/4" NPT fitting on there. 3/8" or get your girly gun outta here!
Old Apr 24, 2008 | 09:54 PM
  #132  
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cool man, making some lil progress I see.
You should completely remove the pointless **** from your wiring harness
i.e. anything audio related, Air Con related, etc.

I'm gonna keep an eye on this thread.
Hope it turns out nice.
Old Apr 25, 2008 | 06:42 AM
  #133  
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From: Ft. Riley Kansas
Originally Posted by donteventry
I've got a gold trunk with a factory SE spoiler on it calling your name - just get an air compressor and impact wrench lol.

that would be tight if you could do that in storage garages.

I was actually excited to have a wingless trunk, don't worry I'll hit something soon enough to need a trunk

Withen the next week or two I'll be heading up and getting some ****ing tools. This small set of **** I have works... Thought about the aircompressor and impact but dunno. ( the impact gun pictured was back at a post self-help auto garage. )
Old Apr 25, 2008 | 09:15 AM
  #134  
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if i may.

ingersol Rand 2135Ti.

700 ft/lbs of nut busting power
titanium casing for the light weight nut busting on the go do it yourselfer guy.
Old Apr 25, 2008 | 09:38 AM
  #135  
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From: Ft. Riley Kansas
LMAO!

I do love nutbusting
haha!



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