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</3er *Henry's S12-----IT RUNS IT RUNS(start up video pg.90)

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Old 08-03-2007, 12:56 PM
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Dude, friggin schweet. I dont understand how the suspension is set up to only use one bolt though.
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Old 08-03-2007, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Ayuaddict
hey henry, you are a woman.

actually i am quite surprised or rather intrigued by your efforts to out-do me.
Haha, not so much trying to out-do you as much as I'm trying to just get this thing dope and running.

Originally Posted by ryguy
Dude, friggin schweet. I dont understand how the suspension is set up to only use one bolt though.
What part don't you understand? The subframe?

heres the diagram


Last edited by yarou; 08-03-2007 at 01:48 PM.
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Old 08-03-2007, 01:53 PM
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no i think he ment how theres one bolt holding the strut to the body
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Old 08-03-2007, 02:40 PM
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That's pretty much what it is.. not much more to it. The shock and spring are separate, the spring holds the body's weight while the strut dampens as the spring is compressed. Just happens that the strut is attached to the chassis through one big bolt
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Old 08-03-2007, 04:29 PM
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I know that. But the megans are designed for an S13, which uses two bolts for the rear suspension. Did you make some kind of custom bracket for it? I understand how it works stock, just not how you bolted it up.
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Old 08-03-2007, 05:20 PM
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Oh, i just disassembled it. separated the spring and upper mount from the shock and it's just the bare shock now
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Old 08-03-2007, 05:49 PM
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Following Gary Molitor's example, I bought a hole saw to saw out the rubber bushings and it's working out pretty well. Slightly time consuming but a very good alternative to using an oxy/MAPP gas torch.

Here is Gary's writeup

http://www.garymolitor.com/300zx/rear_bush...ing_removal.htm

And my current progress


the saw size is 1" 3/16, its the perfect fit around the inner sleeve
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After I got in a bit, there was a lot of friction from the inner rubber rubbing against the saw so I used a little oil to slick it up which worked great. It sawed through a little faster also

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My diff mount has been curing for about 14 hours now and it's STIFF. The dried material is very very hard, and it's not fully cured yet. It takes about 3 days to fully cure

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And the bushing halves I made for the steering rack turned out great, I just need to grind it to shape to fit the steering rack and touch it up a bit. They're also very stuff and sturdy

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pass. side
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driver side
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and the other halves are on their way

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Old 08-03-2007, 06:56 PM
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very nice work.. henry's finally getting into it.. henry had no life prior to this so he's trying to make up for loss time, which i think he is successfully doing
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Old 08-03-2007, 07:40 PM
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better late than never.
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Old 08-03-2007, 09:09 PM
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Ok, so I'm pretty ****ing bummed. The drill thing was great for the few couple hours, but it's pretty much impossible to fit the drill with it on the other side of the bushing. Not to mention that it's hard to get it dead center to prevent shaving the outer or inner sleeves which are needed with the prothane kit. Any advice or tips? I'm thinking about going to a shop with a press but I'm unsure of the costs.
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Old 08-03-2007, 09:11 PM
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make a bonfire and throw it on there
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Old 08-04-2007, 12:21 AM
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subframe bushings out

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Last edited by yarou; 08-04-2007 at 12:29 AM.
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Old 08-04-2007, 01:16 AM
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good lord man...your making me feel like im neglecting my car...damn you!!!!!!
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Old 08-04-2007, 03:03 AM
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i say we have a propane - subframe bonfire at carmel beach

woot
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Old 08-04-2007, 04:13 PM
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hoy henry! this is Pat aka blitz from club-s12.org. the site is down ( I guess we need to donate some money to indy so he can pay the hosting fee). so I registered here to see what's going on with your project. I want to see the end result.

btw, what's the link to the prothane kit?

EDIT: NVM the site is online again

Last edited by blitz23; 08-04-2007 at 07:04 PM.
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