Tips for rookie
Contributing Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,703
From: MA
Rice... perhaps... but imo, people care too much about the whole "rice" thing. personally, I think the expression on their faces when they're smoked by something like the HOT PINK Yashio Factory S15 w/all it's stickers on it is something to behold... but we're getting off topic here.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1
From: NRH, TX
Originally posted by s13 240
First I'd start by finding out which class your going to be participating in and seeing if they have any limitations on mods.
First I'd start by finding out which class your going to be participating in and seeing if they have any limitations on mods.
Theres your answer
Your limitations will become your parts list. Get everything you can to compete in a specific class.
Contributing Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 573
From: Washington State
I'm assuming you are looking into road racing?
I've raced SCCA for a few years during 1999-2002. You'll be surprised at how many of the track cars are POS's, but they win. Go to the track and try to find a fast guy running the same car as yours. Copy his setup as a starting point and then improve on it as you see fit. Stock 240 brakes don't hold up at all, you will need to upgrade brakes to at least racing pads, hi temp fluids, braided brake lines, and air ducts/cooling hoses going to the caliper and center of the rotor. LSD is a must, either a 1 way aftermarket unit or a stock VLSD will work fine. All fluids need to be changed to synthetic from the engine to differential. A rollcage will be required along with a fire extinguisher, race suit, helmet, gloves, and shoes, all scca approved fire resistant. External power cut-off switch may be required, and the steering lock must be disabled(pin removed)or removed altogther.
How much you will be able to mod your car depends on what class you run. Typically in a spec type class there will be minimal mods allowed. These classes are alot of fun because everyone's car is very close and it's all driver, and more people participate because the cost is alot less. One thing I realized is that for road racing the car must be a dedicated track car to be competitive. The brake ducting usually interferes with the steering raduis and they have to be removed for street use. The setup that works well on the track will be skateboard stiff for the street, and if nothing else the required #'s and class markings can attract unwanted attention on the street from Police or riceboys trying to pic a race. The cage and required window net can be a pain for daily use. If you are going to roadrace I'd recommend getting a theft recovery or etc auction car because you don't need alot of interior and it doesn't have to be pretty. Sticky tires(your own and your competition) will flick rocks and crap at your car and ding it up, you may spin out or rub fenders and bump the competition. Don't want to make it sound scarry it's not, it's ALOT of fun! I ran a old 1st gen RX-7 I got 3 rolling chassis's for $100 and didn't have to worry if I f'd up because I'd just swap all the gear into the next one. At one point we had a 53 car group of Rx-7's and GTI's it was an awesome race working thru all the traffic.
I've raced SCCA for a few years during 1999-2002. You'll be surprised at how many of the track cars are POS's, but they win. Go to the track and try to find a fast guy running the same car as yours. Copy his setup as a starting point and then improve on it as you see fit. Stock 240 brakes don't hold up at all, you will need to upgrade brakes to at least racing pads, hi temp fluids, braided brake lines, and air ducts/cooling hoses going to the caliper and center of the rotor. LSD is a must, either a 1 way aftermarket unit or a stock VLSD will work fine. All fluids need to be changed to synthetic from the engine to differential. A rollcage will be required along with a fire extinguisher, race suit, helmet, gloves, and shoes, all scca approved fire resistant. External power cut-off switch may be required, and the steering lock must be disabled(pin removed)or removed altogther.
How much you will be able to mod your car depends on what class you run. Typically in a spec type class there will be minimal mods allowed. These classes are alot of fun because everyone's car is very close and it's all driver, and more people participate because the cost is alot less. One thing I realized is that for road racing the car must be a dedicated track car to be competitive. The brake ducting usually interferes with the steering raduis and they have to be removed for street use. The setup that works well on the track will be skateboard stiff for the street, and if nothing else the required #'s and class markings can attract unwanted attention on the street from Police or riceboys trying to pic a race. The cage and required window net can be a pain for daily use. If you are going to roadrace I'd recommend getting a theft recovery or etc auction car because you don't need alot of interior and it doesn't have to be pretty. Sticky tires(your own and your competition) will flick rocks and crap at your car and ding it up, you may spin out or rub fenders and bump the competition. Don't want to make it sound scarry it's not, it's ALOT of fun! I ran a old 1st gen RX-7 I got 3 rolling chassis's for $100 and didn't have to worry if I f'd up because I'd just swap all the gear into the next one. At one point we had a 53 car group of Rx-7's and GTI's it was an awesome race working thru all the traffic.
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