INJEN air intake...
 

Okay so i went to the local car shop here in fresno and they are selling this INJEN air intake for a 240sx 89-90 SOHC and heres the thing...its labled COLD AIR INTAKE on the box...What i've been hearing is that they don't make cold air intakes for a SOHC KA24E engine. I pulled it out and it looks alot like a short ram air intake. He claims its a cold air but damn it just goes right into the air box on the side nothing goes below the car...So..heres the thing its going for 209$ but i have a real strong gut feeling its a short ram. (I don't really care short ram or cold air cause i love the rain) so basically
"do they make cold air intakes for a SOHC KA24E engine?"

Thanks u guys are great!

Dante

Ur actually right, that is a short ram intake by Injen. Shop around tho cause that is pretty expensive. But they also make extensions for the Short Ram to make it into a Cold air. I think that runs 40 or 50 bucks.

i'm pretty sure you can get the extention on www.240sxshop.com

and hell go ebay if you need to... you dont need name brand its not that big of a power difference enyways as long as you swap it for the K&N filter

oops thats http://www.240sxstore.com/

Aren't most of those ebay intakes ($25-$60) only 2.5" piping while AEM ($150ish) and Injen ($200+) are 3"?

Something to think about... I'm planning on getting an AEM short ram for my 24DE....

i think you're right... but then again you get what you pay for, and AEM is tested and does show a significant power gain, worth the extra cash

yeah, the cheap ones are 2.5" :)

Haha, let me tell you guys a funny story about AEM intakes. I went to a dyno day and a TSX went to get a dyno. He brought his stock intake along to see the increase in hp he got from his AEM one. SO he dynos with his AEM one first. Then he puts on his stock intake on. It showed that with the stoick intake on, he lost 2hp and gained 2ft-lbs. SO basically he spent a bunch of money for an intake that only was shown to work past 6k rpms. He stock intake w/o the resonator was almost as good as the AEM one. Only reason to get an intake would be if you have other already done to the engine, such as header, exhaust system, etc to get it breathing better. And if you want the inatke sound. just cut your airbox, it's free :D

hmmm i got the intake. If n-e thing i'll sell it when the engine goes. I knew from the start it wasn't going to be like adding a turbo charger in the truck engine (sarcasm) i still like it. It's all black i've never seen that color before. Mmmm im happy plus got some ngk spark plug wires. So im happy:) as for the intake. Man this guy will say anything to sell a product. Lol hmmm its his job soo...n-e ways overall im happy with the purchase:)

hey i know this is random but how do i get a cool name instead of junior member?

i got a question. i jewed out and bought a filter and MAF adapter plate. now my question is what the hell do you guys do with the IAT sensor on the stock box? do you just unplug it and everything is kosher? or remove it from the box and tape it near the filter?

i refuse to believe that a bigger intake pipe will make more power. the 3" vs. the 2.5" pipe. it would just bottleneck at the throttle body anyway. does anybody know its diameter? i do think that a polished metal pipe would be better than the plastic one, although not significantly. and what little you gain from that would be lost by it weighting a tad more. $200 - $300 (or even more) is ridiculous for just a shiny pipe and a better filter. i think the way to go is just a good cone filter to replace the stock air box, or the k&n drop in rectangle filter for the air box and just pull out the pipe underneath the box.

no way an intake can make these numbers they show
http://www.2kracing.com/information/aem_dyno.html

+12hp on a 100hp focus? no way.

i think the +2hp -2ft-lbs is more believable

good question... how big is the throttle body? I thought I read somewhere that is is 3" and that's why the 2.5" pipes suck because they have to step down.... but i could be wrong...

anyone want to correct me on this?:dunno:

I mean if the throttle body is only 2.5" then hell with it, I'll get an ebay pipe and throw a K&N on it.

the bigger intake pipe creates more velocity, it's not to get more air. the pipe is tuned and sized to create more velocity and charge the incoming air.

BTW i put the filter on today. that with the resistor mod pulls nicely and sounds good. not bad for under $25

You can always bore out your TB and port and polish it a bit if you want more performance too.

a pipe with a larger diameter would lower velocity. air flows slower through a large pipe, and faster through a small pipe to move the same amount of air.

i was just about to say the throttle body is 69mm but i scrolled down on the page and found conflicting info again... :(
http://www.club240.com/forums/showth...ttle+body+size

69mm = 2.7"

i'll just measure it on monday since i was going to clean it anyway.

well yeah whoops. forgot that. unless your boosting.

well the pipes like i said are tuned to the engine. so it is larger than stock but not too big and smoother so it flows better.

ok, i had a ka24E (now swaped out)

And to tell the truth the injen intake wasn't worth the money.
The Filter isn't anything special. I can find a better K&N at pepboys.
The piping is smoother cause its round and mandrel bent but i didn't get anypower from it honestly. If u find an adapter and fit a K&N it will be just as good maybe better.
Also the AIV u can either get rid off the whole assembly or use a small filter on the line(the kind ppl use for valve covers)

hmmmm so is it really worth it to get 3" AEM over a 2.5" generic ebay if I plan to do a I/H/E setup?

I've definately decided against injen.... I ain't paying $200+ for an intake...

you can always cut the bottom out of the air box and get a rectangular k&n filter. only cost would be the filter and i think its cheaper than the cones.

well i measured the tb. but i forgot what it was. :angry: think it was around 2 5/8" so the same as what was in my last post.

Like what one of the previous posts, What do you do with the air flow sensor meter?:rolleyes:

Has any actually used the smaller piping and put a name-brand filter on the tubing, and could you notice the difference, if any?:dunno: :rolleyes:

bah, I bought an injen... got it for $130, haha. I'll be putting it in when my car comes back from the body shop. :D

i`m runnin a full injen cai on an obd1 s14 ka. as a short ram only, it made a great sound but didnt seem to do much for the power. Add on the extension, though and it throws you back into the seat startin at 3k. winter makes it even better, the car runs with the temp gauge so low it worries me, but the car pulled 130 pretty strongly more than once in the past few days. strange though, how every time it went past 120 it would do the governor "bump" at 115 after that.
btw, that`s with just ngk wires and bosch plugs. no mods elsewise, though i`m gonna do some fluid changes and other engine maintenance this week.

Haha, that'w why us S13 guys have it swell. We can run short ram and ram air it with sleepy eyes and vented lamp cover :-D Cold air galor.

hmmm don't u have any worries about water with the extention?

I'm sure this is going to get me cyber-b****slapped for being such a retard newb, but isn't your 240s stock intake better than an aftermarket shortram? On my ka24e (and on every de i've seen) there is another plastic pipe leaving the airbox and heading south, just like a cold air extension on that Injen I've been eyeing. Also, as long as you're hitting me and making fun, I guess I should keep newbing it up with my other silly question: Does the Injen cold air extension for the ka24de fit the e? It's listed for every year 240 on the Injen site except 89-90.
Please don't baby-powder me, and if there are any kind souls left out there, thanks for your help in advance.

That extension leads to an enclosed plastic box and it's purpose is basically to quiet the intake. So no, stock is not better.

if it has an intake resonator all it does is add restriction. stock intake pipe isn't straight as possible and smooth. it's made to be quiet. so a larger aftermarket is better if your motor breathes better.

although some cars do have optimal power with the stock box. example. the integra type r, engine left stock you will lose power going from the stock intake to an aftermarket, unless it's a top of the line $500 intake, like the J's racing or Mugen, i think those are the only two intakes that increase power over the ITR stock intake. even then it's minimal. some cars are just designed sooo well.

Maybe it isn't worth it but heres a few things i noticed about it...

(keep in mind i drive with a ka24e engine)
- I have an exhaust system and with the intake on it made it sound alot cleaner and smoother..instead of a dirty noisy loud it's a clean smooth kinda loud sound

- In 5th gear it seemed to increase my torque a little bit it feels like it still pulls more than usual.

- A clean shiny black injen air intake looks so sexy under the hood.

thats about all i really noticed about it. I hope it helps:)

You should be able to feel it in all the gears since it affects the engine and not the tranny.

5th gear would be more noticable as it's an overdrive gear. with minimal gains from intake and exhaust it's harder to feel the lower gears unless u use a gtech or a stopwatch.

with an 8lb flywheel and intake in my integra LS 5th seemed to pull better. not a lot more but noticable.. haha and after the flywheel with ****ty tires 1st gear was useless if i got on it and 2nd too if it was wet or sandy. tires mean everything.

Thanks guys for all your help. I think I check every angle before I ask but I guess denewbification just takes time. And what rookie post would be complete without another question? RealDS13, how much did you pay for your intake, where from, and is it a shortram or extended cold air? The cheapest I have found them is $175 at i-m-racing.com. And for you other experts, if I want a cold air, should I buy the extension Injen sells and pray it fits or go the fabrication route?

P.S. I don't know exactly how waterlock works but I understand the concept, so find something more creative to bust on me for.

yeah, I've heard too many horror stories about water locking so I'm not gonna get any extention. I got my injen short ram cheap off some kid that crashed his 240 and I'm pretty happy with it.

water locking basically happens when you drive thru a puddle or something... and the intake being all the way down in ur fender sucks in water. the water goes into the engine. Unlike air, water doesn't compress, and it brings ur engine to a halt. If enuf water gets in there you engine won't start up again without major repairs....

With my altima i drilled an oval hole into my filter and then screwed in the plate in the back and put the sensor into the intake. it does make a difference. it reads intake air temp only but fuel addition is affected by it. once i didthis fuel economy went up and i didn't run as rich. there isn't any hp difference if you were wondering

http://www.altimas.net/registry/user...ures%20022.jpg

$130 brand new? BTW I just PM'd you

$130.... practically new... this kid put it in his car and then crashed his car like a month later. the intake is mint, the filter wasn't even dirty when i bought it.

PM reply sent.

i got mine for about 200 bucks in the box. Its this black polished intake. I've never seen black before but i still like it:) 130? thats a steal!

Just to clear up some info........
Many people assume that a 3" won't make very much difference than a 2.5". The fact of the matter is that the engine is pullying atmospheric pressure. If you allow an additional .5" of intake you are creating additional air mass, which is a great plus for combustion. The point of having a cold air intake with a larger diameter is to somewhat force feed your engine. The colder air and the greater the mass of the intake, the more air molecules the engine can consume before TDC. Even if the throttle body is slightly smaller it would create more velocity.
Honestly don't waist your time with intake and headers first, I would rather stack my chip's on an internal build up like cams and machining. Then when you do the externals such as intake, headers, and sensors you will see a greater increase in HP.
But if you want to pay $130 for an Injen and 1 or 2 Donkey's in HP that is your perogative.
If I were you save your money, and just buy a cheap15 or 30 dollar air filter.

If you cut it down to basics, an engine is an air pump. Thats why it's kind of funny when someoe says that they gained a whole bunch of horsepower by swapping to a high flow finter, intake syste, headers, and exhaust. You didn't really "gain" anything - you just gave the engine better breathing, so that it can produce horsepower easier. With the exception of Porsche, Ferrari, etc. all 'general class" stock engines aren't performing to their maximum potential - they're all basically detuned for the following reasons (if not more):

1) fuel consumption
2) driveability
3) noise level
4) engine longetivity

And manufacturers do this in order to have cars that get good mileage, are comfortable and easy to drive, and will last long during the daily grind.

Truth is, air filters, headers, and exhaust do not ADD anything. Like what Vinnie said - you'll see more quote-unquote "gains" in HP when you change these parts on a built engine as opposed to a stock engine - and that is because you're letting a tuned engine breathe better, so that it can generate it's capabilities better.

Keep in mind we're talking NA here. regardless of intake type, an NA engine will only "suck in" up to a certain amount of air through each engine cycle. Thus, freer breathing (filter, header, exhaust) won't give the engine "more air" for more power - it just lets the engine breath in as much as it can without the restrictions of the factory filter, header, exhaust.

So this is where I disagree with "bigger is better". Yes - a 3" intake pipe will probably give more power gain than a 2.5, but does that mean a 4, or 5, or 6 inch will "add" even more? Not really. It's all dependent on what the engine is trying to pull in in relation to it's needs. There's a limit as to how big the piping should be before you're just taking up too much space with piping.

The common intake size is usually 3" because 1) OEM throttle bodies are near this size, and 2) 3" mandrel piping is still small enough to fit within the confines of an engine bay and the closed hood.

Finally, a "cold air" system DOES NOT give more air by volume compared to a short ram. It's not as if there's no air whatsoever inside the piping at all times - there's always air in there. Cold air systems show more power increase because of air density, not mass. It's already a given that cold air (from the outside) is more dense than hot air (from under the hood). Thus for 1 part of air going into the engine per cycle, you'll have more oxygen packed into that part of air if you pull the air from a colder source.

I hope that + Vinnie's post sheds some more light on the whole intake situation

:)

Well said!! One of my friends who is even poorer than me (rare) made a "air intake" by simply taking dryer tubing and attaching a filter to the end of it. For all intesive purposes it worked fine. Personally I have a kind of rigged up ram air set-up. First I bought a AEM short ram intake. This was my first upgrade and it was very easy to install. Then much later on, i figured "why not remove this little piece under my turn signal in my front bumper (i have a 93 S13) and use something to funnel the air back to my filter. So with a little adaptation of the old air filter box, a cone, and some duck tape I managed to set up a ram air system.

Now before I get nailed from people saying well that doesn't like give you 5 or 10 horsepower or anything, I KNOW. My friends and I were bored out of our minds one night so we said, "why don't we figure out a way to route more fresh air to your intake?" So yeah it serves its purpose that we built it for, but i realize it's not like I just added a SAFM system or anything.