interior is 90% done




threw this on just for kicks, the manifold isnt on the rear head studs so thats why its angled so far to the right

 

worked on the car again this weekend, didnt get much done but i did get started on the fuel lines. this is something ive never done before so i tried my best lol. i wanted to do braided line but i cant afford to right now.

jacked my parents garage, soooo much more room.




all the new lines


first line bent to go up over the drive shaft leading to the driver's side


its a pita to flare lines under the car, the tool i used sucked also


i cut and bent the existing fuel lines so i could add on to them, i would have preferred to re-do them from the tank back but i would have had to drop the diff and tank plus this should work fine and im going to end up with stainless braided line in theand future anyway.


new lines, just held up in place by hand, as long as they dont leak, i should be good


and here is where the large straight portions i got will connect. i still need to bend them to the form of the under body and decide on a way to mount them. in this pic they are just hanging, they line up almost as good as factory when in place, hugging the floor.

 

just made an order to summit and atp turbo.

-m12-1.25 to -4 an straight adaptor
- - 4an stainless braided oil feed line with a 90 degree fitting at the turbo inlet.
- 4 inch aluminum 45 degree intake tubing
- 4inch black coupler
- 3 4 inch t-bolt clamps
- 6 2.5 inch t-bolt clamps
- 3 inch 2 bolt exhaust gasket
- 3 inch v-band flange
- 3 inch v-band clamp
- o2 sensor bung

 

Finally had a chance to read this entire thread, and the progress looks great.... can't wait to take a ride in this.

 

baller as ****!

 

thanks guys. yeah steven hopefully its done soon, ill bring it by for sure.

 

got my earls fitting for the oil feed to the block


mounted the fpr


fuel lines, not yet mounted to the floor


used an old honda bracket to make a fuel filter bracket


fuel filter mounted




re-ran the coolant lines

 

got a lot of the parts i need to finish the car off....atp sent me the wrong size clamps for the ic piping so ill prob use the current t-bolt clamps if i can get it running before the right ones get here.

oil feed line, v-band clamp and flange for dp, 4 inch intake pipe, 4inch couple, t bolt clamps for the intake (just because they look better lol), exhaust gasket for midpipe to axle back


just on the cat turbo compressor for kicks. intake pipe will be painted or shined up. probably gonna go flat black with it and all the ic piping though


-10 an fitting adapter for the turbo oil return


-10 an line for the oil return, hopefully the 45 degree will allow the hose to clear the manifold runners. if not, ill try a 60 degree i guess.


about half way done wire wheeling the turbo mani

 

are you not going to move the wg?

 

oh no i definitely am, going to try and get it done this weekend. i figured i need to get all the paint off it anyway before i take it in. but yeah i was contemplating not doing it but i read a bunch of stuff on supraforums and too many people were having problems with spiking with wg runners like mine. my biggest thing is how to do it. like where to cut the existing runners off and what not. ideally i should do it right at the collectors, but i just hope the local shops can handle the job

 

did a bit more work this weekend, wanted to try starting the car but i ended up not even touching the wiring harness yet unfortunately....

-10 an adapter for the turbo oil return


fitment is very tight, the hose is only about an 1/8 of an inch from the manifold, but with the compressor housing on, an 60 degree wouldnt clear it. im just going to heat wrap the manifold and use a heat sleeve for the an hose.




for the oil line


oil feed line fits perfect, length is just right.


goes straight into the block rather than a side type using a banjo bolt like before.


got this plug for the fpr, its not the right one lol, but it should work and it looks better than the hose with a bolt in the end. ill order the right one if this one leaks


found the -6an 90 for the end of the fuel rail.



ran the fuel return hard line all the way up, stops only a few inches below the regulator.


regulator set-up done


no reason for this one


coated the comp housing with some 1500 degree aluminum paint


cut the intake tubing to fit and sprayed it

 

finished spraying the axle back to match the rest of the exhaust piping.



also sprayed all of the charge piping, the two smaller pipes were just made from what came with the car. I cut it up so now i can have the compressor outlet at the bottom, allowing room for the intake pipe. looks a lot better too


decided it had been green long enough


as it was drying, i made the fuel line stays. picked this up from lowes


cut the sides shorter, and got some screws. padded the inside of it, works great. lines can still move if you push on them hard meaning nothing is binding when its tightened up


return line needed something to keep it from moving around up front



all dry, car is pretty dirty in the spots that werent just sprayed. it definitely doesnt look great considering i didnt use primer and used 99 cent duplicolor gloss black haha. it is better than before though and the whole car will be professionally sprayed in the summer hopefully.

 

i laid the harness out and detangled a bit of it but then ran out of time


all of these wires are coming off the diagnostic port, and arent connected to anything. can anyone tell me what they go to, if anything?



can anyone identify these plugs?


i know this one goes to a sensor or something under the intake manifold on the left (more towards the front of the car) side of the block. im not sure what it is though.



all the parts just waiting to go in


Thanks

 

Looks like you made awesome progress this weekend man.

 

i started on the engine wiring harness this weekend. I did not get it done and I was really hoping that i was going to since i spent the entire weekend working on it. Its definitely understandable when people are asking close to $500 to make these things, it takes a lot of time. For mine, I am really just fixing/removing all the wires that are needed. As far as i know, the harness worked perfectly fine before but it looked like shi*. Id say its a little over 50% done.

started by spreading everything out


i then cut off every plug and labeled everything. also wrote down details for every connection to avoid confusion.




I untangled everything and divided things by each ecu plug and their respective wires






these wires are all over the harness, connecting plugs to each other, and grounding some as well
a lot of the clutter was from these not being organized at all inside the old harness


after all that, i went ahead a plugged all of the plugs in on the engine. this would be a million times easier if it wasnt in the car..., unfortunately i dont have a cherry picker so this is what i have to work with.


decided to label all of the wires coming from the ecu plugs. should make it easier to diagnose wiring problems if/when they arise.


began running the wires. a lot of lengthening and shortening had to be done in order to get things where i need them. all of the green zip ties are just to organize and hold things where they need to be so i can get the correct lengths. of course when its all done, i will zip tie everything together exactly how it will be when installed permanently. then i will take it all back out, cut off the ties, and loom/sleeve and heatshrink it all together.






the factory toyota diagnostic port will be down under the master cylinders now, rather than hanging underneath the intake manifold like it was before.


wires coming into the cabin, it will come out much cleaner than before.


repaired and wired the alternator plug. had to take the pins out and re-solder it due to the old wires cracking off