RyGuy's Build Thread
06-20-2007, 10:39 PM
#1
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RyGuy's Build Thread
Yes, I finally feel that it is time to make a build thread. I got my Stance Basic coilovers on (well half of them, the rears go on tomorrow) and they will be going lower.
Hmm, what is this? It's a 1991 240sx SE!
Yes it's dark, there will be daytime pictures soon. Also painted the wheels black.
This is Dusty. He helped me put the coilovers on. Well, he sat there and supervised.
This is the before. How gay is that?!
Got some other goodies too. Safc Neo, waiting on the turbo to go in.
Theres an Injen SRI under the hood too, but that uselessness is coming out when the turbo goes in. The turbo itself is sitting in the shed. Soon, turbo, soon I will be ready for you. But, eBay or custom exhaust is next...
I found some things that upset me though. Neither of my sway bars are still connected to the car- the end links have rotted away, along with 2 fist size sections of the floor pan, all the way through too. The whole front drivers side frame has been cut out and re-welded in too. This car was in a pretty hard crash. I may be looking for a new shell or car soon.
Hmm, what is this? It's a 1991 240sx SE!
Yes it's dark, there will be daytime pictures soon. Also painted the wheels black.
This is Dusty. He helped me put the coilovers on. Well, he sat there and supervised.
This is the before. How gay is that?!
Got some other goodies too. Safc Neo, waiting on the turbo to go in.
Theres an Injen SRI under the hood too, but that uselessness is coming out when the turbo goes in. The turbo itself is sitting in the shed. Soon, turbo, soon I will be ready for you. But, eBay or custom exhaust is next...
I found some things that upset me though. Neither of my sway bars are still connected to the car- the end links have rotted away, along with 2 fist size sections of the floor pan, all the way through too. The whole front drivers side frame has been cut out and re-welded in too. This car was in a pretty hard crash. I may be looking for a new shell or car soon.
Last edited by ryguy; 06-20-2007 at 10:43 PM.
06-21-2007, 10:12 PM
#4
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Here's where she sits right now. The front needs to go lower an inch or two. I think the rear is good but maybe I'll go back up half an inch or so, camber is killing me.
06-21-2007, 10:25 PM
#5
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I found some things that upset me though. Neither of my sway bars are still connected to the car- the end links have rotted away, along with 2 fist size sections of the floor pan, all the way through too. The whole front drivers side frame has been cut out and re-welded in too. This car was in a pretty hard crash. I may be looking for a new shell or car soon.
06-21-2007, 10:48 PM
#6
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Yep, the salt and snow are eating it. The snow is fun to drive in, but the car sure as hell does pay for it. I love the hell out of this car but I dont know how long it's gonna last.
06-22-2007, 07:10 AM
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I have been seriously considering this for my undercoating/rust reformer
http://rustbullet.com/
I've done a lot of research on it and it seems like the real deal.
My dad is a firm believer, and I guess I agree, that a regular spray on undercoating is a bad thing. If a small section bubbles and cracks, it can actually hold water against the floorpan.
http://rustbullet.com/
I've done a lot of research on it and it seems like the real deal.
My dad is a firm believer, and I guess I agree, that a regular spray on undercoating is a bad thing. If a small section bubbles and cracks, it can actually hold water against the floorpan.
Last edited by ryguy; 06-22-2007 at 07:17 AM.
06-22-2007, 08:00 AM
#9
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^^^ nononono. Find out a place where you live that does Rhino-Liners. Have them put your car on a lift and spray it. My dad did it to his jeep after re-welding in new floorpans and even rocks and **** cant hurt it. You can even get it sprayed in different colors.
-# Professionally sprayed-on polyurethane - polyurea elastomer.
# A flexible and tenacious bond to metal, fiberglass and wood surfaces.
# Remains flexible from -40º to 190º F.
# Excellent abrasion and chemical resistance.
# Coating thickness varies.
# The seamless membrane can be lightly used immediately.
^^^some stats.
-# Professionally sprayed-on polyurethane - polyurea elastomer.
# A flexible and tenacious bond to metal, fiberglass and wood surfaces.
# Remains flexible from -40º to 190º F.
# Excellent abrasion and chemical resistance.
# Coating thickness varies.
# The seamless membrane can be lightly used immediately.
^^^some stats.
06-22-2007, 02:10 PM
#11
Rhino liners are the toughest you can get for a truck bed. The Rhino dealer was gonna charge me 350 to do the small bed on my Ram when I first got it. And 350 was for all the work and materials.
I would predict it would run about the same or so if you got the chassis ready for them to do the job. Also depends on thickness and how much surface you want done. Really good stuff.
I would predict it would run about the same or so if you got the chassis ready for them to do the job. Also depends on thickness and how much surface you want done. Really good stuff.
06-22-2007, 05:58 PM
#14
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lol he will bite you back too. My dog is racist. He's super afraid of people with dark skin for some reason. Even my white friend's tan mom he is terrified of. I'm sure he means you no offense though.
And Ruiz, those miller lite banners are from a carnival like 5 years ago. My little brother thought they were cool so he put them up.
350 is a little steep for a rhino lining to me I think.
And Ruiz, those miller lite banners are from a carnival like 5 years ago. My little brother thought they were cool so he put them up.
350 is a little steep for a rhino lining to me I think.
06-22-2007, 05:59 PM
#15
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Location: Orlando FL
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....but sno is way worse on the car 
....