installed motor, got everything hooked up, blah blah.... car starts woot woot.... now i go and drive it, and it's sluggish after 4k, where as we all know, that's when the SR's get happy... it's like it bogs, it just doesn't put out the power... compression is 160 across the board too...... i thought it might be something to do with the SAFC so i pulled the MAF wires from the harness and reconnected the harness (those in the know, know that the SAFC runs off the MAF singnal wire).. luckily enough, whoever installed it used spade connectors, so setting it back to original one wire to the ECU was easy....

now, it ran better with it like that, which means that the SAFC was messing stuff up, and it did run, and good... for a bit, maybe till the ECU corrected itself. now the idle is rough at 750, and smooth at 1000k where it likes to stay for some reason.

things i have done already to remedy the problem..

1. disconnected TPS and set time (used a timing light on Cyl#1 coil pack wire, i know supposed to use a spark plug wire but i don't have any)
2. put a volt meter on TPS and reset to .45V
3. changed plugs
4. fiddled with idle screw
5. after setting TPS, disconnected and checked time again, but light kept flickering...
6. Checked MAF by unplugging it while running, car sputtered and died within 3 seconds, reconnected and started up..

i haven't had a chance to drive it since i had all this checked and done, but i know the idle is for ****, like it's missing almost... more like a studder, or a half a miss... and every time i let off the gas after revving it pops.. maybe running rich?

also, it takes about 4 seconds for the car to catch and start... anyone know whats up with that??? maybe it has something to do with everything else...

and another problem, my cheap *** reused the spark plug O-rings for valve cover and filled EVERY one of the plug holes up with oil...the o-ring rubber hardened and doesn't hold a seal i guess.. but i soaked it up with a rag before pulling the old plugs out and putting the new ones in... i'll fix that tomorrow...

any insight guys?????? HALPPSSSS!!!!!

 

run a diagnostic test.. get the codes and refer to your SR20 FSM

bro i told you that you cant run a safc with out setting it up.

 

ignition timing might be off

 

yeah, thats why i pulled the MAF wires from the SAFC to the ECU, i'm only "monitoring" RPM, throttle, and voltage with it now.... but even with the maf wire back to OEM, i'm still having problems..... ARG!!!


i already checked ignition timing with a timing light... thats how i do it right? i had solved all the problems with my KA, but this SR is kinda kicking my ***, i'm sure it's just a simple problem, something i'm overlooking....

could it be valves?
injectors?
some foul up in the wiring?

still at a loss... i'll be tinkering on it today to see if i can figure it out.... and to replace those damn o-rings on the valve cover.... no more oil in the spark plug holes.... ugh....

 

yea check all of the wiring..

if the motor ran fine before and you never touched the CAS, its not timing.

 

pulled the SAFC harness out and set all "OEM" ECU wires where they go...

i pulled the ECU codes, and it gave me error code 13, or coolant temp sensor... which i'm not sure would give me a bad idle....

also, as the engine was running, i disconnected the o2 sensor and nothing happened....

i reset the ECU 5 long lights, 5 short lights, and it still skips/stutters a bit at idle.... and take a bit to crank up.... also when i do crank it, it will fire, i stop turning the key and it immediatly cuts off... like it wants to start, but doesn't... i do that a couple time and it fires up and runs....

any insight???

 

yea the CTS is a Failsafe item just like the MAF and will send your car into Limp mode.

the O2 sensor will do nothing but allow you to run rich. I never ran an 02 becuase i didnt want it f-ing with my tune.

 

so you run no o2 sensor at all? ever? i'm sure at your level you've got a wideband though...

 

so i replaced the CTS off the new motor with the one off the old motor, what was weird was they had different connectors... one on the new motor was a squarish one with the little metal ring holding it on, and it was red... the one i used off the old motor was blue and had a square oval shaped snap on connector... an ideas???

so, initial results are pretty damn good... no more code 13 on the ECU.. car idles alot smoother, but i'm still have a bit of RANDOM sputter at idle... not much, but enough to make my forearm wobble every once in a while....

she now pulls great, after 4k she just lurches and hauls ***... love that T28... but it's still a little sketchy till 4k... probably something to do with timing as it's reading weird now, or maybe running rich... who knows at this point...

i think the next step is checking the O-rings on my injectors, and replacing for good measure...

 

-yes I do have Wideband, but that has nothing to do with the ECU as it is standalone. Narrow Band O2 sensors alters the signals going into the ecu and fuel is adjusted accordingly ( look up Open and Close Loop ). Without an O2 sensor, you are just going to run rich which if you are racing is not entirly bad. However you will need some sort of fuel controler to smooth things out.

to rich or to lean is not good for the motor, it has to be a perfect mixture.

-if you have an extra set of working injectors, put them in and see what happens.

 

I didn't see transistor on your list.. had similar propblem with my ca18det.

 

wow im experiencing the exact same problem and did everything exactly the same as you did. only thing i noticed was that it spudders worse as it warms up. r u experiencing the same thing?