so im currently taking classes at saddleback college in SoCal. The class im very interested in is Auto204-EngineBluePrinting.

411-->Incorporate advanced measuring techniques, machining skills and advanced theory in building a high-performance engine. Advanced cylinder honing, crankshaft balancing, block machining, as well as cylinder airflow studies will be covered using the latest airflow bench techniques.

well i just wanted to know whether or not its worth building and balancing the shiet out of the >KA24DE< that means spending like almost 6 mounths dedicated work and a sum amount of cash.
(under 1k)Rebuild kit, aftermarket pistons, 3mm after market head gasket (30psi), and possibly more stuff.
the reason for doin this is the tools are free at the school and i plan on boosting the ka.
they have every thing in machining!!!!!
-------*drools at every thing machined powered*--------

Any who i just wanted some feed back on what i plan too do with the ka24de..im building the bottom end first!
I WANT OPINIONS!

i know for sure if i wanted to boost higher then 6 psi. i would need better pistons . but what i want to know is whether the rods are forged or cast?
any kind of info or opinion would be shiz nitz.

I will post pics of the work im gona be doin soon =)

 

Go 4 it, and keep me updated

Im also going to build a KADET

 

i'm going to turn my ka24de-T into a KA25de-t and i'm going to run 7-14PSI...should be a kickAzz ride....keep us updated on how things are going....show some pic's.....will help alot of people out........

 

Bottom END

KNife edge the crank
eagle forged rods in the H beam style (nissan uses cast shot peened)
wiseco forged pistons in 8.5 CR
titanium crank bearings


Head work

port out the intake side .40over
remove the crappy secondary butterfly's
leave exhaust ports stock
CA18det titanium retainers and springs (from the CA18det)
Crower V series cams

 

one thing that gets forgotten about... chamafer the oil passages on the crank the rods and wrist pins on the pistons (if the rods and pistons did not come this way) and in the cam journals... greatly improves bearing life ... then micro polish the hell out of every contact area... anywhere there is a bearing polish the hell out of it...

 

thnx guys. the ideas i like ---->
----bottom end-------
knife edge -fo sho
piston & rods- any body know a bomb deal on these??
the combo (piston,rod) is like at least 1k.
crank bearings-i decided to go with Toga bearings

-----top end---------
port out the intake side .40over- ?air flow bench press ? what does .40 mean.. grind down .4mm over??reply again explain

remove the crappy secondary butterfly's ?? explain
leave exhaust ports stock- ok(considered it)

CA18det titanium retainers and springs (from the CA18det)
what does this do?explain? i had ferrea valves and springs and retainers inmind?

Crower V series cams
they make cams for the ka24de? how much? and whats the web site??
ive been looking at this website
www.importperformanceparts.net

 

You can get the eagle rods and wiseco pistons from www.nizzx.com for under $900, email Mike and negotaiate a bit he might cut you a really good deal for a package. Toga bearings are a good choice.
On the intake side the diameter will be increased under 1mm @ .40mm, you can use an after market head gasket to trace your larger port size.
Secondary butterfly's are found in the each runner of the KA24e and DE mani's up untill mid 95. They consume 1/3 of the runners and decrease flow rate at higher RPM. If you would rather speed the process up on the removal you can just order the upper half of the 96-98 mani.
JUN makes the retainers and springs in titanium, much stronger too use for higher rev and boosting. CA and KA bucket hydraulics, springs, and retainers are interchangeable.
I saw a couple of guys from nico that bought the cams, you will probably want to go through KA-T.org, they are the only place to offer the cams, and they claim that they are the best for high boosting and achievable numbers in HP. I don't know whatthey cost. If not the PDM cams work fine also.
Hope that this info helped.

 

Heres the update on the crower V2 cams, they also make a V3.
http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6096
Read this thread carefully, you need to get the part number and what I understand it is done for members of KA-T.org. Send in your cams and they weld (hard face) and regrind to new specs for $400.

 

lots of good info here guys. thanks.
i'm thinking of doing the KA-t setup also, instead of the
ever popular SR.
driftingjdm240 mentioned a KA25de-t please explian.

tia fellas.

 

there is a whole thread i posted about it......you turn the ka 2.4L into a 2.5L + i'm turbo....so it will be a nice ride

 

Actually I will take credit where credit is due.....
I was a major contributor to this thread since I know what I have done in builds and with my own research.......

http://www.club240.com/forums/showth...ight=2.6+litre

 

BigVinnie...you did the research, i asked the question....without both...there would be no thread to talk about....i didnt mean for it to sound like i was taking the credit for the whole post...i was telling him that i started a thread about it and he should go look at it

 

Your right, I'm not trippin. When is the just shy of 2.5litre KA going to be done????

 

soon ....i hope...i'm getting a new motor in a week with 56K on it and i'm going to make that into the 2.5L Turbo....post pics when i start.

 

k so im back from work and school..hmm where was i oo yea .. IVE GOT A BLOCK.. 100K + .. so far its been taken apart and checked and cleaned. the blocks condition is GREAT!!! .. so far no significant wear on the cylinder wall..(no taper on the walls).. did thicknes check.. came out GREAT.. did magna flux... NO CRACKS...
Basically i have a good block for now...
at the moment im working on picking up some SRP pistons (8.5-1)..
my engine is at school at saddle back.. cleaned and preped and ready for the pistons.. i have to wait till i get the pistons cause i cant hone it till i figure out the actual size of the pistons and rings.

ill send more pics.. these came out of my razor cell phone.lol not to bad?
pics
when we first got the motor... we didnt have any straps. but safety strap work well.

got the valve cover off...every thing looks good.

finally every thing is taken apart

that day took us like 4 hours to sort and bag bolts and clean and check EVERY THING. the block was sent to college the next day.

after all that we took this pic lol


ong after that founds some free time to paint this. (used thermal paint)

well so far not soo bad .. i will take more pics with my phone lol. i just found out i can get some what clear pics with it ..any way the pistons and rods are on the way.