ok so i read the FAQ here and my goal is 350 WHP. now to that i am planning on doing an engine build from the bottem to the top. I researched for about an hour or two, i came up with about $6000 in parts, from rebuild kit to the turbo. My plan is to get another KA long block and build it. But my budget is limited but $6000 is in my realm of possibility, after a while... but i do not think i could stay unboosted for that long. Now while building the engine, would it be possible to put a turbo on with all the needed stuff to keep the engine safe, ie: BOV, e-manage, waste-gate etc, and just run lower boost and ignition timing unti lthe build engine goes in? i think i could live with the turbo not being in its efficiency range until the other engine goes in. thanks and sorry for the long first post.

 

that would be the smart way to go

they say the stock ka can take like 300 so just keep it at low boost and then when you have the longblock ready just swap it in


thats just my .02

 

kind of confusing... are you asking if you should boost the engine you have now until you have a built 2nd engine?

 

^^^ yes, and i am planning on doing everything external i can to keep it safe. i could live with ~250WHP for now until the other block is ready to go. i think i may go with the AMS build as it seems to include everything.

 

Yes you can run a turbo on a KA with stock internals but you can not run high boost.

 

would under 10 lbs be safe with the required tuning, to keep it at a STOICH as much as possible?

 

haha.....10 PSI on stock internals on a ka......j/k

no....you should run no more then 10 Psi on stock internals on your ka........but hell...i'm running 15 psi with stock internals.....not every KA is the same and not every ka can handel boost past 10 psi on stock internals.

 

...and not every ka will last long either, especially at 15psi

 

this is true as well..............but i think ill be the judge of that. with my ka anyways

 

You should clarify better...
10PSI is good on stock internals and a little under 225CHP.
At 10 PSI and a stock OEM ecu tune the engine would need to be retarded from the TTP further retarding the engine only increases torque and minimizes HP. Leaving it at stock timing and 10 PSI will only increase detonation.
A proper ecu tune, and a bone stock KA block can make upto 380WHP on pump gas and 18PSI.........
To the thread starter just get a rebuilt for $1100 and get a decent kit for $3500. Get an ecu tune and you are good to go....

 

Sorry to thread jack but driftingjdm did you dyno tune for 15psi?


And SeanC_wa like everyone said, you'll be fine with stock internals, just be sure to tune it... What size turbo?

...Good Luck

 

turbo size has yet to be determined i have not researched enough to find a turbo that i can run low boost and still stay in the effiecency range until i upgrade my block. i will definetly not be putting in a rebuilt block. when i am ready a fully build bottem and top end will be going in. also i am planning on doing e-mangage, or squirt it.

 

If you want to stay effecient on low boost, look into a T28. It blows slightly more CFM than the T25. Pretty much perfect for the displacement size. A T25 would be more efficient for a smaller engine like the sr20......

 

ok now would the t-series turbo be able to handle when i turn up the boost when i put the built long block in? say 20-25 psi

 

The T25 and the T28 both max out @ 1.2Bar that is the equivelant of 17.4PSI.

Read this document. The only thing I am against in his statement is the use of the T28, he claims that it is bad on engines. But he doesn't specify that it is bad for lower displacement engines such as a VG30dett (2 turbo's each being used on a 1.5litredisplacement, which is bad). At the bottom of the website there is a graph that will help you decide on the turbo that you will want for HP/dispacement.
http://ztechz.net/id4.html