Mika

well ive finally gotten all my parts needs for my subs, so today i started the process of putting the subs in the interior quarter panels.

ive cut the baffel boards but ive run into a slight problem with securing them, ive tried sevel screw sizes, and screw/nut combos, and i had a few L brackets and tried that but no luck

ive refered several times to Raine's car domain page and the install guide on **********, but seeing as im a very visual person and the process is vague i was wondering if u guys had any more insight and hopefully larger pictures.

http://www.**********/links/installs/jcope/index.html
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/526842/8

Mika

k well i figured it out...just used some sheet metal screws
now all thats left is to fix the vibrations

Slidin240

that is hott! i like the way it hidden, can this be done in a S13? i wanna do it but i wanna know wats the biggest size that can fit or wats recommended?

Mika

dunno if i can be done in an s13, but as far as the s14 the biggest id say is a 10". when i took up this project i dont know why but i thought it would be alot simpler than it actually was ^^;. personally the longest part was the cutting for the boards, but i guess thats because it was really my first time using a jigsaw and circular saw. try a hole saw if you wanna work a little quicker

now that i know the subs work my main concerns:
amp protection light comes on after playing for a few minutes(possibly subs clipping)
getting rid of the vibrations

quick question to any one thats done this and has minimal to no vibration: What methods did you use to eliminate the vibrations? I was thinking i should have dynamated the metal panels before i siliconed the board into place. Any other advice for the vibrations would be appreciated, ill get pics soon

Slidin240

yes dynamat does wonders, use that to insulate the whoe area around the sub. Should fix your prob

wikd240

as far as the amp protection light comming on... what subs do you have and what kind of amp do you have... what ohms are the voice coils and how many do you have...

if you have an amp that is bridgable did you wire both subs up in bridged mode... if you did this is most likley why the light comes on...

the amp might be bridgable to only one sub... depending on the ohm load of the subs... most amps are bridgable at a 2 ohm load... meaning you can wire the amp bridged to only one woofer if it is a single 4 ohm voice coil... when you bridge an amp you have to cut the ohm load for the speaker in half... example... one sub with one 4 ohm voice coil in bridged mode is a 2 ohm load... 2 subs with 2 voice coils (if wired in paralell - positive from amp to positive of both voice coils negative from amp to negative of both voice coils) gives the amp a one ohm load... most likley your amp is not stable to 1 ohm bridged...

to solve this wire the subs in stereo... meaning one sub per channel on the amp... you will not have as much bass... but your amp wont go into protection...

or get a set of subs that are dual 4 ohm voice coils and wire each subs voice coils in series and then bridge the amp... this is a little harder to do and can get confusing... so catch me on aim if this is the set up you have and i will try to help you with the series wiring... aim wikd24d

Mika

the subs are Kenwood KFC-W2509, each is 4ohm. i wired the two in parallel to produce a 2ohm resistance.
http://www.cardomain.com/item/KENW25092PAK

the amp is Power Acoustik A1000DB. Im thinking that i just need to adjust my levels because wiring in parallel doesnt seem like it should produce any problems with the equipment im running.
http://www.cardomain.com/item/POWA1000DB

about the dynamat, will it be just as effective matting around the, already in place, baffle board? or is it only effective when the area is dynamatted under as well as around?

wikd240

that 2 ohm load is making the amp see a 1 ohm load bridged... car audio is what i did for a living for over 14 years... that is why the amp is clipping... it says it is 2 ohm stable but it is not one ohm stable... like i said when bridging an amp you have to cust the ohm load in half... 2 ohm at the speakers is one ohm at the amp... and that amp cant handle it... a 2 ohm load at the amp would be only one woofer... just like it says... but try turning it down and run it for an hour or so i will bet it will go into thermal protection rather soon if you drive it hard... check out some of the installs i have posted pics of in this forum... i think it will show i know a little of what im talking about...

http://www.club240.com/forums/showth...threadid=23772
http://www.club240.com/forums/showth...threadid=23517

Mika

o i have no doubts about your knowledge ive been following your posts . i thought that the amp would run in 2 ohms as well since the subs would be running in 2 ohm

but if the amp is running in 1 ohm, i also tried wiring the speakers in series and the protection light came on yet again so im at a loss, right now i dont have the wires soldered just wire nutted so i can easily change the speaker wiring (yea i kno needs to be soldered )