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Sound System Inquiry.

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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 11:49 AM
  #1  
g3bio's Avatar
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Sound System Inquiry.

Alpine Type R's are great i heard them in a buddy's car but was still kind of upset that it wasent used at full potential. From what i know it also depends on the amp, but my question is what is a good amp to trust and rely on that wont skip you on the watts. I heard Rockford is great. any idea's? Im willing to get the type R's but need amp and wire kit...

Now is it also a must, well not really but a good idea to get the extra "cap" when getting wiring kit? WHat advantage's and disadvantages does this carry? thanks for your reply's in advanvce!

cheers!
-g3bio
Old Jan 16, 2006 | 02:53 PM
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I hope you realize the set up you are choosing is going to cost you about $2,000. Especially to get you a decent amp. You're going to need 1,000 watt RMS. You should just stick with Alpine too. The Alpine amp that is 900 watt will work fine with your set up.

You're going to need that extra cap too. I recommend going with lightening audio and about 5 farad.

Hope that helped.

Last edited by JessicaS14; Jan 16, 2006 at 02:55 PM.
Old Jan 16, 2006 | 03:37 PM
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I would stick with an alpine amp, keep the same brand all around but that's just me.
Old Jan 16, 2006 | 07:10 PM
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thanks i will keep that in mind jessica but just for a novice what is 5 farad? are u refering to the cable gadges? or am i on crack thanks! for help
Old Jan 16, 2006 | 07:23 PM
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You probably dont need the cap...just get a good solid ground and make (Or buy) A grounding kit (Maybe 2 gauge or 0) for your engine bay (Alternator ground, chassis, block, etc). As for the amps...Kenwood have been the best bang for the buck IMO...I have one powering an L5 kicking out 400 RMS at 2 ohms...hits hard and NEVER overheats...Doesnt even get warm

KAC-8151D is the model number, its 1 ohm stable and puts out 500 RMS at 1...you can get two for 500 bux. Wire two 2 ohm DVC Type Rs in Parallel to get a one ohm load each and your set...

2 cents..

Last edited by Fast1One; Jan 16, 2006 at 07:28 PM.
Old Jan 16, 2006 | 08:24 PM
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The guy is either going to have to have the cap, or he is going to have to upgrade his battery because the electrical system can't handle that much. It's too much current draw.

A farad is a unit of measure of power handling capacity.
Old Jan 16, 2006 | 08:28 PM
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you dont NEED a cap, its not a necessary part of the system as many people think. an upgraded battery will help (i know because i drained mine in less than a day). As far as an amp im happy with mine, it cost $200, it is a Poweracoustik A1000DB. This amp will power your subs just fine wired in parallel. BTW i have an optima yellow top...does the trick every time
Old Jan 16, 2006 | 10:34 PM
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^^^O yeah forgot to add the battery...but thats a no brainer I thought he would have the common sense for that...Caps just add more stress to the system, Upgrade "the big three" and your battery and youll be fine....keep us updated...
Old Jan 17, 2006 | 08:23 AM
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Ok, do what you want. Don't use the cap and find out the hard way. Don't say I never helped though.
Old Jan 17, 2006 | 09:56 AM
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^^^ Ill take you up on that As of now running 700 RMS with STOCK BATTERY and no grounding kit... Awaiting funds for the yellow top and ill eventually upgrade the big three when im not lazy...
Old Jan 17, 2006 | 10:19 AM
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A lot depends on how good of shape your alternator is and your wiring. If you've got a bad alternator and ****ty grounds, you're gonna kill your battery faster than you can play a song. If you've got a new/really good alternator and take the time to wire the system with good high quality wire and a good battery, you'll be alright. A cap is always a good idea though as insurance. Plus you don't get the light dimming stobe effect with heavy bass.

There I gave the best of both sides. Fight nice guys and girls, lol.
Old Jan 17, 2006 | 10:30 AM
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Originally posted by Fast1One
^^^ Ill take you up on that As of now running 700 RMS with STOCK BATTERY and no grounding kit... Awaiting funds for the yellow top and ill eventually upgrade the big three when im not lazy...
Exactly how long have you been running your system like that? I'm not trying to sound rude, but I have knowledgeable source to all of this stuff. My fiance had a 500 RMS on a stock battery and it really messed a lot of things up way back in the day. I'm not saying anything WILL in fact happen, but if you don't take the proper precautions, you're setting yourself up for a real mess.
Old Jan 17, 2006 | 10:59 AM
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can someone show me the thread where he put up the component list? Or did I miss something?
Old Jan 17, 2006 | 02:54 PM
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Originally posted by l2aine
can someone show me the thread where he put up the component list? Or did I miss something?
bro you read my mind,anyways am running the xplod 2200 gtx which i belive is like 500 rms bridged to tow 12's with no cap regular autozone batery and alt I belive is the original like 200,000 miles on it with no problem, ive had this set up for four months .and it sounds dam good bought everything of pawn shop $250 12's mtx and the amp..rs
Old Jan 17, 2006 | 03:24 PM
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Originally posted by Fast1One
^^^O yeah forgot to add the battery...but thats a no brainer I thought he would have the common sense for that...Caps just add more stress to the system, Upgrade "the big three" and your battery and youll be fine....keep us updated...

No brainer? lol im glad you know more than i do thats why i asked. ha im learning and upgrading to a yellow top as i have read up on and gotten information from some of you in a previous thread that i have stated. Thanks I will keep you updated once i fix my leak in my car no system till no leak will save me in the long run.



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