RB26DETT_240sx

Well I am deciding that I am going to upgrade my entire stereo system, while installing my subs.

I'm going to be installing

*2) 6 1/2 inch fronts
*2) tweeters front A-Panels (maybe)
*2) 8 inch in the rear side panels, going to custom fab mounting brackets
*2) 4x6 in the rear,
*2) 6 1/2 in the rear hatch cover.

Amp for speakers will be installed and bolted down on the rear hatch cover. Going to be a tight fit!!!

For a total of 10 speakers, plus 2 12 inch subs in the rear. Going to use 2 or 4 amps for the setup, not including amp for the two 12 inchers.

I'm going to stay away from RCA cables for the setup above, and keep the RCA for the 12 inch subs.

Setup is going to be a little difficult, I have to custom fab a wire splitter that will allow me to hook the H/U wires to the splitter, and have 10 speaker output.

After the splitter send each set of speakers to an amp or two. fronts to one amp, rear 8 inch speakers to one amp, and both rear and hatch cover speakers to one amp.

Going to be bad@ss setup IMO!!!

What do you think about the setup?

I'll post a picture of the wiring setup later tonight, after I draw it out in Macromedia Fireworks.

Waynehead05

i i dunno about the 6 1/2's in the privacy cover. that's overboard.

RB26DETT_240sx

Here's the wiring diagram, its not the best, but it works for now, until I write on paper!!!

Color coded for reasons, makes it *somewhat* easier on the eyes!!!!



Wow lots of wiring going to be used!

This project is going to take time and probably make me go crazy!!! oh well!!!

So what do you think?

I may install the 8 inch speakers in the hatch cover, and install the 6.5 inchers in the rear side panels!

Waynehead05

you will need a line driver for sure. in my altima i had 3 amps and needed one so it didn't sound like crap. what it does is it takes the signal from the headunit and magnifies it before it goes to the amps or un amped speakers(in some cases).

if you don't want to pay $109 bux for a penix gold one you had better get i higher end unit from alpine and pioneer and a few other brands that has an option to draw more current to do that from the unit itself.

it makes a wold of difference.
it's the difference between having loud music and liking it and having blaring music and wanting to turn it up even more.

BTW you will need a second battery. i suggest 0 gauge or 4 gauge going to it from your engine bay battery. make sure you ground it so it gets charged too.


(get an alarm first)

RB26DETT_240sx

already have an alarm

I knew I needed a line driver, I don't use 2 batterys harder on the altenator, I'm getting a 150amp alt.

I'm running 0 gauge to a distribution block, then after the distribution block, I'm going to be running 4 guage to the power caps and amps, unless the amps are for 8 gauge wiring.

I got it all figured out already, I've been installing stereo systems for almost 5 years now.

I try to stay with MTX Audio. I have may reasons for this. But I'm tired of typing it.

But I'll have to get a different brand for the line driver

RB26DETT_240sx

I'm going to use RCA's instead of building that splitter.

JL Audio has
speaker lines to RCA that I'm going to use!!!

wikd240

first off just so you know... the jl audio ecs cables are designed to be used with their amps... the jl amps have an attinuation switch just for that cable...using them on other amps will lead to distortion due to the fact it is an unmodified high level signal going into a low level input... what this means is... you are takin a signal that gets stronger as the volume goes up and wiring it into an input that is designed for a constant voltage... this will lead to major amounts of distortion...

now if you want to use speaker level outputs to power the amps (which i or any other person who has been installing systems professionally) would suggest against you need to get speaker level converter... they change the voltage comming out of the headunit into something that is more stable for the amps to use... plus most of them have filters built into them to reduce distortion as the volume goes up...

the ideal situation would be to use a crossover that gives you the outputs you need... audio control pheonix gold rockford fostgate and even mtx all make units that will do what you need... as well as give you adjustable crossover points for all outputs...

here is the way i would set up your system... i suck at drawing so i will type it out for you...

first off head unit... has to be a quality piece... 3 sets of rca outputs... one set for front ...one set for rear... one set for sub...

front set of rca outputs go into amp one that will run your front set of componant speakers (6.5 mid and tweet combo) with the crossover network they come with...

rear set of rca outputs will run to a 3 way cross over...the reason for this is... you will need a way to set the 8 inch speakers up as a midbass driver only... having highs come out of the 8 inch will not only sound like a$$ but will also produce highs that sound like they are being played in a tin can... i would set the cross over points for the 8 inch midbass driver to run from 80 hz up to about 120 hz... that will be the only frequencies they 8 inch speakers will play... killer midbass especally if you are installing them into the rear fenderwell area (like raine and others have done) then set the other set of rca outputs from the cross over from 120 hz all the way up... and use that signal to run the other speakers in the system...

sub rca cables run right to the sub amp...

easiest way to run the system you are planning on running...

but in my opinion... more speakers is not always the best way to get a better sounding system...louder yes... better sounding... not always... if it were mine to do i would use the front componants 8 inch midbass driver and subs... that would be it... and use the cross over to tune the signals to each amp to reproduce the whole spectrum of sound... cheaper easier to wire and less of a strain on your system...

RB26DETT_240sx

I got the stereo system wiring figured out.

Here is the diagram

Going to be using MTX, Steetwires, and Pheonix Gold.

Its going to be about 2000 watts give or take 200watts total.

Took me almost 3 days to layout and design the diagram. I had a lot of fun!!! seriously!!!

I'm going to be custom building the hatch cover to be plexi-glass, and the wiring will be inside that, and running out of the front. I will be using 2 120mm fansj (installed on the bottom of the hatch cover) to dispate the heat buildup. The 3 amps will be installed in the plexi-glass cover as well.

The hatch cover will still move up when I lift the hatch up. Just a little harder though.

The bass amp will be installed in a custom fiberglass box in the hatch, with the 2 12" on each side in the rear of the hatch.

I'm looking at about 6-9 months to get all items, and to install.

I will be installing dynomat everywhere. I'm getting a new dash, while that is out, I will install the dynomat, in a few weeks.

So what do you guys think of the setup?

Think it will sound nice?

Can't wait until I finish this project!!!

EDIT: Instead of using my hatch cover, I'm going to build the plexiglass box inbetween my backseat and my rear sway bar.

Waynehead05

you do know that a cap is like a battery right? it just doesn't have the same acid in it like a car battery.

i would use a secand battery if i were you and ground it so the car can charge both.

:EDIT: ^hey... azle Texas? outside of Ft. Worth? i'm in the plano area.

RB26DETT_240sx

I decided, that I'm not going to put 10 speakers around. I'm just going to install 4 12" and 2 amps, that will be pulling a max of 3200 watts, and be pulling 256amps from the altenator.

I'm going to get a 200 amp altenator, and upgrade the power wire and ground wire for the altenator.

I don't like using multiple batteries.

I'm going to get this battery here Its a Stinger deep cycle battery

I'm going to be building a custom metal rack, for the subs and amps, and everything else.

I will post a picture that I drew up later on.

Yeah Azle, Texas, its about 30 miles northwest? of Fort worth, just go down 820 then turn on to 199 and follow 199 to 730 N and there is a crappy town of azle.

RB26DETT_240sx

I'm just going to build a fiberglass box, instead of the metal rack.

Be easiet and cheaper, and can't forget lighter