Please post in here i have a few ?'s and would like to know from peolpe with experiences.

I know there is 3 lines for a clutch master and slave, The main, rubber and bleeder correct?

Wat is the rubber line for, and how do u bleed the master?

I've never bleed brakes or anything before but i've seen it done.

Anyone have pix of their clutch they can show me, like where it is mounted ( Master )

I have 2 sites on the swap, one on how to do it and 1 on how to wire it.

I've read that you can use the trans crossmember if you flip it over. Is that true?


And one other question? What parts are interchangable from auto to man.?

 

There is a hardline that runs from the master cylinder (looking at the engine from in front it's on the right hand side, last little resevoir on the right) to the clutch damper box. 99% of people say don't bother with the box cause it's just a PITA and pussifies your clutch pedal. Then there is one line that runs from that to the rubber line. (Some people bend the main line to connect to the rubber I used a connector and got the actual line.) The rubber line then connects to the slave cylinder which is what actually operates the clutch throwout. The rubber line is there to allow movement so the lines don't crack or break if (and when) they move). You can get a stainless steel braided line for more durability and better feel.

Now to bleed the system (2 ways)...there is a bleeder screw on the slave clyinder that you will open to let air out. Then you will push down on your clutch pedal (if the system has a lot of air/ is empty it will stay on the floor). Once it's on the floor, retighten the bleeder screw and bring the pedal back up. Open the screw again (this is easy with 2 people, one in the car one under by the slave), and push the pedal again to the floor. Retighten the screw and repeat as necessary. Make sure you keep making sure that the master cylinder has enough fluid so you don't push more air back into the system (just add fluid as necessary).

The other way to do it (I've seen it this way more often but I don't know if it's as good) is to pump the pedal a few times up and down and THEN open the bleeder screw and air/fluid will burst out. Same basic procedure just a little different.

Feel free to ask more questions and let us know how it goes.

 

Parts list...what needs to be changed....nothing here is reusable these are what you need to get, everything else is reusable from the auto

Manual tranny
Clutch pedal, bracket, and related hardware
Master cylinder
Slave cylinder
Hard lines (main one and at least rubber one)
Clutch kit (clutch disc, pressure plate, thowout bearing, pilot bearing)
Clutch hardware (pressure plate bolts and stuff)
Flywheel and hardware (6 bolts)
Manual pilot bearing (usually included in clutch kit, at least mine was)
Manual driveshaft (abs or non abs...they ARE different)
Manual crossmember (I don't know if the autos can be reused as you stated)
Bellhousing bolts
Shifter plate (goes inside where the shifter goes, replaces the auto shifter plate)

Auto pedal can be used if you cut it a little off the left hand side, or get the manual pedal

This is a general list there are little things left out. There are tons of threads on here as to what you need.

 

yea i know, i've searched around. I just had some ?'s to be asked.


ANyone get me a picture of their clutch slave, where it is mounted

 

also, i dont need a bleeder line? or i do? lol

I know it's part of the parts list.

 

slave is mounted on the passenger side of the transmission. check out the downloadable fsm

 

i have it. I just thought the messed up the pix lol

 

also, i have an electric start and security. How will i by-pass the sensor so it starts?

 

You don't wire in the sensor. On factory equipped manual cars, there is a sensor that won't let you start the car unless the clutch pedal is pressed. If you do a swap you just don't wire in that sensor and the car will start whether you have it pressed or not. (WARNING: IF YOU HAVE THE CAR IN GEAR MAKE SURE YOU PRESS THE PEDAL)...you should always press it anyways....every manual car you need to.....for me it's habit.

Also, there is no such thing as a bleeder line. It's a screw on the slave cylinder like I said before. There is also a bleeder screw on the damper box that I told you not to buy/ put in (the pussifier).

 

Thanks for the help. Since there is no bleeder line there should just be 2 lines for the clutch right? Main line and master to slave line?

Are you talking about the neutral position sensor? I dont need one?

Also Thanks for the help.

 

Yes there are two lines, main line (26$ at a dealer) and the rubber (get stainless steel for 26$ off a performance site), you may have to bend (use a pipe bender) to get it to line up I don't know for sure cause I haven't done it yet.

As for electrical you just need to wire that neutral position switch together so it's always thinking it's in neutral/park.