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Which is the better deal?

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Old 09-15-2004, 03:28 AM
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Which is the better deal?

Alright so I'm looking at two local 240's. Both S14's.
First one:
'95 Base ~103xxx miles
automatic
no lsd
still in very nice shape
light hood damage
under $4k

Potential Plans
S15 front conversion
SR20DET + Manual Trans swap
LSD
Possible 5 Lug conversion
-----------------------------------------
Second One:
'97 SE ~34,xxx miles
automatic
possible lsd
5 lug
slight front scrapes
under $7k

Potential Plans
Turbo Kit
Manual Trans Swap

Right now I've only seen the '95. Friday I'll see the '97. I'm not sure which way I'm leaning on this right now, but I think more for the '97. The basis for this is the front end of the '97, and the low miles.
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Old 09-15-2004, 07:01 AM
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if you turbo the KA in the '97, you're also planning on internal engine work too, right?
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Old 09-15-2004, 10:40 AM
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when you say hood damagae, what kind? I'm thinking you should get the 95,because from what i hear its alot easier to mod than the 96 and up, somethign due to sensors, i forget
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Old 09-15-2004, 11:12 AM
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Bad thing about 96+ is the OBDII...but I honestly don't think it's that big of a deal, I could be wrong though.

I would go for the 97, just because I love them to death
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Old 09-15-2004, 11:47 AM
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-Battle Pope
No I wasn't planning on internals, I figured the '97 was low enough on mileage, and I wasn't going to boost very high ~7-8psi. that it wasn't warranted.

-Cheddar Knight
The hood has a dent near the Nissan Emblem, and it is bent up on the sides slightly. No frame damage or rust under the hood. It's a moot point since I'd do an S15 conversion on the front anyway.

-HyJynX
OBD1 is supposed to be easier to mod, but yeah, I also like the look of the '97+.
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Old 09-15-2004, 11:55 AM
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I'd probably get the '97 (I love the kouki s14's), or you could get the '95 and put the kouki front on
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Old 09-15-2004, 01:14 PM
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First of all I ignored all the "potential" stuff because you can do the same things with either since both cars are S14 (except the whole OBD crap, but whatever)

I'd focus on straightness of chassis, interior condition, and cost of any soon-to-be repairs (if any, like tension rods, etc.) I don't think body is that important (as long as there's no rust) because getting body panels fixed is a lot easier a task than finding all kinds of misc. interior parts if there are a bunch of stuffs broken. Also, if it's going to be a daily driver, at least make sure the stocker KA is in decent running condition. I know you plan on going swap or turbo, but I'm guessing since it's "potential" then you don't plan to do the engine work right away.

But that's just me
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Old 09-15-2004, 03:15 PM
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thanks for the advice l2aine, I'll keep those thinkgs in mind while I'm looking. Yes the car will be a daily driver, and will remain stock for awhile. I need to keep it stock for awhile with the auto because I have a broken ankle from my accident and couldn't drive a stick yet.
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Old 09-19-2004, 02:43 AM
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I'm going with the '95.

It seems to me to be a good deal. The interior is great. Everything but the hood and front bumper are great. The swap will be a reality. My insurance check from my last car is going to help me make this one helluva car. Therefore even though I said potential, these plans will happen in the spring. There's no point on doing these things going into winter with a RWD car since I've never driven one in snow. Closest I've had was a Blazer and that had 4wd.

I'm picking the car up this coming week, and I can't wait. I've always wanted a 240, now I'll have one.

edit:
about the '97...it was nice, aftermarket sunroof which he denied, but he wanted 9k for it, not 6750 like i had thought, not sure where I got that from but anyway.

Last edited by Hobie1113; 09-19-2004 at 02:45 AM.
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Old 09-19-2004, 11:59 AM
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you'll be happy with OBD1
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