Also take into consideration of stroke, where a larger stroking engine uses longer heavier rods that are put into place. KA's use a pretty light weight 89mm piston, than lets say to the FJ24e which uses a 92mm piston. Both have 2.4 litre displacement, but rod length of the FJ24e was shorter increasing the displacement size to it's stroke (also allowing the crank assembly to overall weigh lighter and rev happier). Example: FJ24e revs to 7400RPM Redline, KA24de revs to 6200RPM Redline
This is more to the effect where rod weight actually effects piston speed and RPM more than the actual piston does or it's stroke.
Disturbed Harmonic frequency's are what prevent power from being achieved at higher RPM. HP is a byproduct of torque, which torque creates inertia. The more free flowing inertia there is, the more HP that is made or can be achieved. Hence using larger heavier components to the crank assembly is parisitic to free flowing inertia that makes power and a happy rev and redline.

 

Very good point Vin, I was attempting to keep it uber simple, good info though. And Dj, it looks like your math is correct, but the numbers you started from seem to be in inches, giving you the displacement in cubic inches. Get the metric numbers, and you should get a number close to 2400 cubic centimeters (1000cc = 1L; so 2400cc = 2.4L). Keep in mind auto manufacturers always round engine displacement numbers up when they list the numbers by liter (saying my accord has the 2.678L V6 is annoying), the KA really displaces 23xx cc's (which is what you'll get if you do the math or be lazy and look up the cc's for the KA).

 

I owe everyona an apology, my formula for calculating engine displacement was incorrent, my mistake was in the part of the formula concerning the bore of the cylinders. I said it was bore x stroke x # of cylinders, in fact that is really a surface area equation. The real equation is this : (pi)x(r^2)x(h)=v. r is the radius, which is 1/2 of the bore (the bore is the diameter of the cylinder if you forget), and h is the stroke, replacing r and h with bore and stroke and compensating for the number of cylinders will give you this: (pi)x(1/2 bore)x(stroke)x(# of cylinders)=Total displacement.

 

yea what ever u guys think keep it up but U CAN STROKE JUST ABOUT EVERY THING it dosnt matter. parts and balancing is among us we have all the right stuff to do this even order some custom cranks to our specs ... for example that nismo crank that revs to 8grand... we can make that tooo!
if some body could show a picture of the crank and the specs we could mass produce them too ...which is what ive been thinking for all the ka's out there who want power...
and for all you guys who were wondering about how to make a ka26det .. its pretty easy. parts like pistons and rods and cranks can be custom ordered to your specs.. but if u dont know what u want this is what i have plan's for now usdm parts/s14
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the block(ka26det)-dart sleeve it and bore it 30 over.. .003
the pistons - je or ross 30 over with the low comp dome ( pistons also can hold some cc's(haven't figured out the math just yet)
the rods- h beam eagle rods
the head- ferrea valves, dual springs, titanium retainers,comp cams, ported on the intake side the exhaust side is gona get a micro polish for more even flow.
--now thats just the motor it should hold well over 20.lbs of boost easy.

and for the turbo **** is
t3/t4 rebuilt all new bearings and what not-
equal length piping turbo manifold-
3 in piping out let pipe-
msd injectors- heehee <-- msd is C.A.R.B legal
720 fuel pump-
chiped ecu, piggy backs(apexi power FC)
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that just covers the basics
light weight fly wheel
3rd stge centerforce clutch
top speed fuel rail
hmm i think thats it for now BUT yea this list right here should get u close to 300-400 possibly on pump gas.
if not just add a lil of VP C-16 and should get near 400+
any who i dont plan on running every day on 400hp..
daily driving i want like 250hp reliable daily driver.
and when i want just turn up the booost!