ca18 vs. sr20 vs. rb20 vs. ka24-t
i have a ca and i love it. some one said something about ca torque. well they have a good bit for a tiny engine. enough to slip the *** end out from under u. as for rb's if your not going with a rb26 dont leave the rb's alone. the rb25 doesnt compare to the rb26 at all. ive seen a skyline here that came with an rb20, but they swapped an sr in. they guy said he liked it better. there is no going wrong with the sr20 tune the head, have enough fuel, slap turbo on youll be hella quick.
Originally posted by evil sil80
i have a ca and i love it. some one said something about ca torque. well they have a good bit for a tiny engine. enough to slip the *** end out from under u. as for rb's if your not going with a rb26 dont leave the rb's alone. the rb25 doesnt compare to the rb26 at all. ive seen a skyline here that came with an rb20, but they swapped an sr in. they guy said he liked it better. there is no going wrong with the sr20 tune the head, have enough fuel, slap turbo on youll be hella quick.
i have a ca and i love it. some one said something about ca torque. well they have a good bit for a tiny engine. enough to slip the *** end out from under u. as for rb's if your not going with a rb26 dont leave the rb's alone. the rb25 doesnt compare to the rb26 at all. ive seen a skyline here that came with an rb20, but they swapped an sr in. they guy said he liked it better. there is no going wrong with the sr20 tune the head, have enough fuel, slap turbo on youll be hella quick.
what made you choose the CA over the others? when you take off from a stop, is it steady and then a sudden jolt when the car starts making horsepower at higher rpms? what rpm can you take it to? what's the powerband? what mods are you running?
i thought the main diff. between the RB26 and 25 was the CR and deck height. head and valve train is suposed to be the same right?
true nissan men know that the RB is ??times stronger then the SR.
don't ge me wrong here i've driven neither but have done pleanty math. the SR is great. but an RB can make much more comfortable HP then SR's with less $$ and tuning. and the valve train is more suited to a life of revs then the SR too
i'd take either for free- so i'm not hatin.
playin the ACE roll and lookin at both sides of the coin
true nissan men know that the RB is ??times stronger then the SR.
don't ge me wrong here i've driven neither but have done pleanty math. the SR is great. but an RB can make much more comfortable HP then SR's with less $$ and tuning. and the valve train is more suited to a life of revs then the SR too
i'd take either for free- so i'm not hatin.
playin the ACE roll and lookin at both sides of the coin
Originally posted by spitz7985
what made you choose the CA over the others? when you take off from a stop, is it steady and then a sudden jolt when the car starts making horsepower at higher rpms? what rpm can you take it to? what's the powerband? what mods are you running?
what made you choose the CA over the others? when you take off from a stop, is it steady and then a sudden jolt when the car starts making horsepower at higher rpms? what rpm can you take it to? what's the powerband? what mods are you running?
I owned one myself so heres what i can tell ya. The CA has mad torque, more than an SR. You have to feather the gas at a launch to ensure that you start moving forward instead of spinning in place. sil80 doesnt have that problem tho... he has nitto555R's (**********). I dont remeber what the engine runs like with stock turbine. A very cheap and easy uprgrade is to put an SR turbin on so thats what most of us do. I hit 8 grand in my CA and 8500 in the SR but i'd never do it again. hes got a bunch of mods, i'll let him tell ya.actually, i have a link to his website...
evil sil80
i launch high at 6000rpms so im in the power band all the time. but normal driving there is lag before the power band thats because i have a 1.8mm head gasket. i shift at 7000rpms some times 8000. saturday night i raced a fd and a wrx with about the same amount of mods as me and we were all even the winner depended on the launch.
Originally posted by evil sil80
i launch high at 6000rpms so im in the power band all the time. but normal driving there is lag before the power band thats because i have a 1.8mm head gasket. i shift at 7000rpms some times 8000. saturday night i raced a fd and a wrx with about the same amount of mods as me and we were all even the winner depended on the launch.
i launch high at 6000rpms so im in the power band all the time. but normal driving there is lag before the power band thats because i have a 1.8mm head gasket. i shift at 7000rpms some times 8000. saturday night i raced a fd and a wrx with about the same amount of mods as me and we were all even the winner depended on the launch.
yes i think my ca is bad *** but they all have some common issues that just drive me insane.
the damn vacuum lines pop off between the head and the fire wall so after ive been racing it is kinda warm back there. ive had to replace just about all the water lines. they all went 1 after the other in like a weeks time. so if you change1 take the time to change them all!! last night i found out that im killing turbines cause if been using 10w30 oil with a turbo you want run at least 10w40. everyone else seemed to know thanxs for telling me DICKs
besides that it is easy to tune, work on and to drive.
the damn vacuum lines pop off between the head and the fire wall so after ive been racing it is kinda warm back there. ive had to replace just about all the water lines. they all went 1 after the other in like a weeks time. so if you change1 take the time to change them all!! last night i found out that im killing turbines cause if been using 10w30 oil with a turbo you want run at least 10w40. everyone else seemed to know thanxs for telling me DICKs
besides that it is easy to tune, work on and to drive.
I'm new to the club so heres what i've got...
I also have the CA18DET engine I choose it because the stock motor in my car was the n/a CA18DE (PULSAR) but the motor mounts lined up exactly all I needed to do was reprogram the ECU and VROOmm pssss I love it....and it is true that the CA can take more boost but the thing I dont like is the age of the motor but all motors can be rebuilt... i'm running 7psi right now with est. 200hp everything is stock at the moment until this winter and I'm gonna get front mount intercooler. and maybee 520cc injectors.
I also have the CA18DET engine I choose it because the stock motor in my car was the n/a CA18DE (PULSAR) but the motor mounts lined up exactly all I needed to do was reprogram the ECU and VROOmm pssss I love it....and it is true that the CA can take more boost but the thing I dont like is the age of the motor but all motors can be rebuilt... i'm running 7psi right now with est. 200hp everything is stock at the moment until this winter and I'm gonna get front mount intercooler. and maybee 520cc injectors.
i also have a CA18DET engine, which i chose when i could have had the SR swapped in for much less. contrary to popular belief this engine has MORE oem support in the u.s. then the SR. EVERYTHING from the CA18DE found in the 88-90 pulsar NX in america is identical excluding the pistons, the headgasket, and the O2 sensor. several companies like JE make pistons for the CA so thats no problem. the O2 sensor is the same as the CA18ET (S12 200sx) so again no problem. and greddy makes a 1.2-2mm headgasket that can be picked up at takakaira.com. the engine definately is a kick, mainly do to the intake manifold design (4 to 8 runner, with secondary ports that open under high air flow). My secondary port open at exactly 4000rpm and at .75 bar that i am running (til i get my 550cc injectors in) it kicks you back hard all the way to redline. not hard at all to find aftermarket parts either. i am putting up a reference and info page www.ca18det.net that will be fully as soon as i get some more time.
-CA18DET swap; electron blue; Norris Designs T28/T3 hybrid turbo; Norris Designs stage 1 chip; 3" downpipe; 3" test pipe; 3" apexi N1 exhaust; custom 3" intake (from a BMW); Z32 MAFS; K&N filter; RX-7 TII 550cc injectors; modified starion IC core with 2.25" piping; apexi dual chamber BOV; walbro 255 lr/hr fuel pump; denso iridium plugs; centerforce dual friction clutch; apexi S-AFC and AVC-R; HKS turbo timer type 2;
and with an RB i can make almost couble the HP with half the money u spent on mods.
besides the fact the RB clip costs almost as much
and with an RB i can make almost couble the HP with half the money u spent on mods.
besides the fact the RB clip costs almost as much


