95exlude

all in an s13 blacktop

GReddy Intake Camshaft. 264 Degrees/11.5 Lift.
GReddy Exhaust Camshaft. 264 Degrees/11.5 Lift.
JUN Chromoly Lightened Flywheel
Nismo 555cc Fuel Injectors (4)
GReddy Intake Manifold:
GReddy Aluminum Lightweight Pulley Set
Wiseco Pistons
XC Rings
Eagle Rods

plan on doing this very soon, yes im aware of the price
any changes/additions and why?

Sickboy

What is your target Hp?

With that current injector size, at 85% duty cycle should
max around 317hp.
@ 100% (not recommended for injectors) should max at 390hp.

Note: this is using the theory (street gas) of 5.7cc per minute per horsepower.

Questions for ya:

1. Are those "drop-in" cams or will you need sized shims and have to swap to solid lifters and new springs? I have the Tomei 260 "ponske" (drop-in) mild race cams.. due to the pain in the *** in measuring and ordering the shims. I remember HKS makes drop-ins that are 264 deg, but don't remember the lift.

2. What rod bolts and head bolts are you planning on using? ARP
makes SR rod bolts.. JUN has the head bolts for $240 (I bought these)

3. What's the dish on your pistons? Are you planning on staying with stock compression or dropping it at all? (i.e. 8.3:1, etc)
I believe the stock dish size is around 12mm...

4. What headgasket are you going to be using? Greddy and Apex'i are good, but IMO HKS has the best design.

5. While your engine is out are you geting rid of the squish areas and/or porting and polishing the head?

6. Also, what turbine set-up are planning on running?

7. Last and most importantly: What engine management are you planning to use to run this?

Sickboy

LI S13 Blacktop

add rocker arms, and double valve springs.

why are you going w/ your cam choice if you dont mind me asking? 264/264.

i dont know how much HP you are going for, but I'd resleave the block if i had it all apart, and was builing the whole motor.

: )

and are you changing the compression w/ the pistons?

95exlude

1. Yes they are drop in, i plan on getting new rockers and springs, but cant decide on what brand to go with

2. I had chosen the JUN bolts, but wasnt final on them

3. im not sure on the exact measurement of the dish but i will be at 8.4:1 compression

4. originally i was planning to get the GReddy headgasket, but was later advised against it

5. i am planning to get the head port and polished and the block resleeved as part of the rebuild, i was told i might want to get it bored just to get even sizes on possibly warn cylinders

6. i havnt even really thought a whole ton of turbo yet as i plan on making a kickass block first

7. havnt put a whole ton of research into management aside from a jwt chip, boost controller, and turbo timer

i have absolutely no target hp, nor do i want one, i just want power...nice power at that. im guessing myself with parts planned at around 450

spitz7985

i read some review that said a JUN flywheel can chew up the starter (although this was on the KA). i recomend looking into this before you make you final decsion.

also, it is usually recommended that you replace the clutch when you (1) get an SR and (2) when you replace the flywheel.

95exlude

thanks for the info on the flywheel, i will look into it

yeah i plan on getting a clutch, i have quite a few more mods intended, i just posted the mods that are directly related to the motor up there

Sickboy

FYI - If you're looking for 450whp.. (and not exceed 85% duty cycle) you'll need at least 750cc injectors to flow enough fuel

As far as the cylinder the most you can bore is 1mm over to 87mm(most common) without re-sleeving. Most vendors offer the the 86mm and 87mm.

as far as your compression at 8.4:1 --I would say go with the stock dish size, and when you port and polish, get rid if the squish areas.. it'll drop your compression slightly somewhere between 8.2:1 - 8.4:1

As for the turbo.. for 450hp you'll want at least a T04 sized turbine. If you're planning on boosting consecutively over 1.4 kg/cm2 - a non-ball-bearing set-up will last longer. Ball-bearings spool-up quicker (what I have currently- but I only plan to boost 1.4 at most on weekends) but have a shorter life span when constantly hitting high boost.. Example would be my friend Sean's Laurel.... 1.7 and the next thing you know a cloud of smoke and thwoomp! The exhaust wheel flew out the tail-pipe.
He knew it was going to happen, that was his 3rd T3 in the last two years. Of course when you drive like this.. things happen..

Good luck..S-

95exlude

well i had an extensive talk with the owner of afternight tuning...man does that guy know his stuff. im really excited about this. anyways we talked about trying to keep the car streetable and came up with an extensive list of parts. looks like im going to be pushing about 500hp, works for me . anyways, if anybody is looking at doing the sr swap, check out http://www.afterdark-tuning.com/ . i have nothing but good things to say about this guy. friendliest person i have met, not to mention his prices are great. anyways, here is what i have more or less decided on for the motor:

head port and polished
cylinders bored to 87mm
knife edge and balance the stock crank
lighten and balance the stock flywheel
wiseco 87mm 8.4:1 compression pistons
xc rings
eagle rods
256 degree greddy intake and exhaust camshafts
going to go JUN for everything in the head (i.e. valves, valve springs, rocker arms, rocker arm stoppers)
blitz 740cc injectors
GReddy intake manifold
GReddy 1.2mm metal head gasket
dual Walbro 225 lt/hr fuel pumps

thats all that comes to mind right now, still hafta decide on ignition, anyways, im happy with wuts up there

Sickboy

cool...
sounds about right... except for the headgasket.
If you already have lower compression pistons, then
(stock height) 1.2mm ...of course it may have been a mis-type.

Any ideas for the turbo yet?


-S

95exlude

fixed it :b

as for the turbo, im thikin a GT3037

SagaS14

ahh talking to good ole dauntless eh.. i wish i lived even remotely close to me so he could do my swap.. oh well

-j

Daunttless

I have two t's in my name. : )

Also, you don't have to be remotely close for me to do the swap, I have people coming from all over the nation. A lot of people have found its cheaper to come to me, than to have someone local do it. : ) If you want to do the swap yourself, you could always just have me a ship an engine out your way. : )

Daunttless

Hehe, I see that you guys don't support HTML in your signatures... : )

Sickboy

GT3037 Sounds about right for your application--
that and the GT2835R has been one of the most common
set-ups in Japan for the last couple years (..not including, the T67 and T51R for 600+ set-ups)

If you go with the HKS (garret/ballistics) GT3037, IMO -fork out the extra dough for the "Full Special Turbine Kit"....It comes with EVERYTHING!!! Down to every little tie-wrap, hose, etc..

I bought the HKS2835 Full Kit:
Top-mount re-inforced stainless exhaust manifold
HKS GT Racing Wastegate with 1.2 spring
HKS air intake, all of the oil lines
Downpipe with wastegate exhaust pipe
Piping to the IC
etc, etc..

HKS doesn't mess around; their kits are COMPLETE.
Yes, it is a lot of money... but when you start adding it up its worth it.
I (got lucky) and picked mine up when the Yen rate jumped up to 131 to the dollar. ($3000)




Unfortunately, U.S. distributors are not taking the yen rate into acount for the prices and just charging 100 for 1. "Lucrative" I might say...