power mirror/window swap??
11-25-2009, 03:18 AM
#2
yes you can but you must consult the FSM and you have to get the wire harness and or make it all from scratch.
you will have to deal with reversing polarity to raise and lower the window. I watched a guy do it a long time ago.
best bet look for a power window s-chassis part out and get everything.
you will have to deal with reversing polarity to raise and lower the window. I watched a guy do it a long time ago.
best bet look for a power window s-chassis part out and get everything.
11-26-2009, 08:58 AM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: SoCal
Posts: 23
i forgot to mention i drive a '90 base model coupe and have an '89 xe coupe w/power windows, p-sunroof, p-mirrors that was salvaged. i was checking out the wiring under the console and it looked like the mirrors were in the harness not a separate harness of its own and if thats the case do i need to remove the entire harness from the car?
11-27-2009, 05:00 PM
#6
Contributing Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Cokeburg, PA
Posts: 593
If you want a actual walkthrough let me know. I just did it on mine...all factory...adapted the harnesses into the base chasiss harness. You only need to solder two wires. It's not for the feint of heart to do it my way...I determinaled the connectors and relays and did everything factory correct way.
Basically...you can do it with the car together...take out the instument cluster and the glovebox and you've got all the access you need.
Basically...you can do it with the car together...take out the instument cluster and the glovebox and you've got all the access you need.
Last edited by Preston; 11-27-2009 at 05:38 PM.
11-27-2009, 05:06 PM
#7
Contributing Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Cokeburg, PA
Posts: 593
Im bored I'll just tell you how to do it lol. Note wire colors may be different as I have a 93 took the harness out of a 94 vert but the theory is the same....
HOW TO ADD POWER WINDOWS AND LOCKS TO A BASE MODEL S13
This walkthrough assumes you have already gathered and installed parts...window motors and regulators, window switches, door lock acutators, door lock timer, window amplifier, power door harnesses.
If the donor car is indeed salvage...it's easiest. Take the dash out. Unwrap the body harness up under the dash...fusebox to passenger a pillar. Take out the wires for the blue and white door harness connectors on both sides. There are several splices...cut the spliced wires...except the white/red that goes to the circuit breaker, and the white/black that goes to the ignition relay, including those two parts...cut the other wires off those parts and remove the terminals. Other than that cut the splices out, you should have a complete wire set running from door harness to door harness, blue to blue and white to white connectors. Take the door/window (same breaker) circuit breaker off the back of the fuse block...it's the third one down from top..ignition relay, seat beat circuit breaker, door/window. While you're back there...take the ignition relay out as well...the power window power runs off that relay it's different than a base model...take both the breaker and the relay along with the socket for each...cut the wires to get the sockets out and undo the clip holding them in.
HOW TO ADD POWER WINDOWS AND LOCKS TO A BASE MODEL S13
This walkthrough assumes you have already gathered and installed parts...window motors and regulators, window switches, door lock acutators, door lock timer, window amplifier, power door harnesses.
If the donor car is indeed salvage...it's easiest. Take the dash out. Unwrap the body harness up under the dash...fusebox to passenger a pillar. Take out the wires for the blue and white door harness connectors on both sides. There are several splices...cut the spliced wires...except the white/red that goes to the circuit breaker, and the white/black that goes to the ignition relay, including those two parts...cut the other wires off those parts and remove the terminals. Other than that cut the splices out, you should have a complete wire set running from door harness to door harness, blue to blue and white to white connectors. Take the door/window (same breaker) circuit breaker off the back of the fuse block...it's the third one down from top..ignition relay, seat beat circuit breaker, door/window. While you're back there...take the ignition relay out as well...the power window power runs off that relay it's different than a base model...take both the breaker and the relay along with the socket for each...cut the wires to get the sockets out and undo the clip holding them in.
Last edited by Preston; 11-27-2009 at 05:42 PM.
11-27-2009, 05:14 PM
#8
Contributing Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Cokeburg, PA
Posts: 593
Take the door panels off and undo the complete door harness and pull both of them out, driver and passenger side. If you want you can put them in the car now. Clip them in where the clips go it's easy to do you will see where the clips go as you run it. Make note of how it's clipped into the donor car if you think you won't be able to figure it out.
Back to the body harness...like stated you should have a complete door to door set of two connectors, white and blue (note cut the speaker wires where they go down towards the radio in the middle of the harness when you're removing it from the donor car I forgot to mention that earlier). Now remove the speaker terminals you cut from the connectors, use FSM for colors. Electrical tape the entire harness together so you don't have a mess of bare wires running around everywhere.
Back to the body harness...like stated you should have a complete door to door set of two connectors, white and blue (note cut the speaker wires where they go down towards the radio in the middle of the harness when you're removing it from the donor car I forgot to mention that earlier). Now remove the speaker terminals you cut from the connectors, use FSM for colors. Electrical tape the entire harness together so you don't have a mess of bare wires running around everywhere.
Last edited by Preston; 11-27-2009 at 05:17 PM.
11-27-2009, 05:26 PM
#9
Contributing Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Cokeburg, PA
Posts: 593
Remove the instrument cluster and glove box out of the receiving car, also remove the driver and passenger kick panels, and remove the passenger side vent and unbolt the 10mm bolt holding that vent's duct to the dash bar so you can move it around and get your hands up around the dash bar...it's a ***** but it's not bad if you're motivated 
Starting on the driver's side behind where the instrument panel was, fish the taped up harness through to the passenger side. If you're really really **** as I am...undo the zip-ties and zip-tie the harness in. It should end up where the white connector on the car already is. Now remove the speaker wires from the original car's harness. Take the back cover of the connector off, and use a pick through the front of the connector to release the lock tab for the terminal. BE CAREFUL, don't f up the terminal in the process. Do one wire at a time, take it out and put it in the exact same spot on your new power harness' white connector. Do the same thing for the driver's side white connector as well. When you are finished, you should have an empty connector on each side of the car. (Note an alternate way to do this is to reverse the process...take the wires out of the power harness and put them into the base harness. Go back to the passenger side and remove the ecu. Install the door lock timer where it goes, it sits backwards in the crevice behind the ecu...figure it out it's easy. Plug it in. Put the ecu back in.
Starting on the driver's side behind where the instrument panel was, fish the taped up harness through to the passenger side. If you're really really **** as I am...undo the zip-ties and zip-tie the harness in. It should end up where the white connector on the car already is. Now remove the speaker wires from the original car's harness. Take the back cover of the connector off, and use a pick through the front of the connector to release the lock tab for the terminal. BE CAREFUL, don't f up the terminal in the process. Do one wire at a time, take it out and put it in the exact same spot on your new power harness' white connector. Do the same thing for the driver's side white connector as well. When you are finished, you should have an empty connector on each side of the car. (Note an alternate way to do this is to reverse the process...take the wires out of the power harness and put them into the base harness. Go back to the passenger side and remove the ecu. Install the door lock timer where it goes, it sits backwards in the crevice behind the ecu...figure it out it's easy. Plug it in. Put the ecu back in.
11-27-2009, 05:37 PM
#10
Contributing Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Cokeburg, PA
Posts: 593
Now you have added the power harness to your base model s13. But wait...i have a relay socket and circuit breaker dangling down on the driver's side! Remove the fuse block..two 10mm bolts. Pull it out as far as possible to have room to work. It helps to cut the three zipties on the back holding the wires to the block. You will see you have an empty slot where the power circuit breaker should be. Click in the socket and breaker into that spot. The seat belt breaker is directly above it. That is the one wire you need to solder. Cut the blue/red wire on the back of the circuit breaker and solder in the blue/red wire of the power circuit breaker.
One last step, remove the original ignition relay from the fuse block by depressing the clip. Remove the cover on the back of the socket to access the terminals. Same as before, stick a pick in the front to depress the clip holding the terminals in. Do one at a time, sticking them into the same places on the power ignition relay. You should have one last wire just hanging out, white/green. Cut and solder that into the white/green on the back of the fuse block. Insert the relay and socket into the fuseblock. Put everything back together and try the door locks. They should work without the key on. Turn the key on. Try the windows, they should work. If all is well you are done!
PS: To add power mirrors you need to do a little more work, you need to run the control wires from the mirror switch to the white connector. If anybody wants to do this as well let me know I'll add that into this writeup.
PSS: If you have questions feel free to ask, I said it wasn't for the feint of heart but if you are good with wiring it's pretty easy.
One last step, remove the original ignition relay from the fuse block by depressing the clip. Remove the cover on the back of the socket to access the terminals. Same as before, stick a pick in the front to depress the clip holding the terminals in. Do one at a time, sticking them into the same places on the power ignition relay. You should have one last wire just hanging out, white/green. Cut and solder that into the white/green on the back of the fuse block. Insert the relay and socket into the fuseblock. Put everything back together and try the door locks. They should work without the key on. Turn the key on. Try the windows, they should work. If all is well you are done!
PS: To add power mirrors you need to do a little more work, you need to run the control wires from the mirror switch to the white connector. If anybody wants to do this as well let me know I'll add that into this writeup.
PSS: If you have questions feel free to ask, I said it wasn't for the feint of heart but if you are good with wiring it's pretty easy.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jsp86
Private For Sale / Wanted
7
02-10-2007 04:28 PM
Xren17
For Sale - Wanting To Buy (WTB) Or Trade (WTT)
0
05-16-2005 02:59 PM
