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S14: OBX and DC Header what size O2 bungs?

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Old 05-07-2008, 05:00 PM
  #16  
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There are definitely differences in front and rear O2's in the lineup. I think too many just agree with someone to seem like they modify their rides too.

When I bought my OBX Header I didn't read many horror stories, when I had an issue with fit all I got in reply was horror stories.
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Old 05-12-2008, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by alkemyst
There are definitely differences in front and rear O2's in the lineup. I think too many just agree with someone to seem like they modify their rides too.

When I bought my OBX Header I didn't read many horror stories, when I had an issue with fit all I got in reply was horror stories.


Meeh thats why I don't cheap out on headers. DC sport header didn't have any of those problems for me.
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Old 05-12-2008, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by BigVinnie
Meeh thats why I don't cheap out on headers. DC sport header didn't have any of those problems for me.
it's not really cheaping out...DC Sports is currently not available while they realign the company with Pilot, AEM, et all.

DC Sports has reports of fitiment issues as well. It's also not made with as good materials either.
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Old 05-12-2008, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by alkemyst
DC Sports has reports of fitiment issues as well. It's also not made with as good materials either.

Don't know where you got that info from...
I've had my header on since 2005 and the ceramic powder coat is still sticking strong. EGR fitment was fine, and I have the exempt sticker for smog....
Also it's the only company to have a proven HP figure for there header.

No other header company to date offers a dyno for there product.
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Old 05-12-2008, 01:05 PM
  #20  
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oh well. I think I'll just plug it off till inspection time and deal with it then. Maybe it will pass anyway.
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Old 05-12-2008, 02:35 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by BigVinnie
Don't know where you got that info from...
I've had my header on since 2005 and the ceramic powder coat is still sticking strong. EGR fitment was fine, and I have the exempt sticker for smog....
Also it's the only company to have a proven HP figure for there header.

No other header company to date offers a dyno for there product.
Mild Steel > stainless. saying how old a header is means nothing...it's mileage and environment.

Try not to be a fanboi, DC makes a great header, but there have been issues with their products too.

Regardless if you needed a header today, unless you can hunt down someone with a DC in stock, it's not happening.
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Old 05-13-2008, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by alkemyst
Mild Steel > stainless. saying how old a header is means nothing...it's mileage and environment.

Try not to be a fanboi, DC makes a great header, but there have been issues with their products too.

Regardless if you needed a header today, unless you can hunt down someone with a DC in stock, it's not happening.

Meeh not a fanboi at all...
It is actually a mild steel because you wouldn't be able to get the mandrel bending out of any other steel with a higher carbon count.... If anything it's grade steel is no less than what pacesetter used to make there headers with. As DC sports also recommends "do not use NOS feed" with the header as it will cause cracking to the welds do to higher temperature range. The ceramic coating actually helps the header from cracking being how mild the steel is, but in any case I would rather have (mild steel>stainless steel) do to the fact that stainless steel does not bond well to welding. In any case stainless steel cracks just as often if not more due to major expansion at higher heat ranges....

History repeats itself and I have seen many complaints before with OBX, HOTSHOT, and Greddy when stainless steel headers were produced for the KA and the welds would crack. Infact that was the number one complaint with the greddy headers which eventually left that header to be discontinued, to date only OBX makes a stainless steel header that still cracks at the weld joints.

Last edited by BigVinnie; 05-13-2008 at 06:10 PM.
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Old 05-13-2008, 06:50 PM
  #23  
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i'm no expert but couldn't the cracked welds also be due to the excessive engine movement. i've had a obx header for about 3 years w/o any broken welds, not yet anyways. while there was a small problem getting the o2 sensor back on it wasn't anything i couldn't take care of. supposedly there were fitment issues with their headers that were said to have been rectified.

also the main reason i bought the obx was because it was cheap. at the time no one made a smog compliant header so i went with what was cheap. the way i see it is that while there is some r&d along with quality of work and materials, you mainly pay for the name brand.
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Old 05-13-2008, 07:21 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by BigVinnie
Meeh not a fanboi at all...
It is actually a mild steel because you wouldn't be able to get the mandrel bending out of any other steel with a higher carbon count.... If anything it's grade steel is no less than what pacesetter used to make there headers with. As DC sports also recommends "do not use NOS feed" with the header as it will cause cracking to the welds do to higher temperature range. The ceramic coating actually helps the header from cracking being how mild the steel is, but in any case I would rather have (mild steel>stainless steel) do to the fact that stainless steel does not bond well to welding. In any case stainless steel cracks just as often if not more due to major expansion at higher heat ranges....

History repeats itself and I have seen many complaints before with OBX, HOTSHOT, and Greddy when stainless steel headers were produced for the KA and the welds would crack. Infact that was the number one complaint with the greddy headers which eventually left that header to be discontinued, to date only OBX makes a stainless steel header that still cracks at the weld joints.
you seem to spin anything you choose into the right answer even when you are wrong throwing out all sorts of pseudo-science.

your stuff in the cam threads was painful.
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Old 05-13-2008, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by jramosthe1st!
also the main reason i bought the obx was because it was cheap. at the time no one made a smog compliant header so i went with what was cheap.
I didn't need cheap, I wanted a header, if I chose DC I'd be waiting months for them to get their stuff together during the realignment.

It's not like the OBX header is $50 and the DC is $500, IMHO there is not that much difference in price.
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Old 05-14-2008, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by alkemyst
you seem to spin anything you choose into the right answer even when you are wrong throwing out all sorts of pseudo-science.

your stuff in the cam threads was painful.

OUCH that was off topic....
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Old 05-14-2008, 11:08 PM
  #27  
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umm i just used an o2 plug from a sr20 tubo outlet to plug the hole in my ebay headers after I took out my EGR(little black box) if that helps anyone out...
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Old 05-14-2008, 11:11 PM
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Good input crazydrifter....

Thread closed before blasphemous bullSh#t spews...
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