NA Motor Discussions regarding N/A KA24E, KA24DE, and SR20DE

How to set cam timing?

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Old 07-11-2007, 09:36 AM
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How to set cam timing?

so, I just swapped in a new camshaft to replace this:



much better now, the valves line up:



and a note for anyone, getting the cam gear back on without removing the tensioner is a huge pain.

so I've got the motor set at tdc. as you can see below, the notch is straight up, so the cam is set for tdc.



I put the chain back on the gear to the same tooth I took it off on (...hopefully, I'm clumsy) and was wondering exactly what to do to time it correctly, as I've never done that before and can't find the procedure detailed anywhere.
The shiny link is marked (well, where it was, I cranked it around once so it's now pretty far down), and the little timing dot I know it's supposed to line up with after god knows how many revolutions. The distributor is exactly at the firing point for cyl 1.

So basically, what do I need to do next? the fsm says torque all the bolts and nothing else. Will it start without any further adjustment? and if so will it run alright? I just need the steps between now and turning the key, because I really can't find anything on it and I'd rather not be a tooth off and bend some valves or have bad timing...

Thanks!
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Old 07-11-2007, 10:07 AM
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as long as the marks are lined up and the #1 cylinder is a tdc the car will start. next you'll need a timing light to make the needed adjustments.
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Old 07-13-2007, 07:21 AM
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torqued everything (I had my roommate hold the crank from moving while i went at the cam bolt, and he got bruised ). closed everything up and she starts. a little whining/light scraping at the beginning, but it was fading so I assume it's just the new parts being broken in as the oil flows.
The stationary timing marker seems to have broken off the block probably years ago and was never noticed - looks like I'll have to time it by ear.
After she started I held it at about 2k for a while, then tested up to 5500 and she got up there fine. The idle, however, was fine at the beginning but was hanging out 1500-2000 after going for a ride. Not sure what causes this, we'll see if it goes away.

Bad things that happen when your car sits too long:
Tranny's sticking a bit and won't shift to third (sigh, autotragic) but the car sat for a while and probably just needs the fluid flushed as there was no such issue before she died and the tranny hasn't been touched.
Brake rotors are a little rusty, thatll wear off by itself though after a few miles.

Good news is, I drove a couple blocks, aside from being unexpectedly stuck in 2nd gear and sloppy brakes, it felt good to be back on the road in a real car.
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Old 07-13-2007, 08:07 AM
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it's probably idling high because timing by ear doesn't work too well.
let it idle to normal operating temp and check the timing (with a timing light), adjust it properly if needed

Last edited by jramosthe1st!; 07-13-2007 at 04:02 PM.
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Old 07-13-2007, 06:29 PM
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alright, timing looks good.
now I'm a bit worried about what's happening with the trans. i went down to the highway today so I could test out over 35mph (my town is full of cops on the side roads)...i can get her to shift, but only when she gets to 4000+rpm, sometimes up close to redline, in the previous. gets into 2nd a bit lower, but to get 3rd or 4th it shifts way too late...this is just normal highway driving, should shift around 3000-3500. Does the tps control that at all? May have been damaged as I had it off for a few days. I know the old style automatics better where it was all valves (fluids full)...I don't know what's electrically controlled on these.
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