As one of the easiest NA starter mods, I have a question.

Is it possible to remove the fan and still have adequate cooling from the stock thermofan? There's a fan upgrade in the future, but for now I am looking to goof off with the "free" mods and see how they change the behavior.

 

You need to order a thermostatic switch. That can work for both the AC, and radiator relays. FAL sells a thermostatic that will work for all the needs you need at $80.

You want to look into Flex-A-Lite 31165 - Flex-a-Lite Variable Speed Control.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...10002_84110_-1

 

Cool.

How's the install? Are the instructions good enough for someone with limited wiring experience? Was never any good at it. don't know why...

 

Install goes pretty easy. Although I am using FAL fans instead.
Instructions are direct.
Add thermostat to radiator core.
Then you want to open up your relay box that has the ignition switch fuse wire and run inline to the ignition switch fuse and run to the thermostatic switch.
Run a wire to the positive connection and one to the negative leads of the battery with a fuse running inline on the positive connection.
I don't know how long that stock fan will last with that switch, but you can give it a try.

 

I'm guessing FAL Dual 12s, but which one? 210, 210R, 220, 230, or 240?

 

Detailed info.
http://www.club240.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38551

 

Just one more quick question. (got the switch and a fan-set from a Altima)

What is the best source for #9? I'd usually run to something like the coil +, but with the integrated cap and coil, I don't want to play with that part of the harness, you know?

 

This is one of the most common questions that I am asked all the time. You are looking for the ignition signal. The coil would be a bad choice as it can delay the coil to fire or not start the car at all. You would want to run through the relay box on the passenger side of the car. It is closest to the radiator, and right next to the battery. On the box there is a fuse labeled ignition, or ignition switch this is the 30AMP source that you need to tap into. Make sure to run an inline fuse off of the 30AMP fuse as well, if not you could possibly overload the circuit if you ever chose to run other devices off of it.

 

I removed the mechanical fan, and now I am just using the stock aux fan. It comes on when the coolant reaches temp and shuts off normally, comes on with a/c too. I haven't had any problems, even in the dead of summer in Texas. I guess it depends on your system and how good or bad it is. Of course it wouldnt' hurt to get a better switch to control it.

Jason

 

True.
But once you want to fine tune the engine and drop coolant temps a bit more than what stock has to offer it's worth it to use a thermostatic switch.
For myself the reasoning behind adding the switch was that I use an SAFC and I have timing advanced way above the stock settings. Mine is at 31BTDC. So because the EGT is typically higher I need the coolant temp to be slightly lower than stock.

 

Hey Big Vinnie you said once that advancing ignition beyond 20 was not worthy and now I see you have yours at 31. What's the deal??
Will stock wiring fan still come on with AC and also on temp with AC off?
If so can I run Altima's fans on stock wiring and still keep having good temp control?

 

You can advance timing as long as you use a piggy back such as an SAFC 2 or NEO. Advancing the base timing at the distributor without making changes to the fuel maps only can further damage your engine. Reason being when you advance timing without fuel correction it raises the EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature). Increasing EGT only causes damage to the engine with minimal gains or none. When you advance timing it is important to add fuel and adjust with a wide band O2. As exhaust gas temperature increases to advanced timing without fuel correction the AFR's move way beyond stoich 14.7:1 after 14.7:1 the engine becomes far to lean and far to hot to run under normal operating conditions.

You can use the stock A/C switch to run your fans if you chose to . The problem is if you still have your A/C compressor connected you are using your air conditioner as well, which then it wouldn't be a performance enhancement, you would only be consuming more HP.

 

Thank you Big Vinnie and btw some more questions.
I was thinking that just for removing my clutch fan i would gain some faster response from the engine not actually any HP.
Altima's electrical fans are a bolts on and cheaper than flex-a-lite.

Between a SAFC and on of those Calum real time daughter boards what do you think is worthy in therms on gains?

 

If you are NA an SAFC is fine. Altima fans are cheaper and also have a higher CFM than the flex a lites.

I bought a flex a lite because I wanted my fans in blue.