<3 French Fries-buildthread-Waffle Fries and special man sauce!
#121
Update-ish
Girly finished the front end + drained my oil. Deffinatly sig material. <3 240s without fronts!
Took care of the little bits of the interior.
Im keeping the carpet from right behind the first seat track bolts foreward, too much wiring under there!
im thinking about doing this to the center console... Prolly with just end up taking it out.( I know im ricey)
Is this the ABS system?(Unsure if I have ABS, but my nonabs Kouki does not have this part.
WTF is this??
Am I able to cut the wires to the speakers and ****, tape them and call it good with out ****ing anything electrical up with the car? (I'm a total wiring noob, but Im attempting to learn)
#122
nice man
that could be the abs, is there any brake lines coming out of it?
also for the second pic with the box. as a rule of thumb with anycar with airbags anything with the color yellow is SRS related (Suplimental Restraint System or airbags lol)
i would take out the airbags b4 i would start messing with the airbag system cause even if it dosnt have any power static electricity can ignite them its very unlikely but i wouldnt take the chance
that could be the abs, is there any brake lines coming out of it?
also for the second pic with the box. as a rule of thumb with anycar with airbags anything with the color yellow is SRS related (Suplimental Restraint System or airbags lol)
i would take out the airbags b4 i would start messing with the airbag system cause even if it dosnt have any power static electricity can ignite them its very unlikely but i wouldnt take the chance
#123
A line leads to the brake master cylinder, then the other line runs to the passenger side into the actual motor. Thanks Batto I assumed it was airbag ****. Will deactivate that **** ahah air bag to the face is a no no
#125
You COULD cut the wires to the speakers and tape them up, in theory it will be fine. But make sure they are completely covered. If they are still connected to a power source current will still be flowing through them so if some one touched them........ yeah. I would just either take them out completely (might as well re-do the wiring harness if you do) or just leave them be (much simpler, and good if you are lazy... like me).
#126
**** dont really want to do wiring harness. Probably will end up doing just that though.
Today I finished taking off all the body panels. I got this grease lightning **** which is probably the best cleaner in the world to clean out nastys all over the interior and trunk blah blah. (Fresh and clean, clean)
Also took out rear struts, started on the fronts but they are so ****ing tight(RUSTED). Anyone know a quicker way to do this than tossing a wrench on the bolts and beating the **** out of the wrench with a rubber mallet? kthx.
Pics of the stripped zenki.
I pick up the motor in 2 weeks and most of the suspension will be shipping soon. YAY!
Today I finished taking off all the body panels. I got this grease lightning **** which is probably the best cleaner in the world to clean out nastys all over the interior and trunk blah blah. (Fresh and clean, clean)
Also took out rear struts, started on the fronts but they are so ****ing tight(RUSTED). Anyone know a quicker way to do this than tossing a wrench on the bolts and beating the **** out of the wrench with a rubber mallet? kthx.
Pics of the stripped zenki.
I pick up the motor in 2 weeks and most of the suspension will be shipping soon. YAY!
#127
Get some wd-40 (at least. something that specifically helps break down rust is what you want) spray it on the bolts/threads (if you can get to them). Then get a pipe (should be pretty long but not too long... make sure it is longer than the handle of the wratchet or wrench) put it on the handle of the wratchet or wrench and start turning. Make sure you steadily hold the head of the tool to the bolt, if not your chances of breaking it inside of the hole increases. It should work after that. If not.....you have some problems and need to take it to a machine shop.
If I see bolts with rust on them I dont even try to take them out. I immediately get something to help weaken the seized bolt (i.e. wd-40) and let it penetrate for a while then use the pipe so I have more leverage. Be careful not to break the bolt off though, very important, you want to keep one of your hands on the head of the tool you are using so it doesnt move at an angle, you want it to be as level with the hole as possible.
If I see bolts with rust on them I dont even try to take them out. I immediately get something to help weaken the seized bolt (i.e. wd-40) and let it penetrate for a while then use the pipe so I have more leverage. Be careful not to break the bolt off though, very important, you want to keep one of your hands on the head of the tool you are using so it doesnt move at an angle, you want it to be as level with the hole as possible.
#128
for siezed bolts there are few products that will really do the job. I've had really good luck with pb blaster vs. wd40, but there are some commercial grade products that you can buy that work even better.
#132
cool man, making some lil progress I see.
You should completely remove the pointless **** from your wiring harness
i.e. anything audio related, Air Con related, etc.
I'm gonna keep an eye on this thread.
Hope it turns out nice.
You should completely remove the pointless **** from your wiring harness
i.e. anything audio related, Air Con related, etc.
I'm gonna keep an eye on this thread.
Hope it turns out nice.
#133
I was actually excited to have a wingless trunk, don't worry I'll hit something soon enough to need a trunk
Withen the next week or two I'll be heading up and getting some ****ing tools. This small set of **** I have works... Thought about the aircompressor and impact but dunno. ( the impact gun pictured was back at a post self-help auto garage. )