PROJECTRB240SX

Yes, you must get a coil from cylinder 1 or 2, the 3-8 cyl coils are toatally different. The boots come right off and pop back on. and they are interchangeable.
I have a more complete list that i just need to tiddy up that i'll email to some one to post. Its in excel right now.

E Spin

i was beginning to decide on not to do the rbswap, cause i was reading some posts on teh Nico forum and they make it seem so complicated.

Then i checked back to this thread and read that your post projectrb240sx, and i read you have a COMPLETE LIST... i can't wait till it's done ^_^

-HyJynX-

PRB has been great for the RB communitySeriously

E Spin

i agree with you there hyjynx....

eh prb240sx... do you have any pictures of your rb powered 240?

PROJECTRB240SX

NOT YET..... ITS STILL IN THE ROUGH STAGES.

RIGHT NOW A CUSTOM FAN SHORUD IS BEING BUILT, THE INTERIOR IS BEING PROFESSIONALLY GUTTED, I STILL HAVE TO PULL THE ENGINE AND CLEAN IT AND THE ENGINE BAY UP, INSTALL MY TOPHAT/NIGHT7 MOUNTS, MOUNT MY DIGITAL GAUGES, GET MY SUSPENSION MOUNTED, AND MANY MANY OTHER THINGS. I'LL TRY TO SNAP SOME PICS AT FUELED PERFORMANCE WHEN I'M THERE TODAY BUT I'LL BE PRETTY BUSY.

I HAVE HUNDREDS OF PICTURES OF THE SWAP PROCESS, MY CAR, FMIC INSTALL (PRETTY GHETTO.... RIGHT NOW ANYWAY), AND NUMEROUS OTHER PICS.

PROJECTRB240SX

THANKS FOR ALL THE KIND WORDS BTW..... I'M JUST TRYING TO HELP THIS SWAP OUT BECAUSE THE MORE PEOPLE WE GET ON BOARD THE MORE PRODUCTS AND SUPPORT WE WILL RECEIVE.

neoamd

What Motor Should I swap in my car?

Well this should be based upon your goal. The SR20 is a great motor with good potential but is lacking the torque I would love to have out of the RB25. Also the RB25 responds well to mods, as it is a larger turbo motor.

The RB25 doesn’t increase the weight of the car much and the stock S13/14 suspension can handle with ease. I think the weight increase is about 200lbs but you will gain about 40hp over the SR20. The end result or answer would be based upon what you are looking for in a car, what you would desire, and the size of your pocket book. You pick, you decide. Search the forums if you have questions.

RB25 Swap Info

[1989-1994 S13 240SX Install] http://s92978298.onlinehome.us/s13install.htm

[S13/14 Sport Compact Install] http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/0309scc_hybrid/

[How to wire the RB25 in your S13] http://www.nissaninfiniticlub.com/fo...threadid=18442

[How to wire the RB25 in your S14] http://s92978298.onlinehome.us/RB/gtr_plugs.pdf

Source: www.rb25det.org

RB25 Recommended Modifications Upon Installation

FMIC (Front Mount InterCooler)
This cools the compressed air coming from the turbo. Lower temps means dense air, which mean more boost and more power.
Custom piping and fitting of the intercooler may be required.
Price varies from 500-1200$, depending on quality of material used.

Upgraded Fuel Pump
Delivers more fuel more efficiently and is reliable.
Walbro 255lph should work well.
Proven to take about 500hp and costs 105$.

Boost Controller
EBC (Electronic Boost Controller)
I would recommend an EBC as boost can be changed easily inside the cab and other adjustments can be made (IE Peak, hold, gain)

Some good EBCs are Greddy Profec II, Greddy Profec Spec B, Apex’i AVR-R, and Blitz SBC-id (SBC = Solenoid Boost Controller).

MBC (Manual Boost Controller)
This is great for the low budget person. Its works well but you have to pop the hood in most cases to change the boost and trust me, it gets hot under the hood and makes the MBC a little toaster

The Hallman MBC series are excellent for the low budget person. (http://www.hallmanboostcontroller.com/) also the Joe P MBC’s are great (http://www.joepmbc.com/).

Full Turbo back Exhaust
Allows the turbo to expel the exhaust gases quickly without much backpressure. Also keeps heat down inside the engine bay.
You have a lot of options here. You can go to your exhaust shop and have them custom fabricate an exhaust for you or you can purchase premade downpipes, test pipes, and catback exhausts from different vendors. (www.night7racing.com)

Upgraded Radiator with Dual Fans
Upgrade the radiator to make sure your RB25 stays cool and healthy.
The stock R33 radiator can be used I believe but it 3 inches taller than the stock s13/14 ones so some custom work would have to be done.

There is also a clearance issue since the RB25 is longer than the KA so thin fans must be used. Here is a link to some great fans with temp controls. (http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html...-electric.html) Upgraded Radiators can be found at almost any aftermarket parts vendor (http://shop.store.yahoo.com/phase2motorsports/).

Upgraded Clutch
Handle the power and abuse you will probably put your cart through.

The RB25 uses the same clutch as the non-turbo Z32 300ZX and they can be found at decent prices (www.optauto.com)

LSD (Limited Slip Differential)[/u]
Put your newfound power to the ground and leave 2 nice black lines instead of one sideways one.

You can use the LSD from a 300ZX, VLSD (from the 240SX SE), or upgrade to an aftermarket unit. That’s up to you.

Fuel Management
Piggyback
These units hook up to your existing ECU and modify the signals received/sent. These are great for the person on a budget. Either of these are needed to allow you to richen up the fuel mixture under higher boost setting (IE More than stock! Don’t be stupid!

Some great units would be the Apex’i AFC/AFC II or the Greddy E-manage I believe will work also.

Standalone
This until replaces the Stock ECU and allows you to change everything with one unit. Either of these are needed to allow you to richen up the fuel mixture under higher boost setting (IE More than stock! Don’t be stupid!)

I would recommend the Apex’i from personal experience. Standalones are the way to go if you have a tuner near buy or close to your state. It’s worth the extra money for the standalone! A standalone will always be able to be tuned better for your car so that way you will have the most power possible without having any lean spots etc.

FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator)
Change the fuel pressure to allow more fuel to be pushed through your stock injectors or aftermarket injectors more reliably.
Many units available for the RB25. Check out Phase 2 Motor sports. (http://shop.store.yahoo.com/phase2motorsports/).

Injectors (Optional)
The stock RB25 injectors are 370cc injectors. They are side feed and high impedance. Bigger injectors allow for more boost safely, which means more power.

You can purchase after market one for around 130$ a piece (You’ll need 6 of them) or you can purchase stock 550cc side feed injectors from a 1193-1995 Mazda RX-7 Twin turbo. They are pretty easy to come by and are priced around 100$ for 2 500’s. Check out RX-7 Club. (www.rx7club.com)
The rest is up to you!

Engine rebuilds, cam, cam gear, etc all coming later!

RB25 Turbo Information

The stock turbo is basically a T-28. Its ceramic based and can’t be boosted to high or you’ll loose a wheel or two. One way to resolve this problem would be to have the stocker rebuilt and ported by a company like Forced Performance (http://www.forcedperformance.net/ this mod isn’t listed on their site. You have to call and talk to them. I believe the upgrade is 795$ and the turbo with supporting mods should take 21lbs and 350-400whp) or buy another T3 style turbo instead.

(www.cheapturbos.com) You have many choices of turbos and may have to go with a different manifold or have a different flange welded on your stock exhaust. Check out Cheap Turbo for great prices on excellent ball bearing Garret turbos! (www.cheapturbos.com)


Hope This Helps Out -- Joshua Tuck

hitokiri_808

the whole thing about the rb25det being ~60-70 pound hevier than the ka can't be true. i have seen on different forums saying the rb25 is 60lbs heavier and 200 lbs heavier elsewhere. here's an image from sport compact car, and night's rb.



look at that and tell me its only 60lbs heavier.

-bigger everything
-2 extra cylinders
-really big trans
-turbo stuff

PROJECTRB240SX

The RB20 is only 65lbs heavier than the KA24E.....

The RB25 has the large tranny and it is more like 180lbs heavier than the KA24DE.

hitokiri_808

RB20 wiring diagram
http://www.meggala.com/r32wiring.zip

RB25 wiring diagram
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~logic/c...b25diagram.jpg

RB25 ECU pinout
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~logic/c...R33_Pinout.pdf

RB26 ECU pinout
http://homepages.tig.com.au/~robs/ecu.htm

lionel

rb25det tranny going with the rb20det motor? anything info somebody want to add to it?

how many electric fans should i get for the rb20det? i have heard one and also heard i need two. which is it?

E Spin

well i could somewhat help you with the fan question. i have chatted to a few with the rb20 about the fan sitatuion. the majority of the 4 said that they reccomend the dual fan Flex-A-Lite Electric 210...you can get it from phase2motortrend.com.


here's the link:
http://www.store.yahoo.com/phase2mot...l210elfan.html


i hope that helped you...

-HyJynX-

Imw ith E spin, dual is better then one

E Spin

another neat thing you can do to get some good cooling to the engine is a V-Mount Intercooler set up that Signal Auto did on their Twin Drift Cars for the D1GP. i was reading about it in a past issue in super street, and they were syaing you get efficient cooling to both the radiator, intercooler, and engine. And if you have an electric fan, you can get even better cooling. i don't know how much it costs to do that set up, but i'm sure it does cost a pretty penny.

NiSmO Knight

iTrader: (1)

One thing I wanted to add to this sticky... A huge question that always popped up in pplz minds is the weight factor. Yes the RB is slightly heavier (~60lbs give or take from the KA) But like Cameron (NightXCZ77) has said before: Battery relocation to the rear (IMO mount the battery dead center above the rear diff) and pick up a carbon fiber hood. weight ratio on his RPS13 was something like 52% front 48% rear? I think that was it... but most likely, battery relocation and CF hood should do the trick for any RB swap on any chassis (S13 or S14).

And to even it more out... Pick up a Kicker Solo Baric 10" sub with custom built box that covers up the housing for the rear diff, 2 amps, plus a 1 farad capacitor cap... and ur weight ratios should now be more of a 50 - 50 weight ratio! (BTW this 50 - 50 thing would be on my S14a... after I do the swap... whenever that is...)

OH and one more thing... for the RB26, u cannot use the RB26 ECU, it will constantly spin the front axels after u swap it into ur 240, for some stupid reason, the RB26 ecu does not work in the 240, u will need to pick up a Super FC controller From Apex International (or Apexi) in order to successfully do an RB26 swap. u will also need to change out the RB26 oil pan to the RB25 oil pan (unless u found someone to do the front axel conversion for dirt cheap!) and some other changes to the RB26 to make it RWD only. But most importantly is the Super FC, without that, ur like the Red S14a at Motorsports Dynamics, jus sittin there collectin dust on a nice RB26... Henry from Motorsports Dynamics here in Sacramento CA told me bout the changes/mods to complete the swap. Any one wanna see picks of the Red RB26 in the S14a? hehe I went snap happy when I got my digital camera... Also got picks of Sac's very first R33 (owned by Henry of Motorsports Dynamics) OH! And I got picks of Hubert Youngs S14 (the blue S14a that crashed at D1 Irwindale this year on the practice run) after me and my friend cut it up for parts! Those parts r goin to his new S14 chassis that we're rebuildin for him and Motorsports. PM or email me for the pics of either the S14a or the R33!