looks clean

 

Thanks for answering my question. Yeah, some people don't feel confortable cutting their $250 loweirng kit (I only have to pay $75 for eibach kits with my employee discount and schwabs) for cosmetic perpouses. It doesn't ride as stiff as an uncut kit, but it's still alot stiffer then stock. I can buy all those components for like $200, so I htink Ima go with that, seems to be a cheap alternative to spendy big brake kits. Does the same thing work for the rear? and where did you get the conversion lines?

 

all the brake parts for ~$200? that's good.

just keep this in mind......if you buy 300ZX brake calipers, they will not come with the hardware for the brake pads....which includes:

4 - Pad Pins ($9.32)
2 - Pad Pin Clips ($11.98)
2 - Spring Clips ($7.06)
1 - Front Brake Hardware Kit ($50.81) includes....brake pad shims, grease, etc....

So that's:

$80 brake hardware (http://www.courtesyparts.com/)
$53 SS brake lines (www.splparts.com)
$60 300ZX EBC Greenstuff Pads (www.tirerack.com)
(~$210 minus $120 core) 300ZX calipers (Autozone)
(~$130 to $200) (300ZX rotors, keep in mind you'll have to get a machine shop redrill) or get KVR xdrilled rotors already drilled for 4lug from www.pdm-racing.com ~$270 shipped)


so, with that in mind.....i probably couldn't do this again for anything less then $400.....but if you can source all these parts for $200, then that's kick ***! i'd do it.

 

thats some awesome stopage on there

 

i recommend doing the rear still.

 

yeah, didn't feel like flipping the bill for the rear......and if i did do the rear, i would definitely have had to change out the master cylinder, further driving up cost.......with a stock KA24DE w/bolt-ons, i'd need alot of help to really go fast enough to warrant getting the rears.....but you're duly noted.....now for that damn CF hood. anyone know where i can get a good quality one?

 

i love your car man i want a coupe so bad...

brakes look good

one more thing is that a stock color ??

 

I only get it so cheep because I have a big discount. I get cost +10%, which means whatever the store buys it for from the wherehouse, I get it for that price plus 10%. However, I will be getting raybestos power slots (slotted rotors) and plain ol raybestos calipers, pads, and raybestos hardware kit and everything else (those little components are a pain in the ***).
I'm also doing a 5 lig conversion using hubs from schwabs and ball joints from schwabs, the only thing I need to worry about are the spindles, which might not be too hard to find, since as far as I understand the spindles from a 4 lug s14 work too.

 

Looks like i just found a new place to get parts!


I'm not sure if you would need S14 4-lug or 5-lug spindles or if there is any difference. but sportcompactcar has a great write up on it....as for the rear, i think you'll be encountering a more difficult install. that's part of the reason i didn't do the rear. not enough payback for the time/money invested.

http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/pr...cc_projsilvia/

and DriftOrDie.....the color is not stock...it's Honda's S2000 Gunmetal Grey w/extra pearl flakes.

 

Nice setup Great work!

 

i have seen a few different types of Z32 brake upgrades such as aluminum and iron (i think) and was wandering which is better, meaning which has more stopping power

 

looks really good man, keep it up

 

lookin good bro, now all you need is a nice motor in there and you're set

 

I bought the aluminums and traded them to a friend who has a 93' NA 300ZX(iron). We split the cost of the calipers.

His setup:

30mm Aluminum calipers
EBC Greenstuff Pads
Brembo X-drilled

My setup:
30mm Iron calipers
EBC Greenstuff Pads
Brembo Slotted
Speedbleeders.



Very comparable feel and same amount of noise when decelerating hard from 85-40.

If you have a choice, I would go with the aluminum for weightloss, but i think they probably stop the same.

Thanks for the comments.

 

don't know, i'm thinking about getting a 90-96 300zx. you think $4000 will get me 280-300hp in the 240?