I believe camber plates give more adjustablity than camber bolts. And no, hood will still close. You want a new adjustable RUCA to adjust the camber settings. As far as the other questions... not sure, so someone else will chime in with soem answers.

 

since twofotisx specifically requested my presence in this thread (lol):

1. Camber plates for the front give you much more adjustment than camber bolts. Camber bolts only give like +/- 1 degree, whereas camber plates allow ALOT more. Also, camber plates incorporate a pillowball mount in the center in place of the factory rubber bushing and flat bearing. When installing camber plates, they go under the shock mount, so they don't interfere with the hood. However, depending on brand, some camber plates are thicker than the stock upper mount they replace - so it might raise the front of your car a little (.25" or so)

2. Yes, RUCA = Rear Upper Control Arm. First of all, you can adust rear camber in the rear using the inside bolt on the stock RUCA - it's a factory adjustment, but it only gives about 1-1.5 degrees of allowance. Just like with camber plates up front, when you install adjustable rear arms, you get a larger camber adjustment range, plus pillowball mounts in place of the factory rubber bushing. There is no rear camber plates for 240SX - if you look at the rear suspension, moving the mounting point of the rear shock from the top will not alter the wheel angle, as opposed to the front where the wheel is directly attached to the shock itself.

3. Well, I have front camber plates (Tein Flex), front camber bolts, rear adjustanle control arms, and (of course) the OEM rear camber bolts. The front camber plates are easy to adjust - loosen 4 bolts up top, and you can change the front camber. For the rear, you have to get under the car and adjust the RUCAs with 2 wrenches, which isn't hard except for the fact that you can't adjust it without getting under there.

As far as what to adjust them to - take your car to a good alignment place, have them set the car to factory specs. Record the settings, then you can play with camber all you want.

 

I have S-Techs and AGX shock and i only got an allingment. i have 1.5 degress or camber up front and 1.7 in the back. no cam bolts or eccentric bushings. it all depends on your car. it really messed up my toe in the back so get an allingment done. i had 1.9 degress of toe in on one side and .25 degrees out on the other. great combo tho

 

S13 FSM spec is 0-1.1 degrees front camber , 0.1-1.1 degrees rear camber. 1.5-1.7 isn't bad as long as you got the toe right, and you rotate the tires frequently. I think it all depends more on the driver and their willingness to maintain their car more than anything

 

its not bad at all on tire wear. i've been using the same Kumho 712 for 3 seasons and have over 50 XXX kms on them. it shows even wear across the whole tire so i'm happy. like Raine said it all depends on your driving style. it is also a good starting point for autocross too

 

sweet, thanks for the info, I wanted to hear l2aine say it because he seems really knowledgable about all things 240. At lets face it he owns snickersgirl's boob. Who the hell else would i ask?

 

I own both ROFL ahaha I can't believe that subject bled over to this thread LOL

 

hey how come i can't find RUCAs for the s13

i know they are on other sites but i cannot find them cheap on ebay ....whats going on?

if anything should i go for pdm's rear camber kit or the RUCAs they have for rear camber

 

If you don't plan on upgrading to coilovers or going lower than 1.5", the the PDM kit might be ehough - but IMO it's kind of pricey for what you get. I'd still go for the RUCAS instead (as for Ebay, give it a few days, they'll show up again in the listings)

 

that was my rear tire after about 1000 miles and some drifting

i bought adjustable RUCA's on ebay for 120$

 

well happen to be I have 1.5 to 2 degree camber at the back and only around 1.5 in the front. I am using the ZEIX 512 with 460 trandware so I guess I will be happy will my current setup

 

IIRC the allowed range from the factory spec is between 1.0-1.3ish... but if your toe settings are corrected, then 1.5 shouldn't wear your tires as bad

 

yea I did made do the alignment and my toe are right

 

col then the only thing you have to worry about is how hard you drive

 

there is none!!...i even checked completed listings

man i saw them a long time ago and now they're gone

well i ordered my kyb agx and s-techs

what else do i need...this is my list so far

springs
shocks
RUCAs
pdm-racing front camber bolts (28$$)


thats it......should i get the toe rods>? or can i adjust it using the factory