Just finished my swap at my school (vocational school) it took me two days, about 7-8 hours of work, i still have some stuff to work out like reverse lights and i have to find out what to do with the a/t and m/t harnesses. the tranny was a little tough going in and ive figured that it was from where i put the pilot bushing in. i think it mushroomed out a little where i hammered it in with a socket, so i just tightened the tranny connecting bolts to draw the cases together. everything was pretty much easy except drilling the holes for the mast cylinger, i had to borrow an air drill from auto body to get them drilled. the car runs fine with the auto ecu.

i was freakin out when i got it finished because it kept popping out of 2nd 4th and reverse. later on i figured out that it was because i positioned the inner shift boot too high and it was keeping the shifter from staying back.

200-250 total with used clutch!! hell ya

 

cool, i go to a vocational school too. except i only go half the day then the rest is normal school.

 

Do you have to push your clutch in to start the car? Mine is a auto to manual but it starts up like an automatic. I was told that the reason it does this is that the clutch switch was bypassed.

 

Ya my class is like that too, I have academics in the morning then i go to auto tech after lunch. but i have two study halls in the morning, so i convinced my lab teacher to let me skip all of my classes to work on my car.

2nd semester i have no more academics and i can sleep in every day!

no i dont have to push in my clutch. but i almost never start a car with my foot off it anyway. i dont mind.

anyone know a good clutch and flywheel combo??

 

good job on the swap, id recommend any name-brand lightweight flywheel along with a stg 2 clutch (im partial to exedy, but any big name-brand would work great)

 

could it be that you you didnt use the manual ecu that you dont have to press the clutch in?

 

that and perhaps the wiring to the little sensor that on the clutch pedal is maybe not connected..who cares

 

Ive noticed that my car idles a little higher with the auto ecu and i figured that it was because the motor needs more fuel to keep the idle higher with the auto trans. could i use a bikirom with the auto ecu?? also i will want to go turbo next summer, is the bikirom really my best bet? if i could get an apexi safc i would, but i understand that there is no ignition timing control.

the front end of my car sits higher now because i think that the autos used stiffer springs in the front to compensate for the heavier trans. i want to get a good strut/lowering spring combo good for the occasional drift, unless i can find some coilovers for <$600.

theres a list of stuff i want to get but it goes into the 5k range. damn theres so much you can do to these cars!!!

 

Bingo, didn't even think about that.

 

Actually even if you were to switch to a manual ecu, you wouldnt have to push in the clutch either.

even if you wanted it, autos dont have the wiring harness to support the clutch start switch.

and the neutral safety was bypassed allowing the car to be started in gear.

I guess if you really wanted it there probably is a way to hook it up, but ive yet to find a reason to go through the trouble.

 

I like it fine the way it is, I just wanted to find out more about why and where it happened. Thanks!