clutch issues: moves at 4k rpm
#1
clutch issues: moves at 4k rpm
used some ebay F1 Stage 2 clutch, adjusted the pushrod pretty far out of the clutch pedal more into the master cylinder to get it to shift. right before my battery died due to charging issues, i was stopped on a small incline, car in 1st with clutch all the way out. would slowly start rolling when rpm's got to 4k rpm, i went into parking lot and am getting tow home. when i was installing clutch disc and pressure plate i had to screw one bolt in, c clamp down the other side a little to be able to put screw in and did that for all 6 bolts, so i think the pressure plate has plenty of clamping for on the disc. you guys think its poor clutch pedal/pushrod adjustment??
my plan for adjusting is back pushrod a good bit into the pedal and out of the master cylinder, let the car idle. clutch in try to shift into 1st then reverse, if its choppy/doesnt go adjust pedal more into master cylinder.
my plan for adjusting is back pushrod a good bit into the pedal and out of the master cylinder, let the car idle. clutch in try to shift into 1st then reverse, if its choppy/doesnt go adjust pedal more into master cylinder.
#3
Re: clutch issues: moves at 4k rpm
Originally posted by jt1583
used some ebay F1 Stage 2 clutch
used some ebay F1 Stage 2 clutch
You would of been better off with an Daiken/EXEDY stage 1.
#5
Originally posted by jt1583
vinnie id like to personally thank you for the helpful input to this thread.
vinnie id like to personally thank you for the helpful input to this thread.
Yeah here is how helpful I'll be.... "Search" and research before you buy the clutch. Me and a few others already took the time to describe the quality of the clutches and what you pay for. Many people have purchased the F1 clutch not only in this forums but in others with the same consistent problems. Almost all ebay clutches are crap if you are trying to save a few bucks, I don't give a crap if it says stage two, it is more like a stage nothing if it doesn't do it's job. Like we all agreed the biggest bang for your buck, is the Daiken/Exedy stage 1. Enough said this question shouldn't of been brought up if you read the thread on clutches that is about 3 months old.
#6
Just because I love your sarcasim I have left you with the thread!!!!!!! Here ya go DICK!!!!!!!
http://www.club240.com/forums/showth...threadid=23746
SEARCH NEXTIME!!!!!!!!!
Just to also let you know most after market clutches will leave you with there break in time instructions consisting of 500 to 1000miles determined weither or not it is organic or semi metalic. If you rev to hard within that break in time you will just be warping out your flywheel and/or damaging the clutch.
http://www.club240.com/forums/showth...threadid=23746
SEARCH NEXTIME!!!!!!!!!
Just to also let you know most after market clutches will leave you with there break in time instructions consisting of 500 to 1000miles determined weither or not it is organic or semi metalic. If you rev to hard within that break in time you will just be warping out your flywheel and/or damaging the clutch.
Last edited by BigVinnie; 09-17-2005 at 01:07 PM.
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